Nate's build

^^ What he said. They do require cutting into your floor boards. So you might as well do it once and be done with it. But if you were to choose one to do first, I'd say go twin stick followed by taco box.


Awesome thanks! I know kind of odd question but cost of both cases is a little high. Do like the sound of it rather then re gearing everything. The additional selectable options is nice.

 

You still need to regear. You're not gonna run the crawler driving around town and the fj case is no different than stock other than it is manual rather than electronic.

 

You don't know what you're talking about what a twin stick or a taco box is. Especially for a 2nd gen. We like to charge a lot for a small fee

 

probably shouldnt have commented on my phone while doing something else on this one... I wasn't meaning "o im gonna throw it in 2wd low and just put around", but like i can have a more highway friendly ratio (4.10s for 33" tires or 4.56s on 35s verse 4.88 for example) , but then have a lower transfer case ratio along with the crawl box for really slow crawling.

basically i am saying it appears to have a little more options and fine tuning (high/low/lowlow) versus just dropping in a lower ratio ring and pinon. But yes thank you for the help on pointing out i dont know what i am talking about, cause yes i dont because i dont have a FJ case or Crawl box obviously or i wouldnt be asking the question.

 

there are many different options for sure. High, t-case low, crawler (4.7) low, and compound low

 

Thanks Nate! Def something i would want to add someday. Always enjoy seeing your build pop up. Sick ass rig

 

When I first had my Crawler installed, it's the prototype for the 2nd gens, i still had my electronic t case. Ran that for about a year before the actuator gave up and my trip to Australia with Marlin showed me I could put an FJ Case in my truck.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd still put the crawler in first if money was tight. It gives you WAY more options than putting in the FJ case and can turn your Saturday bounce and bang wheeling trip into a controlled fun time.

 

Thanks for the insight on it. I know it saves from cutting up the floor twice but just didnt know if you can bolt the box up to the stock T-Case. I like doing a few things at time since it will keep down on trouble shooting if something goes wrong or if the dash lights up like a Christmas Tree

Also your SAS 2nd Gens are total Bad Ass nice work!

 

Thank you and your very welcome.

 

Okay, this next part isn't very exciting but I'm trying to get caught up on this build. A bunch of wiring stuff which includes tearing your interior out. Some of it may be out of order so bear with me.

I really hate that you can't charge accessories when the truck is off. I made one of my outlets full time hot which accomplished two things, one: I can now have stuff charge/run when the truck is off and two: I used the existing wire as my keyed 12V signal to trip my relay and power a "keyed 12V" fuse block separate from my Blue Sea block. Simply take it out. I stuck my finger in the hole, pushed down to get traction on it then pulled out.


Unplugged and what it looks like


That pink wire tapped into the green 12V+ is my signal back to the relay


Blade connecters for constant power


Plugged in and spliced



Messy stuff


The route things were ran. Along the passenger side floor


It was all wrapped up with weave loom




This next part was me trying to find the signal from my backup camera to be the signal in to the relay for my auxiliary reverse lights. The lights are hooked up to a three position switch which is wired for auto/off/on. Once I found the correct wire, I just tapped into it.

This is the plug coming from overhead and down to the rear view mirror with build in rear view camera. One side.


The other side.


Finding the right wires by sticking these in there and testing with a multimeter


Tap into the correct wire for signal when in reverse




This next one took a while to figure out. I wanted to have my overhead switches connected to the same dimmer switch as the rest of the dash/console lights.


A bunch of different hot and grounds going through this switch. Used a multimeter and a test switch to find the right wires.


These are the two you need that will control the dimming function


Ended up removing a bunch of dash pieces to work on these wires. If you plan on doing ANY of this, you'll be good at removing interior panels in no time.




Like everything else, wrapped up the wires then ran up the A pillar. Make sure not to interfere with the air bags when running lines through there. Ran the dimmer switch wires and some of the ML-ACR wires up there.




Mostly finished product. Still more wires to be ran underneath and some figuring out certain switches. Some of these faces will get swapped out and repurposed








Next I utilized an existing hole in the firewall to run some wire for a light harness. Took the plug out then protected the edge to not strip the wire.






Also tested some bed lights before install






Bed lights also connected to a 3 position switch located over head and one switch in the bed for easy access while back there.



That's all for now. I'll try and get more updates flowing soon.

 

Damn you've been busy. That's some great ideas. I definitely gonna copy some of these mods if u don't mind.

 

Heck yeah man. Knock yourself out! It took me a while to figure out all the pin outs and tried to snap a photo of which wires were used for anyone else wanting to do it. If you have any questions on how it was wired up just let me know and I can help you out with that. I did all this a few months back but I remember most of it.

Up in the overhead mirror harness there is also a keyed 12V+ wire that can be used to run a radar detector for those that want it tucked up under the mirror without having the power plug hanging down. Either spliced in or used to signal a relay and/or switch.

 

Lots of work, but it looks great!!! Too many switches!!!!

 

Yeah that is some amazing electrical and wiring work.

I'd love to be able to rip out my interior and wire up everything at once like that

 

Awesome work Devil Dog!

 

Thanks guys! It's definitely a lot of work, but worth it.

Thanks bro. Your truck has come a long way too. Are you still in? If so, are you at Kaneohe?

 

Nah...I'm retired now, but still working for the Gov't... Living the Aloha life!...

 

dude....... crazy sick access cab!! Were the 35's worth all the pain you went through. I am on 255/85r16s now and am contemplating if i want to go to 35s. It will mean regearing, lockers, fender trimming, CMC, BFH, spacers, etc. Was it worth all that?

 

Right on! I was stationed out there. It's a wonderful place to be.

Thanks man! It was all worth it to me. I know it's a lot of work to fit them, but I enjoy working on projects and making progress with a build. I've made it exactly what I want it to be. Now, if I were to be able to go back and do it all over again, I would have just got a base model tacoma and gone straight to a solid axle from the get go with at least 37's.

 

^I'm guessing this is what happens when you spend time with Wyatt. His Beast build is my all time favorite.