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. I have this Motive system. I have to say I couldn’t get it to work on my kids Acura, but it has a way different cap. Honda’s bleed procedure is funky too if you do it the old fashioned way. I have the Toyota one for my other vehicles bit haven’t used it yet. It should work fine. Can’t wait to try it.

 

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Have the Honda/Acura cap, but no dice. I had to replace the master cylinder, which is why I bought the Motive deal. I just did it the old fashioned way. #2 son working the brake pedal. I will absolutely try again on my Toyotas though.

 

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Joesmith
I had similar problems
I HATE bleeding brakes
Bought hand held pump
Got fronts done NP
Rears……kept getting air after 1/2 gal of brake fluid
Other member here pointed out that there is a bleeder screw on the LSVP
This was news to me
This bleeder should be done b4 both rear corners
GL

 

There's fluid in your cup down at the wheel. How fast are you expecting it to go?

I have the same exact pressure bleeder at work and it takes 5 minutes for it to drop 5 psi

Sometimes the bleeder screw can get clogged with rust

 

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Remember, if you press the brake pedal you're actually blocking the flow of fluid from the reservoir down through the master cyl

Does anything come out if you do it the old fashioned way with a helper pumping the pedal?

Check the bleeder and see if it's clogged

 

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Umm did you drain the reservoir dry in that process?

 

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Its not that simple, you never want to run the master cylinder dry.

Read up on "bench bleeding" and why it's important

 

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You have too much going on. Ditch the vacuum. Hook up the Motiv, attach a catch can, crack the bleeder.

In addition to the bleeder valve at the LSPV, you can disconnect the LSPV arm from the differential side, and use something (string, zip tie, wire tie, etc...) to hold the arm up as high as possible. This will allow the most fluid through the LSPV.

 

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Your brakes aren't really something to not have working properly. I would consider replacing the rubber brake lines. Start with the rear line from the LSPV to the rear axle, this will allow you to check that fluid is getting there. Then crack open each hard line where they meet the wheel cylinders, and make sure you're getting fluid there. And finally, the wheel cylinders themselves. They are fairly easy to replace, especially along side a rear brake job. The rear brakes are kinda a pain to do. Or more rather, it can be a pain to get them dialed in. Most folks over tighten them, and then back them off a bit until they aren't too tight.

Question: Do you set your parking brake?

 

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The rubber rear brake line should be connected under the LSPV and head down to a junction on the axle housing:


Couldn't find a clear image on my phone, so tried to find something on google...

But yes, this:

It also might be the LSPV itself. You can just get one from Rock Auto, no need for OEM on that part.

If you've done the rear shoes, then replacing the wheel cylinders will be a piece of cake, if it comes to that.