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Nathan's Long Travel Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Conman117, Apr 29, 2012.

  1. Jul 31, 2012 at 2:53 PM
    #81
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nathan
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    IDK man, mines gonna be some time still:) Once everything is back together I still have to build bumpers and a bed cage
     
  2. Jul 31, 2012 at 2:54 PM
    #82
    tacokid09

    tacokid09 it's about the off-road miles

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    mine probably wont be done till the end of september :(
     
  3. Jul 31, 2012 at 2:58 PM
    #83
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Yeah that when I figure I'll be done. Wanna race? JK :D
     
  4. Jul 31, 2012 at 3:20 PM
    #84
    113tac

    113tac Well-Known Member

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    Mostly Stock for now, 265 75 16 Falken AT3W, Tinted fronts...
    subbed. sick build so far!
     
  5. Jul 31, 2012 at 3:31 PM
    #85
    SDHQ OFFROAD

    SDHQ OFFROAD Cuz Stock Sucks! Vendor

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    Nice looking build so far!
     
  6. Jul 31, 2012 at 3:38 PM
    #86
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    I'm running 285x75x16 with a 4" BS on wheels.
    Plenty of room between the tire and the spindle gusset. I occasionally rub the core support if I hit a deep whoop or hard landing. The tires eventually self clearance the core support.
    Do the pinchweld mod once you get the body back on and you'll be fine with 285's
     
  7. Jul 31, 2012 at 4:07 PM
    #87
    BMOC

    BMOC Well-Known Member

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    Awesome build! :cheers:
     
  8. Jul 31, 2012 at 4:22 PM
    #88
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Thanks. Now to decide which tire to get...
     
  9. Jul 31, 2012 at 9:40 PM
    #89
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nathan
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    Got my limit straps shortened. Instead of buying new ones, I took them in and had a guy just cut the stitching and re-stitch it 1" shorter.

    [​IMG]

    Now theres a gap between my uniball and collar in my UCA, and theres lots of thread left on the adjuster.
    On another note, I think for wheels I'm going to get the procomp alloys, 16x8, 4" backspacing.
     
  10. Aug 2, 2012 at 7:49 PM
    #90
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Wheels are ordered. Went with the flat black procomps.
     
  11. Aug 4, 2012 at 4:36 PM
    #91
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Santa came again. Now I'm waiting on the wheels.

    Theres a slight difference in tread:D

    [​IMG]

    GRABBERS
     
  12. Aug 7, 2012 at 3:59 PM
    #92
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Nathan
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    Do I need to mount the front factory bumpstops on the frame if I'm getting some king bumps?
     
  13. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:01 PM
    #93
    theduck911

    theduck911 Max's Canadian Twin

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    No, most cut out the entire bumpstop bracket as you can gain slight uptravel with proper placing of hydro bumps. :cool:
     
  14. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:07 PM
    #94
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    Interesting... I'll wait a bit on cutting into my frame until I have my bumps, then I'll get more info on what to cut. Thanks for the tip.
    On a side note, toyota replaced the backing plates on my rear axle because I didn't want to fight with pressing them off and on. But... they put the wrong ones on:p I guess theres different styles of brakes on different tundra years because the brake adjustment hole doesnt line up. Derp for toyota.
     
  15. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:08 PM
    #95
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Are you bumping off the LCA itself or UCA bolt?

    "Bumpstop bracket" on a first gen is part of the LCA. You drill holes and thread into the factory bump strike area and invert the factory bumps with spacers when installing a LT kit. If you want to get more uptravel you can remove the spacers or swap out bumps with aftermarket like the daystar bumps. I don't think you're going to get any more uptravel by cutting out the bump pads as your UCA uniball will be metal to metal with the misalignment.
     
  16. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:16 PM
    #96
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    I don't know yet. Which one is better? I was planning off the LCA.


    So I should install them anyway? Then I don't have to get the expensive bumps right away.
     
  17. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:36 PM
    #97
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Personally I would only bump off the UCA bolt, but that requires an engine cage and some ingenuity, of which I can't say I have much of either. There's no strike pad and I'm not sure how stout the new boxed LCA is from TC and if it can handle an air bump, so I think you should shoot off a quick email or phone call to TC get an answer from them.

    These are the bumps I'm running, no need for a spacer with these as they are taller than the factory bumps. Fairly certain Matt is running these as well. They come in a two pack so you'd need two for a total of 4 bumps. They are SAE threads so if you run your factory bumps with the spacer now (which are metric), you'll have to re-tap the threads with SAE and load up on red loctite

    http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Daystar-EVS-Foam-1-3-8-X-2-1-2-Diameter-Bump-Stop-p-25912.html
     
  18. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:42 PM
    #98
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    Im running those bumps, they are fine.
     
  19. Aug 7, 2012 at 4:51 PM
    #99
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    But dont do that without a race spindle. I believe someone posted an email they sent to TC in the BS thread and TC said they do not recommend using an air bump on their LCA's

    Camburg FTW :p
     
  20. Aug 7, 2012 at 5:13 PM
    #100
    Conman117

    Conman117 [OP] AWESOME MEMBER

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    I'll probably just get those poly bumps. You guys are running them and they are cheap, two good things going for them.
     

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