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Nathan's Long Travel Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Conman117, Apr 29, 2012.

  1. Oct 2, 2013 at 9:53 AM
    #721
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nathan
    BC, Canada
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    Blue LED dash lights
    Yeah! If you're up for the detour, come by. It might even be back on the road in a couple months :p

    Thanks!
     
  2. Oct 2, 2013 at 9:41 PM
    #722
    chriswh86

    chriswh86 Active Member

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    Sounds good, where abouts are you in BC?

    How did you like the General Tire Grapplers? I have been looking into tires for pea gravel, bit of muck, sharp rocks for the gravel roads around here. Are they suited for that or more sand?
     
  3. Oct 3, 2013 at 7:21 AM
    #723
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    I'm in Smithers, so kinda out of your way. But I always make trips around the province, and to the island.
    General Grabbers, hmmmm. Depends on the weather there. Its the island, so lots of rain, any snow where your at? They're sucky on ice and packed snow, any large lug, non-siped tire will be not great on ice. I'm recommend a good A/T or maybe M/T for what you want. Lots of tire threads on here, just look around for what you like.
     
  4. Oct 3, 2013 at 9:14 PM
    #724
    chriswh86

    chriswh86 Active Member

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    Ya lots of rain :( and snow, well it doesnt fall to often near sea level but on the back roads it will be pretty common for the places that id like to go.

    Damn smithers is farther than I though lol! Ahh maybe we can work something out some other time if your at a different place around BC. Must be some wicked places to drive up there though!
     
  5. Oct 4, 2013 at 6:31 PM
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    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    BC, Canada
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    Ok, rear shock talk. Since I always know exactly what I'm doing, my tires hit my rear shocks when I'm flexed out. So I flexed it out with no shocks and it looks like I have around 4" between tire and frame.
    Should I try to squeeze my 2.5 shock in there, or notch my frame?
    Having 3/4" on either side of the shock doesnt seem like enough to me.

    DD7173A7-CC44-4329-A0E5-32E3E46EF8FC-223_b9b093005f90a072d52cd05fb23ef110055d6278.jpg

    EDIT: and thats not with the bumpstop compressed either, so the gap might be a tad smaller on big rocks or rough landings
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013
  6. Oct 4, 2013 at 7:11 PM
    #726
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    Notch your frame! 05tacorunner did his, no clearance issues at all
     
  7. Oct 4, 2013 at 8:55 PM
    #727
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    What axle? What wheel offset? Was the other side close to full droop?
     
  8. Oct 4, 2013 at 9:02 PM
    #728
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Probably whats going to happen.

    Tundra axle, 4" BS on the wheels IIRC. Yeah the other side was pretty close to droop.
     
  9. Oct 4, 2013 at 9:28 PM
    #729
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    Hmm It should work... Im asking becuase my friend Tony ...If you remember him from the Krispy kreme meet Red tacoma first gen... he had shocks outside the axle on a tundra axle 15x8" wheels on 35" tires and it clears the shocks.
     
  10. Oct 4, 2013 at 9:34 PM
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    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Well they "should" clear, theres 4". Its just really tight. I might notch the frame just to gain some breathing space, in case theres any axle movement :notsure:
     
  11. Oct 8, 2013 at 12:20 AM
    #731
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    Okay. How did you connect the brake line to the fitting on top of the tundra axle it seems it wont fit...
     
  12. Oct 8, 2013 at 7:06 AM
    #732
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    I actually re-plumbed the whole rear axle.
    Theres talk somewhere about what different people did about it.
    You could get the flare nut for the tundra and cut off the tacoma one and flare on the right one.
    Do you have access to a brake line flare tool?
    Maybe ask Jason what he did.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2013
  13. Oct 8, 2013 at 9:08 AM
    #733
    SanClemTaco

    SanClemTaco Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    From what im guessing (im by no means an expert) your shock is goin to be near the location of the red-line. I think you may need to move the shock mount closer to the frame and notch the frame for clearance. As it is right now the shock is really close to the tire at bump but has plenty of clearance on the frame side. (I assume it is the opposite when the suspension is drooped: clearance tire side, close frame side)
     
  14. Oct 8, 2013 at 9:47 PM
    #734
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Couple pics with shocks.

    Bumped

    IMG_1244_zps9d54c47d_9f003be7e8dd644415cde3c835d69a01bc663290.jpg

    Drooped

    IMG_1245_zpsac10108b_c9abac8bc01cc063cacce10f79232a5af5991c78.jpg

    Theres actually some room between the shock and the frame at droop, although its not "fully" drooped, its as drooped out as it will be with the other side tucked up.
     
  15. Oct 8, 2013 at 9:59 PM
    #735
    SanClemTaco

    SanClemTaco Well-Known Member

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    only real solution im seeing is to move the shock inward will it doesnt rub and notch the frame accordingly (if at all). The clearance can be tight because this is max articulation (assuming the bumps are compressed when everything clears and the other side is drooped out fully) i would say even 1/2 inch clearance at max articulation should be adequate (just my opinion)
     
  16. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:45 PM
    #736
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Finally started bending tube.

    DF7227D7-83D5-4299-AFE9-C628D5FF1EF6-208_e513884183cc7a23fdaa8ef74e8f3137f31fe8eb.jpg

    Trying to get it pretty tight to keep as much head room as possible. As I'm pretty tall, I don't want to smash my head on tubes

    D6A35DAB-CDE3-4810-9600-E789D6D6002C-208_1380f8506312d8de8ed785b8001e9719b8d8c5bd.jpg

    It's really annoying me that the tubes on either side are not the same distance off the cab. In the bottom corners of the windshield, the passenger side one is in farther. I'll just live with it

    E51A715A-5E69-4724-B440-682893F99C3F-208_51e4b115aad93ddcdc6992c42ff4a656fa07534a.jpg
     
  17. Nov 3, 2013 at 9:09 PM
    #737
    DIRT YOTA

    DIRT YOTA Aka EL ROJO

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    Very nice! :thumbsup:
     
  18. Nov 3, 2013 at 9:59 PM
    #738
    FBGW01

    FBGW01 Well-Known Member

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    check my build
    looks great so far! how do u like that jd bender? I'm thinking of picking up one of those
     
  19. Nov 3, 2013 at 10:06 PM
    #739
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Thanks!

    Yeah its good, wish I got the hydro ram. but the bends are great, I can get consistent bends so I can't complain. A draw-through bender is a must for tubing
     
  20. Nov 9, 2013 at 1:14 PM
    #740
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nathan
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    Thinking about taking the box off my truck and building a drybox the same size as the stock box. That way I can hang the bedsides off it and have dry storage in the bed since I won't have any room in the cab anymore.
    Leave room at the back for spares and make it flush with the top of the bedsides. Could look pretty sweet.
    Individual compartments for fuel cell and batteries to keep them dry and separate.
     

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