My truck won't stay running after EGR delete kit

But your's is different from any I've ever seen....

......your vacuum hoses and those vac switches are completely different from any I've ever seen before..
Your charcoal canister maybe wired in differently......or moded....dont know....

maybe its a pre 97'ish layout......

Maybe someone with a 96 or 97 will chime in....
I almost know 98-2000 in my sleep....

 

The reason for doing an EGR delete was to clear up the vacuum lines and also to get rid of any vacuum leaks it also has a balance shaft delete with a rebuilt motor at 650 miles on new parts and 330k on the body and a header with no cat .

 

It’s a 1995.5

 

Yeah the silicone hoses were my solution......call me crazy....

Even the fluid hoses are braided silicone.....and pvc line is clear fuel line.....

$48 HPS 5/16" ID blue high temp reinforced silicone heater hose 10 feet roll, Max Working Pressure 85 psi, Max Temperature Rating: 350F, Bend Radius: 1-1/4"

Amazon.com: HPS 5/16" ID blue high temp reinforced silicone heater hose 10 feet roll, Max Working Pressure 85 psi, Max Temperature Rating: 350F, Bend Radius: 1-1/4" : Automotive

 

No 1 vac leaks will be pcv grommet/hose......and brake booster and hose.....
both are insidious and hard to detect....


the missing cat will throw a code......they used to have an 'adaptor' to handle that...

Car CEL Fix O2 Sensor Check Engine Light Eliminator Adapter with Mini CAT (cesdeals.com)


Kudoos on the balance shaft delete.....that eliminates potential bearing failures on something that isnt even needed....

My ultimate way to delete the balance shaft was to dump the 3rz for a new 2rz....
zero regrets........


Those pretty blue hoses are not to make me look like a candy ass.....that's so any deterioration is easily spotted in the future.....

Even the left over pieces make great insulation jackets when split open...

 

There is a vacuum fitting above the rubber hose on the brake booster, is that some thing to be worried about? also, when I look on any forms or diagrams, none of them will match up to my truck and how the configuration of vacuum lines are.

 

That's the check valve....that's what usally goes bad....
not the bladder failure......

there's videos and links on those that have replaced that to get little more life out of the booster...

I believe a new oem one is just south of $500.....
and some of the new trd larger ones are like $900.....

 

A good ideal would be to get a little cheap smoke machine...



these run on 20ml of baby oil.....

ANCEL S300 EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Detector Vacuum Tester Pipe Diagnostic Tool | eBay

 

OK perfect thank you very much, still trying to track down a vacuum hose diagram for the 95. Not getting much luck though. At least not one that shows anything that I need help on lol

 

I ended up buying an open box dura-last one off ebay for $50....

turns out to be there's about 40 or 50 vehicles that use that same exact booster as the one on my 2rz...2wd....
just like the ignition switch....


so auto zones keep em in near stock.....around $200....
they are probably reman oem's....

Napa sells reman oem's too......

 

Oh geez that’s pretty nice sweet deal, still trying to hunt down early model vacuum diagram, or engine bay pictures, these hoses are confusing me.

 

Yeah the 95's to the 97's are special/different......

there are specialist here on those.......

......and thats not me....
.....get back with me when you get a gutless 2rz rwd 98 or newer.....those I can do.....


Those vac hoses on your engine I've never seen them in that configuration...

If I were you.....I'd start a new thread.....try to figure out whats what....
post a bunch of pics....

The guys here love a task...'what's this connector'.......you definitely came to the right place.......damn now it alls.....

PUT 95 - 97 taco in the tittle to catch the right people....

Its same for 2003/2004's .....they have there own special problems.....

 

Thank you for the information you were able to provide Homie. It helped a lot.

 

With all the crzay taco trolls here.....you'd think you'd see a lot of egr deletes....

but only see 2 or 3 a year......

last time there was one about 3 mo ago....his truck would not stay running either.....

When I put in a new engine couple years ago......I was gonna do egr delete...
until I did some research.......

I was concerned to the point I ended buying a brandnew aftermarket egr for $120....
beck/arney I think.......

That with my oversize champion radiator should buy my engine a long cooool life....

gauge has been verifying that....no crimp top....or pink slime for coolant....

 

Deciding to replace it all back to stock… what kinda intake are you running?

 

This is what I went with.....however different intakes wont improve anything on low or mid rpm......really pushing at highway up a grade would you see any difference.

Only caution is on the cold air ones......many way over oil that filter causing problems gumming up the maf sensor wires.......
Most max at only 1.5 oz oil......

If you get a cold air intake...get one that doesn't just suck in hot engine air....





The oem factory one is just fine.....and doesnt set u back $350......