Naive snow driving questions

OK a couple of questions. I am no stranger to snow or trucks or AWD/4WD, but I am wondering how some of the features might be used for slippery driving.

I am running stock tires. They seem aggressive enough to me to get me through the winter. I did have Blizzaks for my WRX, but most of my 30+ years in the Midwest I have gotten by with FWD and all-weather tires.

Obviously 2WD is not ideal given the weight distribution. I will probably throw ~300 lbs of sand bags in the back when we get some serious snow. If there’s a lot of snow 4WD is indicated.

In highway driving, do you stay in 2WD most of the time or 4WD? I recall running my Avalanche in 4WD even at 60 mph or so.

If driving in 2WD, do you turn on auto-LSD (turn off VSC)? I’ve noticed it slips easily on hills with water or light snow and ice.

Should A-TRAC be engaged and under what conditions? On hills or deep snow if stuck? The thread linked below suggests turning on whenever in 4LO.

Is there a situation for engaging the rear locker? I assume if stuck and using 4LO but otherwise not?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/is-a-rear-locker-worth-it.435488/

Also some good info here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-trac-trac-auto-lsd-explained-easy-to-understand-i-hope.70551/

Any snow driving tips regarding the Taco features would be appreciated. Thanks.

(Oh I know the basics—I have never slid off road nor gotten stuck even on hills and in gnarly weather.)

 

I don’t add any weight to my truck (DCSB)

On the highway 2wd unless the conditions are pretty bad then I’ll flip to 4wd

I’ll occasionally flip to auto lsd so I can get more wheel spin to get out of parking lots etc

you can only use ATRAC and the locker in 4lo. If I’m in 4lo I almost always have ATRAC on.

I don’t recall a time I’ve ever used 4lo in the winter time.

 

On the fly 4hi and good tires is all I need!

 

I stay in 4hi on the highway if the roads are snowed up and slippery. Typically once the road I'm on turns clear I turn back to 2wd highway or street.

 

I run with a few hundred extra pounds on the truck (a lot of that is armor). I also slow down.

 

You can drive faster than 60 mph in 4HI, just make sure you switch from 2HI to 4HI when below that speed. You probably shouldn't be going faster than 60 though if conditions are bad enough to be in 4WD.

4LO and locking the rear are only for when you are actually stuck or going below 5-10 mph.

I had a DCSB and usually just shoveled snow into my bed when I was clearing the driveway anyway and never had any problems.

Matt

 

You can shift from 2hi to 4hi at speed. I will double check my manual but 72 kms rings a bell for me. I shifted several times at 60kms or so this morning on the way to work. ( no snow, heavy rain, just exercising the 4x4 system. )

In the snow last year, I drove in 2wd for the most part with no weight in the snow, only engaging 4wd for fun and to try it out.

 

Short version.

Your 4X4 vehicle will help get you moving, or up inclines when roads are covered by 2"-6" of snow. Once moving and on level ground it is more of a negative than a help. If you're trying to get up an incline, yes. If the snow is more than 6" deep and the roads have not been plowed, yes. Otherwise only use when necessary to get moving. AWD is a completely different system that works BETTER than 4X4 in snow and is fine to use all the time on any road surface.

If it is safe to drive over 30-35 mph then you don't need 4X4. Stopping is the real challenge and 4X4 doesn't help with that. 4X4 is not the same as AWD. When cornering all 4 wheels take a different path and need to turn at different speeds. AWD allows that to happen. In 4X4 the transfer case tries to force all 4 wheels to turn at the same speed. When making a turn at an intersection the inside wheels WILL slip and spin in 4X4, but not with an AWD vehicle. At slow speeds that spin won't hurt anything, but if your driving at faster speeds in 4X4 you are MORE likely to spin out than you would if you were in 4X2.

The same applies to the locking rear diff. It should only be used to help get you moving when you are in a situation where one rear wheel is on solid ground with good traction and the other has little or no traction. The way the rear axle is designed it naturally sends power only to the wheel with no traction. Locking the axle sends power to both and will get you moving. It should be turned off ASAP after you are underway. A locking diff, as well as older limited slip axles, are a disadvantage in snow otherwise. If you are driving and ONE rear wheel begins to spin you will still continue in a straight line, or if cornering still continue on your path. But if both rear wheels start spinning your rear bumper will try to pass our front bumper and you'll end up in the ditch before you can react.

Lo range won't help anything, in fact it is the opposite approach you need to take. You want LESS torque getting to the wheels, not more. To prevent wheel spin in snow/ice leave the truck in hi range and manually put the transmission in 2nd gear. This is the best way to prevent wheel spin when trying to get started on a slippery surface.

Lo range lowers your overall gear ratio by almost 3X what you have in hi range. That is great for pulling heavier loads such as when pulling another stranded vehicle out of a ditch. It helps you creep along very slowly in rugged terrain and will help hold you back when going down steep hills off road. It does absolutely nothing to help get you unstuck in mud or snow.

 

If you have to use 4wd at highway speeds, then there's way too much snow to be going that fast. Remember you have to brake too, without fish tailing.

 

You'll be fine and you'll drive your Taco safely in the snow based on the experience you already have. It's a great winter vehicle but the handling will be much different than your WRX.

IMO weight distribution, tire choice, and driving skills are all important. Depending on conditions, 4wd may be a good choice.

The Taco has a multitude of traction control systems. In my experience, it's best to start in the default configuration and change it only when you need to based on conditions.

Most of my winter driving is in 2 wheel drive. I use 4wd Hi on slippery roads. I sometimes use 4x4 Low with the locker and chains on my driveway, which sometimes gets up to 2 feet of snow in storms. Try that in a WRX.

 

Thanks for replies - you guys are reinforcing my understanding of the driving modes.

I seem to recall the manual stating to switch into 4HI at 45 mph or less. Of course if it’s that snowy one shouldn’t be driving fast, but there can be a multitude of conditions on the highways in the upper Midwest where I drive a lot.

I hope I don’t have to deal with 2 feet of snow in my driveway in Omaha LOL. The WRX was an absolute blast in the snow. Admittedly ground clearance not great, but both reliable and easy to have fun with. Outback also superb.

Our old Avalanche was the best I’ve driven in bad conditions. Once I had to drive to work about 15 miles away and must have passed 30-40 cars in the ditch. The sense of security with that vehicle in 4HI was amazing.

 

You get in and drive. Don't overthink. If it gets too slick for 2WD, turn the switch to 4HI. All the electronics and nannies still work and will keep you safe. Remember 4LO will simply give you more torque.
The automatic systems, VSC, ABS, ATRAC, etc will be on and will help. The only time you should turn off anything on slick roads is if you are stopped on a slick hill and have to get moving. Turn off VSC til you get going.
For donuts, turn it all off lol.

 

It's less than 60 mph..

 

Yup, I had a 2008 Silverado that was awesome in the snow. The Chevys also have the extra AUTO option between 2hi and 4hi which I miss more than anything. That setting was perfect for light snow or rain. Then again I had hankook ipikes so I barely had trouble in 2hi.