My tacoma audio upgrade

Install looks awesome. You are going to love that Image Dynamics IDQ10" sub. I got one and that little thing can hit.

 

Awesome!How do you like yours??I heard that they hit pretty hard!

 

I thought everything was fairly legit till I saw the caps...

 

Why??They will be hidden,I have not posted any picks of them done yet.Maybe you will change your mind when it'd done.Plus im protecting my tweeters.That's legit to me.

 

I'm just not sure I'm convinced that soldering a cap in series with the tweeter is going to be the best for sound quality. I didn't have to deal with any of that because I used a DSP, but to each his own.

 

Ok i respect that..Hey lets talk..Help me out...What would be the best..I do want to do the best i can.Any knowledge ill take..If it's best to not to do it ill get rid of it..Im not all that experienced but i will take any advice i can.

 

Did you get a crossover with those tweeters? I would think the crossover they come with has everything you need in it. The cap that you soldered on is also going to have an affect on the phase of the audio signal if I recall my circuits properly. I haven't had to do any phasor diagrams or calculations lately, but my instincts tell me that it takes a lot of engineering to get a filter to work just right across different temperatures etc.

Do you have any extra audio channels you can use from the DSP and the amp? If you set your crossover right in the JL tun software the tweeter and the mid bass shouldn't need to worry about any low band waves. You'll just want to filter out some of the high's from the mids and filter out the mid from the tweeter.

 

Yes it did come with a crossover..I'm leaving those out so i can go active..I'm doing 4 channels and 1 sub..I just have rear fill powering from the headunit...The tweeters and the front doors will be powered and the 1 sub...This will be my first time going active....I'm understanding what you are saying now..Good stuff!

 

Ok what I did before I connected any of the speakers was make sure to get the crossover settings correct on my DSP and start with the volume all the way down before I let the speakers take any power. One thing I would also do after getting the crossover set right on the DSP is copy the setting to all your presets so you don't have to worry about accidentally switching and having the wrong settings.

If you configure the DSP correctly you can just get rid of those caps imo. Maybe one other thing if your DSP has a remote out signal I would let the DSP remote signal turn on the amp. So you turn everything on in the right order. Let the head unit turn on the DSP and then let the DSP turn on the amps. Then everything that has amplified outputs has to wait for the DSP to do whatever it likes to do before it asserts the remote on signal.

Here's my setup. It's still a work in progress b/c I'm adding a mono amp but I haven't had time to install. I'm fully active in the front doors and I have coax speakers in the rear doors and I'm powering the factory subwoofer with the bridged output.

 

Oooh cool!! so ill start with all the gains and volume down?Then set the dsp just to get a start so i can get a preset?I looked it just had the remote out...There was no remote in and remote out...just 1 ...Do u have the twk 88 too?? That is pretty cool!

 

I'm using the JL VX800/8i which is an amplified DSP so it's similar to the twk except this device has a built in amplifier.

I just straight disconnected the outputs from the amp and started with the crossover settings & the input levels (You'll also have some adjustments on the amps too). This is going to be your frequency protection for the different speakers. You're going to digitally filter out the frequencies that each speaker shouldn't get. I get everything ready before I send the speakers any signal, turn volume down, turn down gain, configure crossovers, and input levels (Do this for every preset to get you to a base configuration that is safe in all presets for your system). Then when you're ready you can slowly turn up volume/gain & it will be all money.

Your remote in on the twk is the "+12VDC (Switched)" which should come from the radio and then you can send "Remote out" to the other two amplifiers. This way you bring up the radio and it decides when it wants the twk on and then the twk decides when it wants an amp on so all the devices will be booted good ordering (For me this prevented the speaker "pop" when power comes on). I would also consider the valet option and having this preset disconnect all of the routes in the DSP so no audio gets out of the twk (Protect your investment from dumbass mechanics and others).

You can see for now I'm sending the tweeters 2500 hertz and above, the midbass is 110 hertz to 2500 hertz, and the subwoofer is 90 hertz to 35 hertz. This is your protection for the speakers, the digital to analog converters shouldn't violate these parameters so you don't need a crossover or the inline capacitor (because nothing for the cap to filter since the dsp already did the filter). I think you could likely copy my crossover settings for tweeters, midbass and sub to start with because they will be safe for your system, but not optimal.

Here's my build thread which is still in progress. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-full-system-jbl-tear-out.567718/

See the input levels here are 3. At first the amp was too sensitive to volume from the head unit b/c it hurt my ears at like 20% volume so turn down the input level on the twk for that or I guess you can also play with gain on your other two amps.

 

Awesome write up!! Thank u!! I did what u said with the wiring on the dsp and let that come on first..Just got done doing that...I would like to use these settings to help me out if u don't mind...U have the nice amp!!! I wired in the valet like you said as well.

 

Hey no problem. When I got everything I struggled with how little information was out on the web about this JL DSP software so glad to help.

 

Got the carpet done today and grounding point..Please don't be to harsh on me i never messed with carpet to much.

 

Where is the location of your ground point? Is that the grommet for the body spacer bolts?

 

There was a threaded hole by the grommet,I had a 10mm bolt that i had to fit it..is it ok??

 

I think it's ok. It's on the floor in the back corner? Passenger or Driver side? I was just trying to figure out if my truck has that bolt hole.

 

It's in the back on the driver side near the panel..There were a few holes that were threaded..Nothing there so i just used one..Look like a good grounding point...Ill take a better pic.

 

Here it is.

 

I still have no idea where this is. lol..