My tacoma audio upgrade

wow!!! thank u so much!!!! im going to try this!! my headunit is a pioneer x5800bhs so do i put the voltage for all inputs?Mine says its 4 volt

 

Yeah, set them all to 4V. Also make sure you set up your amps according to the JL guidelines.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374120-Amplifier-Level-Setting-Guide

There are a lot of things you forget when doing this so be sure to follow the 9 Steps without missing anything.
Remember, because you are using the TwK-88 you will not be using filters/crossovers on your amplifiers either, turn them all off.
The test files you need are at the bottom of the page I linked above. Download them and keep a copy available forever.

It looks like you are going for 16.7VAC on your 4 channel amp, and 31.6VAC for your subwoofer amp. Measure both left and right, and set the highest one to the required voltage, mine were about 1/4 volt different between L/R front as well as L/R back.
Instead of using 3/4 volume on my head unit, I set it to 30 out of 33. It's still incredibly loud and there's no distortion when I bury the knob. The lower you go on the gain, the more holy shit you will have at the top end of your stereo, but don't go nuts and set yourself up to smoke anything.

 

thank you!!!!!!

 

just wanted to show what i copied.....thank u all so much!!!

 

Flatten that -6 on your input mixer too. Check all the "To Equalizer" gains and set them to 0. Odds are that was set that way because the input voltage wasn't set up. To set levels on your amps, set up a preset with no crossovers or EQ, but with the correct routing and save it. When you are done setting the amp voltages, restore your preset with all those settings and you're good to give it a listen.

This TuN software is the actual bomb. I love it.

 

i tried to set all to 0 "to equalizer" it said mixers attenuation sum cannot exceed 0 db.

 

Are you summing front and rear inputs? Let me see your input routing...

EDIT - Found it earlier in the thread.



This is nopesauce. What you are doing here is a couple of things. First, you are combining the subwoofer channels with the front L/R in the input, but you already have full range input on L/R and a dedicated subwoofer input. Essentially you are inputting the low frequencies twice to each channel. You want to leave front and subwoofer inputs separated throughout the signal chain. The ability to combine inputs was designed for situations where your inputs are already band limited, and you want to recombine them into a full range signal for processing and setting different crossover points than what you have coming from the radio.

The second thing you are getting here, is running everything through EQ channels 1 and 2, when you could be getting a separate EQ for High (1/2), Low (3/4), and Sub (7/8). Set it up like this so you get more EQ controls, but also it's ready for the future when you add the rear fill channels, because I know you will end up doing that.



Don't forget to adjust your EQ bands accordingly. Tweeters are now on EQ 1/2 and woofers are now on 3/4. You can now have 10 bands for high, 10 bands for low, and 10 bands for sub (unnecessary). If you unlink the pairs, that gives you independent control over left and right as well.



Once you get done doing all that put them Hertz Audio speakers back in. I’m still trying to figure out why you pulled them for Morels.

 

Thank you!!!!

 

any different since im running only one sub?

 

Are you bridging two channels on your amp for that lone woofer feed, or are you running a 1 channel?

 

it's a jl jx mono 500/1 2ohm.....2 channel

 

I think he’s saying it has L/R inputs but it is definitely a mono amp. I looked it up.

I’m not sure what the question actually is here.

 

Man i just listen to it with the settings!!what a difference!!! Thanks everyone!!!!

 

I did like the hertz,The tweeters were nice but the doors were to bass heavy for me...The morels are just smoother for me...I know it may sound insane but i guess it's in what you like.

 

Wow what a difference in sound!! Thank you all!! I got my sub on 7/8 on the twk..Can any of you help just get started with some settings?What would be good a good starting point?Thanks!!!

 

Start with 80Hz Lowpass on a 24db slope. Usually the crossover point aligns the high pass frequency of the mids. That’s a starting point for tonight @dolbytone can get you straightened out after that

 

Thank you!!!

 

May have glanced over but did you say how big the box is looks about 1/2-3/4 cubic feet... also what do you have the box tuned to 30 hz? i'm about to rebuild mine so i can get the amps back there with the subs. and will be going from just over 2 cubic feet ported to about 1.5 sealed...

 

I can measure for u!!..Mr Marv built to box to specs for an
IDQ10 V.4 D4 - Image Dynamics 10"

 

Here's what I ended up with on my crossovers. I definitely feel like 3.5kHz tweeter high pass is better for my speakers, but his as well. I'm with you on 80Hz, but since his response is listed down to 60, I think the 12dB/Octave Linkweitz-Riley would make for a smoother transition to the sub channel without stressing the speaker. I think mine are rated to go to 45Hz or 50Hz which is why I chose 63Hz low pass for sub and high pass for the front doors.



From what I've seen, our trucks like to resonate at and around 125Hz. In fact, I have a total shit show between 100Hz and 400Hz that I'm not sure what to do about. I'm sort of hoping Stinger Roadkill Fast Rings will alleviate the problem. It's worth a shot for $25. I definitely have a lot of KILL on my EQ in that area and I'm still not happy with it. It goes against all my experience to have to be so heavy handed with equalization.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541FA...html?search=stinger_roadkill_rkfr6_fast_rings

Other than that, I'm pretty bright in the 10kHz-16kHz range so I have a fair amount of tweeter kill in my EQ.