My tacoma audio upgrade

another pic

 

another pic

 

You have a crossover induced gap between 60Hz and 120Hz. Might wanna get rid of that. Where the low end of your front woofers stop is where your sub should begin. 120Hz is too high for the door woofers IMO as well. Highest I would go is 80Hz, but it really depends on the frequency response of those drivers.

Also, there’s no need to globally delay all the speakers. The idea is to time align all of the closer speakers to how long it takes the furthest one away to get sound to your ear hole, so at least one of them would have zero delay, and the rest would need just enough to match it. Good luck getting that without a pro tuning rig so I recommend just setting all delays to zero.

I’m on phone so I’ll chime in on each pic in an individual post.

I just noticed you have Hertz Audio door speakers. I have them too, I know the passive crossover that comes with those works at 3200Hz, but if you look at the driver specs the tweeter handles down to 2500Hz, so I crossed mine at 3000Hz (I’ll probably end up changing this to 3150Hz). Also, high pass on those woofers should be more like 60-80 because they can take it all day long. I crossed mine at 62Hz because that falls on a normal octave.

Also, after calibrating my amplifier input sensitivity (with no EQ, processing or crossovers active, my tweeter output ended up at -5.0 to get balance with the woofer. I have yet to put a mic on it so I’m sure that will change a little. They sound a smidge hot right now.

 

I'm just getting my VX1000/5i set up today as well! Look forward to all your learnings. One thing that would help is if you could get a screen shot of the entire tuning page. That way we can clearly see which crossover is for which speaker.

In my quest for starting points (I'm a serious novice when it comes to car audio) I found an article on diymobileaudio that had the following starting points for my morels:
"I like, and use, a 6db slope with my tweeters. And, given the location of your tweeters, you will likely get excellent results with such a slope at the high pass crossover frequency Morel specified for the passive crossover. With regard to the midbass/midrange, I suggest you set the low pass at the same frequency as the tweeter's high pass, and use an 18db slope. As far as the high pass for the midbass, if you are using a subwoofer, I suggest setting the high pass at 80Hz, again with an 18db slope, and the subwoofer low pass at either 80 or 70 Hz (I don't recall which frequency below 80 the DRZ allows) with either a 12db or 18db slope. If you are not using a sub, I recommend you set the high pass at 25 Hz with an 18db slope. (For those who have suggested using a 24db slope, the DRZ does NOT offer that option; 18db is the steepest it allows.) I also recommend that you listen to the system with the midbass drivers' phase reversed, and then listen with the sub's phase set to normal and reversed to get the most solid, centered and up front midbass/sub bass presentation. And, you must make sure the EQ on the DRZ is not engaged, redo your time alignment settings (I assume the right midbass/midrange driver will now be the furthest driver, and adjust your gain levels for each driver to get a balanced sound. Set the gain levels on the DRZ crossovers for all the speakers to 0, except for the left tweeter, which I suggest you set to -1 or -2 to start with, due to its close proximity to the driver's seat. The DRZ volume level can be turned up to 0 before it sends a clipped signal to the amps. So turn your amp gains all the way down, turn the DRZ volume level to 0, put on a full range recording with great dynamic range (anything from Sheffield or Chesky meets this criteria), and listen. Turn your amp gains up slowly till you hear distortion, then turn the gains down slightly. This should put you in a good place to begin enjoying your system and to make further improvements, including using the DRZ's Parametric EQ. Read the manual. It's well written, clear and will be your your best friend here. Good luck."

 

These dips on 3 and 6 are insane. You should never kill it that hard even if it is parametric. -5 or -6 is the most hard core you should ever have to go.

 

Duplicate kills on 2 and 3 at 80.7Hz is malpractice. Zero one of these out and soften the other to -5, if it’s even necessary. Soften the 1,101 as well.

Also on EQ 1/2, you have a high pass that eliminates the need to do anything at 30.7Hz. Whoever tuned this doesn’t understand what he is doing.

I saw you say you were about an hour out of Charleston. If you really need it I can help you out. I work in Charleston, live in Aiken.

 

Thank you all!! I will write this down and get to work! Im running a 10" sub and going active..This helps me!I can take more pics.

 

I'm running morel components now..No rear fill.

 

You only had hertz in the rear? Shameful!

 

Don't hit me to hard..lol No i have no rear fill at all. have morels in the front door and morel tweeters.

 

Model number(s)? Should be able to figure out your crossovers if I can look them up.

So I decided to go active front too but rather than forego rear fill I bought a 2CH audio control amplifier for the tweets.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-2300/

 

ok hold on!!

 

Morel 6 1/2 component set 602 4ohm,power 60w,max 120w,sensitivity 94db,freq response 60-22000hz,crossover point 3200hz

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MMAX602/Morel-Maximus-602.html?tp=106

These? Did you remove the passive components attached to the speakers?

 

Yes those are the ones! No i did not,I was told to keep them for protection from something happening to the twk going full range.

 

That being the case makes it complicated. Give me time to look into it. I need to find the actual crossover points before I can recommend anything. When you stack crossovers you create phase issues.

 

If needed i can pull the front door panels and get rid of them.

 

Tons of info from all of you!!! Thank you!!!

 

Yeah, if those are the morels that you installed, then they have an integrated crossover. So going active isn't going to be the same. I have Morel Hybrid 602's that have their separate passive crossovers.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-V6nTbyDbB2l/p_210HYB602/Morel-Hybrid-602.html

Hopefully @dolbytone or someone else can help you with that. I think if it was me, I'd put the hertz back up front running active and I'd think about putting the morel's with integrated crossovers in the rear for fill (or get rid of them, if you want to run active rears or no rears).

 

This is what I recommend for your crossover settings. I also think you should remove the crossover components that came with the speakers. The reason I chose these settings is because comparable Morel speakers are using similar crossovers.



I chose the high pass for the woofers with a steep cut off because the specs for the woofer show 60Hz to 5000Hz and this setting should allow as low of a crossover point as possible, while sending what it can't do to the subwoofer. If you move the high pass for the woofer higher, you'll have a lot of musical bass weighted in the rear where your subwoofer is, and sometimes you can hear instruments move front to back, especially bass guitar. If you hear the woofer straining you can move it up some but I wouldn't go past 80Hz ever. With a natural bass response that isn't overly emphasized it should sound and function fine. DO NOT USE BASS BOOST ON YOUR HEAD UNIT, just bump your sub up a little when if you feel like you need more WOOF.

Use the output level trim on the tweeters to balance them with the woofers. Like I said, mine are set to -5.0 and I feel like they are still a tiny bit hot. Start there and adjust by ear. Remember, you are going for accurate reproduction, not holy shit I just installed 47 tweeters on my dashboard.

As far as EQ settings, just flatten them all. What's in there is unacceptable. Based on what I saw in my truck (granted with Hertz stuff) start your EQ out like this. Live with it for about three songs, and tweak it by ear unless you have an RTA. Make small adjustments over time after listening to a lot of different stuff that you listen to. USE GOOD QUALITY AUDIO FILES or a CD. Do not tune your system using shitty MP3s. CDs are preferrable because you know there's no proprietary EQ applied to the file or device you are using to play it. You can't tweak things based on just one song, it will be small parts of various songs that stick out.



If you ever come in contact with a guy that has a pro tuning rig you can take that opportunity to not only see the actual response of the system, but also dial in the phasing from the crossover settings using the delays. When I tune my system more hard core I will post my delays for you to try out.

Also here's a step I missed at first. Make sure you set your input voltage according to what your head unit is putting out.