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Nathan's Long Travel Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds' started by Conman117, Apr 29, 2012.

  1. Jul 7, 2012 at 11:53 AM
    #21
    theduck911

    theduck911 Max's Canadian Twin

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    Interesting, starting off with a bare frame is definitely a nice way to go about it :thumbsup:
     
  2. Jul 7, 2012 at 11:53 AM
    #22
    stephen11ty7

    stephen11ty7 Well-Known Member

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  3. Jul 7, 2012 at 12:25 PM
    #23
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    I think I'm on to a new build. You take your box and put it in front of your cab, and then put all your parts into your box. Also if you put your engine and transmission in front of all that, it seems to work better. I think this is gonna take off pretty soon.:p

    [​IMG]

    I don't know how it will ride though.
     
  4. Jul 9, 2012 at 6:58 PM
    #24
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    More work.

    Rear axle setup is coming along.

    [​IMG]

    New cross-members installed. The boxed frame is easier to see in these pics too.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Pretty happy with where it sits right now. I don't know what the ride height will be like, but it looks ok. Still have to cycle my leafs to make sure my shackles are set up right.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jul 9, 2012 at 7:10 PM
    #25
    taco52

    taco52 01 5 speed

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    Looks really good.
     
  6. Jul 9, 2012 at 7:21 PM
    #26
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Thanks. I should have a couple days straight of truck only work, so I should make some decent headway. Maybe a rolling frame by the weekend. Hopefully the weather stays nice for painting.
     
  7. Jul 9, 2012 at 7:23 PM
    #27
    theduck911

    theduck911 Max's Canadian Twin

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    Looking good, Going with all Giant equipment I see, might want to look into gusseting their shackles as quite a few members on here have had issues with them bending (not shit talking, just looking out :cool:)

    As long as the distance between the eye of the spring hanger and the top shackle pivot is 52.5" (assuming a 12" shackle) it should cycle just fine:thumbsup:
     
  8. Jul 9, 2012 at 7:32 PM
    #28
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Ok. Thanks for the heads up. So just add an extra plate on the shackle? And please, anyone that has ANYTHING to say that will help my build, PLEASE DO SO:) I dont want to be 6 months down the road and have something go wrong and someone pipes up, "oh well you should have done this." Any suggestions/tips are very welcome. And yes, I triple measured the 52.5":cool:
     
  9. Jul 9, 2012 at 7:37 PM
    #29
    theduck911

    theduck911 Max's Canadian Twin

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    Two strip welded 90 degrees (spaced out accordingly) to the sides of the shackles with a cut tube welded around each of the bolt holes, this should add plenty of rigidity without over complicating it. Be careful not to weld to much on one side as to warp the shackles (do one piece at a time rotating sides)

    Trying to find a picture of what I'm talking about.
     
  10. Jul 9, 2012 at 7:54 PM
    #30
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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  11. Jul 9, 2012 at 8:14 PM
    #31
    theduck911

    theduck911 Max's Canadian Twin

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    That's exactly what I'm talking about, then you'll never have to worry about them bending :cool:
     
  12. Jul 9, 2012 at 8:38 PM
    #32
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nice. I'll probably do that up tomorrow. Anybody have recommendations on pinion angle of the rear axle?
     
  13. Jul 10, 2012 at 7:59 PM
    #33
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Sandblasted the new pieces and welds. Paint tomorrow, then I can actually start putting things back on. :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    AAAAAWWW YEAH
     
  14. Jul 10, 2012 at 8:05 PM
    #34
    theduck911

    theduck911 Max's Canadian Twin

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    What are you using as a frame coating?
     
  15. Jul 10, 2012 at 8:12 PM
    #35
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist

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    Sorry I just saw this...considering you're going for paint tomorrow. Glad to see you've done your research. Looking fantastic so far.

    However....since you're down to the frame, now is a good time to reinforce the motor mount perches. They are weak and its a lot easier to add material with no engine in the way. There's a couple routes you can go. You can either just wrap/gusset the shit out of them like cr250jumper did, or there's a guy on TTORA that sells whole new mounts that are 3/16th plate instead of sheet metal. Requires cutting the old ones off and welding the new ones in.

    Oh...and subbed for future fapping. :D

    Also I'm not sure what your grand plans are for offroading, but if you plan on flexing that rear axle, the giant shackles are kind of annoying. They end up scraping the frame when flexing. I had to grind down my frame some and they still rub. Eventually I gave up and got the TC shackles
     
  16. Jul 10, 2012 at 8:13 PM
    #36
    nelson18matt

    nelson18matt Well-Known Member

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    hot damn! how have i missed this?

    you're going to be more than fine, but if i had my frame down to bare metal like that i would have plated every last square inch.

    it's kinda the popular thing to do around here right now if you have a 1st gen...you might want to hold off putting the truck back together so you can swap the motor mounts out to solid mounts and the tranny mount too.

    if you're a 5 speed, 4x innovations has a tranny mount, otherwise you can box the stock tranny mount like this.

    you can pick up the solid motor mounts from trail gear

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jul 10, 2012 at 8:14 PM
    #37
    nelson18matt

    nelson18matt Well-Known Member

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    holy shit! i was 1 min late... lol

    great minds...
     
  18. Jul 10, 2012 at 8:25 PM
    #38
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist

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    :quickdraw:

    But yes...i learned from the master

    There's no cookie cutter number for pinion angle as it really depends on your travel numbers. Hell even adding a carrier bearing drop can effect your final pinion angle, so make sure you know what you're going to run before you weld it up.
    This is a good read to get you started: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
     
  19. Jul 10, 2012 at 10:24 PM
    #39
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nathan
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    Ok, about the motor mounts. First off, are solid mounts any good for a DD? What do they do exactly?
    Because if I go solid then I may as well just cut mine off and make new ones that go from the frame right to the motor.
    And my grand plans for off-roading are inspired by you guys. Anything and everything. Though not for a year or two, still have to pay for school too.:D

    Why is 5-speed (which I have) different? And again pros/cons of solid mounts?
    It would be fun to plate more but I really want to drive my truck this year too;)

    I'll be using POR 15, hence all the blasting. Apparently it chips off smooth metal in bash-able zones. And a top coat of regular black paint.

    Also, since I'm in Canada, I can't get stuff from all the US manufacturers quickly/cheaply. All the stuff I get from the states is usually 2-4 week wait. Plus I can make most of the stuff I need, ie. solid mounts.
     
  20. Jul 11, 2012 at 12:20 AM
    #40
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 E-Fabber

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    Like Jberry and Nelson said gusset those motor mounts. Also good idea to make some coilbucket gussets, such as secondary shock mounts so your coil bucket doesnt bend up. I should have pics soon in my build thread on some that i made.
     
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