N2 Designs 2016-2022 Tacoma 3x OEM FOB Plug n Play Remote Starter Kit (AT & MT) + Smart Module

Savage.

Thank you both for your diligence.

 

You know the one fu**ing time I wasn’t cogniscent of my grammar...

I’m the one that can’t stand “their vs they’re” or “your versus you’re” mistakes and then this guy catches me slippin.

Well played Jeremie. This just means I need to add an extra hour to my nightly every other night sleep and you need to focus on the end goal here; not ensuring the 4G is resolved, but actually making sure my English is proper. I am forever indebted to you sir.

First grade grammar mistake, forum member @jmeitz was kind enough to take time out of his busy day to point it out. Everyone, please send @jmeitz a PM, flood his inbox with thank you notes for his service. You all now can understand and make sense of what I was saying above because “Me and Jeremie” wasn’t very clear to many as much as “Jeremie and I” is now.

 

Woke up this morning with my CL app showing greyed status. It was working perfectly up until this point. Hopefully they get it resolved quickly.

 

Noticed the same thing

 

My car controls app is doing the same

 

Change your protocol and leave it for a few minutes and then switch it back

 

Or before doing that, click on GPS, even if it shows it hunting (magnifying glass over earth) then after a two seconds go back to the command screen and give it a second to see if “it wakes up” easier than the protocol change hack.

 

Nothing for me either. Even after switching protocols.

 

I guess they are really close to if not a reboot and retake on the fix if the manufacturer is rebooting their servers for a grand finale! Fingers crossed or else @jmeitz is going to bitch their ears out tomorrow yet again! I'll probably back him up with another follow up annoying call...just for the record I'm running a 3G unit on a DEI

$48 Directed DB3 All-in-One Door Lock & Override Module, Black

Directed DB3 (same hardware 12V Solutions provides PTS customers) and I'm seeing the same thing. This is NOT a 4G thing. I'd like to say that this is not the norm. This hardware is flawless and the amount of $hit we've all ran into the past month or so has been something that once solved, we'll never look back. Needless to say, it's not your hardware, rest assured consider I'm seeing it on my 3G with a different remote starter...did this to be sure it's servers refreshing. I pinged @jmeitz last night, he saw the same. This is a guy that has access to anything he wants to use as well, so he and I (hows that for grammar @jmeitz ) are in this with you guys, we're not above it. On the front lines with our soldiers too leading the way to resolution. I don't use garbage hardware personally, so something like this on a consistent basis is not something I would use or promote, but it's just that, it's NEVER the case, so we appreciate all your patience gentlemen, we'll have it squared away one way or another. I have a back up plan for you all! (It will cost me all my profit margin, but whatever the cost, this is the nature of the beast at this point), just hope I don't HAVE to pull this last ditch resort, so I would just ask for a little more patience. The investment you all made in the hardware HAS NOT GONE UNOTICED and I'M STILL HERE, AND GOING NO WHERE, so rest assured I'm not leaving anyone behind until every one last of you is happy!

 

After making the post it would randomly work for small amounts of time until around 10PM EST on Sunday where since then it has been working fine for me. Hopefully that continues

 

They (and we) are still working on it. No one has been forgotten.

I have a Plan B if you don't want to wait for the factory over the air update fix, which I would give them another week or so to roll out, so this Plan B oiption goes into effect only after midnight, on Tuesday February 12th.

Plan B involves you FIRST PM'ing ME after the date I've set for the factory over the air update deadline above. Then you will a get detailed RMA#.

You will the ship me your REMOTE STARTER (NOT SMART UNIT) to me, I REPEAT NOT THE SMART UNIT. This is an "N2 I'm not on the factory's clock take matters into my own hands because we've got to move on with our lives" fix.

You'll just have to cover shipping it to me (INITIALLY, KEEP READING), it's not much as it's a really tiny unit. It weighs 1.7 ounces (0.11 lbs).

Bubble wrap the crap out of it, and put it in a VERY WELL BUBBLE PADDED PACKED, FOAM PEANUTS, CRUMBLED NEWS PAPER/ADS/JUNK MAIL, ETC to fill in the gaps within the package.

Write Fragile on it with a Sharpie.

Use the USPS Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Box 5-3/8" x 8-5/8" x 1-5/8 found at the Post Office (for Free). You might want to pick one up and take home first to pack then drop off the next day as you can avoid the lines by creating the label online via USPS's website, then select the above option, pay and print the label. It costs about $7.90, or if you use your own box, $8-$10; don't insure.

DO NOT PUT IN AN ENVELOPE OR PADDED ENVELOPE I DON'T CARE HOW WELL YOU'VE PADDED. I AM NOT ASKING YOU TO PAY FOR INSURANCE, SO MAKING SURE IT's NOT SMASHED IS A HIGH PRIORITY HERE. BOX ONLY.

Give me the tracking once you do.

Again, the weight is 1.7 ounces (0.11 lbs). USPS likes whole numbers if you do it online, so select oz (ounce for units) and put "2". This doesn't really matter if you're using the flat rate box because "if it fits, it ships" is their lame motto. It matters if you use your own package.

I will then ship it back to you, Priority 1-3 days, and will include a $5 inside to help cover partial shipment expenses you've incurred. So the fee here for you to go this route out of your pocket is the difference ($3-$5). Why am I doing this way? Time. Return label requests take time. Individuals sending it in, saves me time, plus I can't sit here and assume what package you will use, and print a label accordingly, I will be billed MASSIVELY MORE for a label that wasn't used on packaging it was intended for. I also can't leave it up to individuals to select shipping rates with the expectation of full reimbursement, so if you pay $37 for overnight, you didn't pay attention or aren't caring enough to be economical for me! This method makes sure you care about getting the lowest rate after all I've said here.

I'll spruce up your unit to a FW that was just released that @jmeitz has tested to be solid for about a week now since it's release (although it's not the remote starter's responsibility to be resolving this, there are a few unknowns as to why this is the case because 3G units have worked flawlessly on all your latest FW).

This is NOT a FW rollback.

This is NOT an offer for everyone, if yours works, don't mess with it. You're set for life. You start touching it, you're really asking for problems. Also, being gray once in a while is normal, at least during these trying times. My 3G even has been doing it, so I can tell the factory is really doing some testing. If yours works, and you're only wanting to update for no real reason, then you will be charged shipping to and from N2, and a fee for labor. If this isn't an issue to you, it isn't to me. We can do it, but we're trying to address those in real need first, which is why this rule applies.

Units that have been intermittent can be seen on the back end (i.e. poor signal reception is not our responsibility) vs. units that have gone dark. They throw up different codes, it can be seen by the factory. This is why before you send anything in, you will provide me the 16 digit code on your smart device (also found on the small sticker you might've placed on your doorjamb, or in your app settings) so that I can verify validity of said experience. Unfortunately, I will not simply go off of word. No exceptions. Which means the SMALL few with technical difficulties will not have anything to worry about. I've been and will always be upfront and honest with all, I hope to get the same back, but can't assume this for anyone but myself. This is the world we live in. Sorry.

 

Big shout out to the folks at N2 for a quality product that they got to me super quick. I ordered Tuesday and it was in my mailbox Thursday!

Just wanted to share a little bit about my installation experience that could be helpful to others who may find themselves in the same situation. The installation of the push button remote start unit went great, there's little margin for error on that part. The installation and programming of the smart phone module seemed to work but then showed some strange symptoms while using the CL6 app (and MyCar):

• I connected and programmed the module twice, the first time didn't give me solid red and green leds, second try did
• I logged into the account and added my serial number then released it from test mode
• The app appeared to be working - showed green connection status and green battery voltage
• None of the inputs in the app would affect the truck, trying to lock would turn the button green and briefly say that it was locked, then revert to saying unlocked. It was the same with starting. Tapping the start button made it think, turn green, briefly show a shut off countdown, then disappear
• Oddly enough, the app did correctly display the truck status. If I locked or unlocked it with the remote/handle, it would change in the app

After confirming the protocol was right (Fortin) then forcing it to reinitialize a different protocol and back to Fortin, it still was showing the same symptoms. I also unplugged the module itself for a solid hour and reconnected to try and get it to reinitialize, to no avail.

What I ended up doing that worked: Went back to the programming step, realized that when you power up the smart phone module, it takes a few seconds to come online and display the solid leds. This time I waited longer and watched for it to stop blinking (probably rushed in the first couple tries), then proceeded with the programming to the remote start unit and this resulted in a successful connection. If I was paying better attention to the instruction video from Audio Solutions, he did mention the leds prior to programming the "brain".

TL/DR: If you end up having your app connect and show status but not physically control the starter/locks, try going back to smart module hook-up step. Power it on, but wait a minute or so until it stops blinking, then do the programming steps.

Overall I am extremely pleased with this experience and will be referring all of my friends/family to N2. I'm not upset about the extra time spent working on this, it wouldn't be fun if it was easy! (Plus, more install time just means more beer drinkin time)

 

Glad you got it, that’s what gets folks, not waiting for a minute for the red and geeen to go solid before starting. Enjoy and have a beer for me!

 

Jay this is off topic... can delete and ask in a different format if you'd like.

Person I know is looking for a 2007 Ford Escape remote start, you got anything?

 

Just needed some clarification. Wanted to make sure the connector with the B sticker plugs into the ECU. Thick part of the harness with A sticker connector just gets tucked away. The Fortin module will have one terminal (white with 2 pins) open.

 

I just installed mine and it is semi successful, and I have every confidence whatever the problem is can be resolved.

The install went exactly as the instructions indicated, the LEDs behaved as described and there were no issues that I saw. With the sequence in hand I ran through it as written and it only worked once. On about the 3rd try it remained running after turning it to the off position, it locked and shut off, and started after three presses on the key.

Other than that one attempt, each time I try it I get roughly the same result. I come to a stop, brake pedal depressed, shifter to neutral and release clutch, pull the parking brake up, release brake pedal and turn the key to OFF. Once every few attempts it will shudder like it was trying to run when turned to the OFF position. Most of the time the engine stops immediately and is followed by a "spasm" of dash lights, relays clicking, and I have noticed a "door ajar" alert several times while the doors are solidly closed. The engine dies and none of the remote start functionality works the alarm and locking function seems to behave normally after that and the truck starts and runs normally.

This is a 2019 Tacoma TRD Sport, manual trans, 10 days old and no other mods, no abnormal behavior was seen prior to the remote start install.

 

Just installed on a 2016 A/T. Works exactly as expected. It wa installed in my dad’s truck. He wanted a way to keep his truck locked while “puffing” (as they call it in Colorado). During winters it gets cold and many people warm up their cars before driving off. There has been an up-tick if cars getting stolen. This cool remote start device provides a great workaround to this problem. The truck stays locked while being started remotely. Fantastic!

 

Try this.....put it in reservation mode the way you have been (neutral, hand brake, foot brake) then turn it to off and take the key out (should still be running) then get out, shut the door, AND DON’T DO ANYTHING ELSE (meaning don’t hit the lock button on your fob after the truck automatically jiggles the lock)....the truck will unlock (not lock) after about 2sec and then maybe 10sec after that, it’ll lock itself....I had problems intially with it not “taking” the reservation mode and not starting with the 3x clicks on the remote and even sometimes the alarm would go off when the truck started. Chalked it up to mostly timing of the 3x clicks.....as soon as I stopped locking it myself after I’d shut the door (whether before or after it jiggled the lock itself) I’ve had no problems. Works perfect now.

If that doesn’t work, check your TPMS connections and Clutch-Start-Cancel connection (gotta have a real good bite). Some guys had issues with those that hung them up

 

Correct.

 

You know the saying "there always that one guy"? Yeah, that's me. Jimmy is such and outstanding businessman that we tried 3 different times before I threw in the towel.
1. Fortin Module was bricked (just a red light upon plug-in), Sent back and replaced.
2. Truck wouldn't start, wouldn't go into reservation mode. Was on phone with Jimmy for an hour checking and rechecking connections and actions. Couldn't figure out what the issue was and we chalked it up to another module issue. Sent back and replaced.
3. Truck would start and die. So I finally got it to go into res mode, shutdown and lock itself and when pressing 3x it would go thru start up and actually start the truck but immediately die out. It would flash a "door ajar" sometimes and other times the horn would sound as it started and then die out. It was a multiplicity of sins so to speak. On this round Jimmy called and we walked thru all the wiring and harness and he actually sent his programming module for the fortin so I could get all the hysteresis and codes trying several different set ups and settings to no avail.

Jimmy sent all of these on his dime and we transferred a lot of information back and forth and he was professional through all of it, never pointing blame or assuming anything. After the second time most businesses would have just told me to pound sand and I was the issue, he took it as a personal challenge to figure the problem out. How many business would send the programming system for a proprietary module? Not many.
In the end I told Jimmy I think my truck is the issue and there has to be something I need to figure out, if it's a transient ground issue or something added on causing the issue I need to figure it out before I try again. So this is a yuge shout-out to Jimmy for his time, effort and business practices in trying to get this jabroni an auto-start. Once I find the issue I guarantee I will be getting with him to try again.