Mystery squeak

It’s most pronounced in Reverse, but I can hear it in 1st, it disappears in 2nd gear. It doesn’t squeal/squeak at all in neutral while rolling forward. And also doesn’t when the clutch is fully depressed while in R. I just greased the fittings on the drive shaft and that didn’t remedy the problem. ::dunno::


The sound only occurs while the truck is moving.

 

Here’s a video: https://youtube.com/shorts/dBJkBiFg4d4?feature=shared

 

Sounds to me like a carrier bearing. Spray some water/lube around the carrier bearing and try it again.

 

just tried that and no bueno

 

Grease the fittings on the drive shaft if they have not been done in a while.

 

I did them all today, as stated.

 

Sorry, missed that!
Mine had a similar squeak for a long time. I have always changed the oil myself and always missed that grease fitting. Once I finally did that the squeak was gone. I always heard it at low speeds. Never noticed reverse more than forward though.

 

Trying setting the ebrake and putting it in reverse or forward and loading up the motor. If noise is still there without the truck moving, it's possible with worn motor mounts there's something in the engine bay rubbing when the motor is torqued and certain way.

Also, depending on how much it bothers you, if your truck is 4wd, you can remove the rear driveline and try it in 4wd, it'll should tell you if it's in the driveline or not.

 

In the center of the driveshaft, the Cardon joint has a small ball bearing dead center between the u-joints with a hard to see/reach zerk fitting. Did you get that one?

 

The noise is def coming from the rear end. If I remove the driveshaft I’m replacing it lol. But yeah, I have 4wd and could get by I guess.

 

I greased 3 on the carrier bearing area. If I’m not mistaken, the Cardon joint (aka) is the slip yoke

 

It's just a process of elimination. Don't drive on the front only. It's also possible the leaf spring bushings could be dry and worn. If you put it in reverse and back up say 40ft, does it make the noise the whole 40ft or just the initial movement and goes away once it got its momentum and rolling?

 

The Cardon joint is the thing in the center of the driveshaft, not the carrier bearing. Some call it a CV joint, both are correct. It has the two U-joints, and then a zerk buried in the center for a small ball and cup bearing that often gets missed. If you got three of them greased, then you most likely got it.

 

I think I should put her on jackstands, put it in reverse and see if the noise occurs. That should reveal a lot.

 

Not necessarily, because when you load up the engine, driveline and rear end, the motor, driveline and rear end will torque/twist a certain way. If it's on jack stands it will not load up the same as if it's in the ground.

 

it makes the noise the whole way, until I hit about 10 mph

 

Money is on a worn carrier bearing, my truck use to make a similar noise only when I back up on my drive way to park in the garage.

 

Update: Noise is gone in reverse, but has moved to driving in 1st, 2nd and slightly into 3rd gear.

 

And it’s usually after I shift into gear and accelerate, after the rpm’s jump and I gain speed, the sound disappears.

 

Greasing the zirks does not guarantee that all of the grease got to everywhere where it needed to go. I would but her in the air and pull the driveshaft and articulate every joint by hand. You will probably find a joint that is stiff. If not, you have eliminated that and you can move onto other diagnostics.

Mystery squeek/shudder...I was brought an F150 4X4 and the owner was posative it needed a transmission due to a shudder on inital take off. As I do on all of my problem vehicles I tell them I will tinker until I find something wrong. Dropped the trans pan, no metal, hardly any clucth material, new filter new fluid, no change. Dropped the drive shaft and had new u joints put in, they were OK at best, a little tight in some spots, but they had 150k on them, $100 for that, no change. Then I looked at the VIN / Truck ID. She had limited slip, pull the rear cover, everything looked OK, new hypoid and friction modifier and the shudder disappeared. Why would the limited slip shudder on inital takeaway when the diff isnt "working", dunno. The customer was happy to pay the bill.