My Tacoma just failed state emissions test - Please Help!

This testing is horse shit. I had a truck with no muffler pass theae dumb tests years ago. Its just more.bs to get.your.money.

 

My mustang passes the IL smog test without cats. Not sure why no muffler would fail you though?

 

I don't think anything is wrong with it. According to the report you provided, is says "miles since code clearing=2". OK, you might not know how the codes got cleared, but it looks like they did. Yes, it is typical to FLUNK a emissions test [smog test in CA] if the codes have been cleared recently. I had this happen last year on my wife's 96 RAV4 when I took it in for a smog test as the license sticker was due. The thing was, when I went out to start it to take it in for the smog test, the battery was dead. I went down to the OReilly's store, and quickly bought a battery, replaced it, and then went for the smog test. That's when I found out that disconnecting the battery, clearing the codes, etc, will cause one to flunk the smog test. Who knew? And yes, the smog guy [not a dealer, just a smog test center] told me to drive it for about 100 miles and bring it back for retest. OF course, I went to one of those places that have a "Pass or don't pay" deal, so it didn't cost me any more money to bring it back other than my having to waste more time with it. In this case, since the truck has such low mileage, I am pretty darn sure this is the same case here. Drive it for about 100 miles then do the recheck. If it still fails, then by all means, take it in to the dealer as I think it will still be under emissions warranty.

 

Ohio is very "generous", according to the Ohio ruling class...

New vehicles
New vehicles are exempt for the first four model years. For example, 2013 to 2016 model year vehicles are exempt from testing in 2016.

I once took my Camry in, after replacing an O2 sensor. I drove it almost 200 miles trying to get all of the tests to complete.
One test would not complete. I waited as long as I could and took it in thinking I could bargain the uncompleted test.
The guy passed it and I found out Ohio allows you to pass with one pending test.

 

Any remote start? I've had my remote start on the 2017 cause a reset of the Trip Od A + B and who knows what else. It could be possible some reset happened?

 

Yeah but those are just facts. How dare you.

In order for this thread to grow some real teeth you should join the crowd and offer up some pure bullshit guess.

 

Someone better change the name of this thread to “HALP! I’m Driving in Circles While My Emission Readiness Monitors Re-Set.”

 

I read Lots of good info here. I would like to add that each emission monitor has its own requirement to run. The PCM is looking at things like fuel level, speed, load, ambient air temp, coolant temp, run time. Being a licensed CA smog tech I had many car/trucks come in because they where failed by shops that look for a "PASS" code (all monitors complete) before testing. If the PCM reported a "P1000" the vehicle would usually fail. Newer cars require a "PASS" while older models can pass a smog test with a "P1000" if its only one monitor lacking. I would find out which monitors have not run and drive accordingly. Cat and evap monitors can be the hardest to run. With Ford I had access to books showing all monitor entry/completion requirements. I am now retired but have had a smog license since 1973.

 

Something doesn't seem right, a vehicle won't clear its monitors on its own. Has to be resent via scan tool/code reader or battery get disconnected/go dead.

I didn't see anyone ask if there is anything plugged into the OBD port. Always unplug anything that's in there a few days before emissions test.

 

Thanks - but no remote start - I am going to drive it for 100 miles and then go back. If he says the codes were cleared again the n I thing I need to re check the battery even though i already checked it - 12.6 volts not running - 13.6 running underload. WHo knows, its a mystery. I will drive it but hate seeing that big REJECTION sticker on my truck. I will give an update Tuesday when I go back. They want to keep the truck if ti fails again. I think if it fails I am just going to bring it to Dealership.

Thanks all for responses

 

They flat out told you to drive 100 miles and bring it in, it'l pass. So, do that, 100 miles in one go, bring it to them hot off the road.

They told you what to do..........

 

EXACTLY MY POINT - NOTHING UNPLUGGED AND BATTERY NEVER DISCONNECTED - I WILL JUST DRIVE IT 100 MILES AND GO BACK. HOPE HIS DOESNT HAPPEN EVERY YEAR

 

This is for most states yes

 

I cuss these damn emission test. Occasionally I will do some running in the big cities. When older vehicles and vehicles not running right pass by I understand why the smog laws exist. Especially some of those older diesels. Not all bad, reminds me of the Navy pier in the morning, coffee and diesel fumes.

 

You're welcome!

But as was noted, you can't judge the battery voltage right after shut down. Give it a 1hr rest, then check.

The big deal is watching the battery voltage as you crank the engine. If it drops down around 11v, the ECU will get reset.

Here's the EPA drive cycle that sets the Readiness Codes. It is the fastest way, other than just driving.



If you want more info, get a cheap OBD adapter like this:

$15 Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Car OBD Diagnostic Scan Tool for Android (Incompatible with iOS)

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A

From there you can monitor your Taco for testing. If you get everything shown as Complete and green, the you're ready to test. If you're in good shape, do not shut the Taco off while waiting in the line at the test station!

Note that I just flashed a tune on Sunday. That reset the DTCs and Readiness Codes.

 

Thanks again - I have learned a ton on this site - didnt know about the battery voltage drop when you crank engine - THank you!

 

You're welcome!



Every time you crank, the volts will drop. The problem is that with a marginal battery, they will dip low. There's a point where it'll start almost normally, but the ECU will get reset. Especially on a cold start.

 

New battery, drive 200-250miles (or so to reset ODBII readiness codes), retest, pass.

The emissions tests have added so much complexity. I'm sure our moron state will try figure out a way to emissions test electric cars - lol. "Your electric car emits too much EMF"

 

All that I can tell you is that WA closed all of the testing facilities because the targets set were met, a bit earlier than expected.

 

Actually below 10v is where it will reset give or take (manufacturer depending)

11v too low, never started a vehicle on a cold winters morning lol. Brand new mid to high level battery will hit low to mid 10v range starting an engine when it's cold.

Getting monitors is actually easy. Cold starts let idle for 20 minutes, go drive 40+ for a few minutes (stop lights/signs are ok) then hit highway for about 20 minutes at 60+. That will set all but evap monitor unless your fuel level hit evap cycle request during the drive.