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Need advice about problems with ball joints

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Warwookie, Aug 19, 2010.

  1. Aug 19, 2010 at 4:42 PM
    #1
    Warwookie

    Warwookie [OP] New Member

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    Jason
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    So I have been seriously looking into getting a lift on my taco. Its an 09 DC TRD Offroad. Im leaning more towards a 3" lift with simple,but very good and dependable black rims. Not sure on the tires yet though. Right now,im pretty lift illiterate and my friend keeps telling me to get a full suspension lift because if i dont it will mess with the ball joints and i will have to replace the control arms. Is this true? I know what a body lift is but can someone please explain to me the difference between suspension lifts if there is one? Also any suggestions on rims and tires would be awesome. Thxs taco lovers!
     
  2. Aug 19, 2010 at 4:55 PM
    #2
    Rich Beauregard

    Rich Beauregard Well-Known Member

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    This is the (Old Man Emu) OME 885 Springs and OME Front Struts I put on a 2010 Tacoma 4x4 Dbl Cab LB TRD Sport. They lift it about 2-3/4" up front. If you want more add the top spacer they offer from toytec. It's about 1/4" thick, but adds 3/4" in lift. Best place to get good deals I was able to find is: www.trdparts4u.com
    08-10-10013_bfc1c1ca44a964e451a443d15c62294d2c9bd1d8.jpg08-10-10004B_df45dd2fcf116e29a3467f11fbc796ef3530cb5a.jpg
     
  3. Aug 19, 2010 at 4:59 PM
    #3
    toyo freak

    toyo freak Another Toyota Enthusiast

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    X2 nice post
    You will prob need new Upper controll arms with three inch lift. Make sure you get 4.5" bs wheels
     
  4. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:03 PM
    #4
    Rich Beauregard

    Rich Beauregard Well-Known Member

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    I have about 35,000 miles on my Silver Tacoma since I put the OME 886 Springs and OME Struts. No ball joint problems. Note: OME 885 springs are good if you have no added weight to the front. I used the OME 886 springs because I have the extra 300lbs with the 200lb ARB front bumper and about 100lb T-Max 10k Winch.
    IMG_7141_176732fbcab0f514a1463a8f61fcdb7513421561.jpg09-25-092006DblCab4x4TRDSportLongbed_c6d5397a0ad8739d57d10346aa8c864c38df4449.jpg
     
  5. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:09 PM
    #5
    Rich Beauregard

    Rich Beauregard Well-Known Member

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    As you can see, No need to change the upper control arms with 3" lift, but I do agree if you buy new rims, get a 4-1/2" back space (4.5" BS)
    Also the Dakar rear leaf springs give a good 3" lift in the rear.
    IMG_6719_66acff7c8c45a0241cabe1a5c40f7f117c40642d.jpgIMG_6722_53f28f95d15bc3524b36ed18149338cf53374f8d.jpg
     
  6. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:12 PM
    #6
    Warwookie

    Warwookie [OP] New Member

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    4.5 bs wheels? What exactly does that mean? Im sorry, im just in the process of learning all of this? What should i look for if i have to get a different control arm and is that all i would need? What would i do about the back of the truck? I read about blocks or leaf springs and leaf spring packages.
     
  7. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:29 PM
    #7
    Rich Beauregard

    Rich Beauregard Well-Known Member

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    Some things you will see: AAL = Add A Leaf, BS = Back Space (That's the distance from the back edge of your rim to the back edge of the center part of the rim.) you need about 4.5" BS to clear a bigger tire on your upper Control Arms (UCA)
     
  8. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:35 PM
    #8
    Warwookie

    Warwookie [OP] New Member

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    Ok So all i would need in the back is those leaf springs and that would give me the 3 inches to equal the front? Do i still get a good weight load with those or better? Im still a bit confused. Do i get a kit that does the front.
     
  9. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:55 PM
    #9
    InfidelTaco

    InfidelTaco No better friend,No worse enemy...

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    Dont forget to do ur alignment after u complete ur front lift alignment...
     
  10. Aug 19, 2010 at 9:31 PM
    #10
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    You don't need to worry about ball-joints when lifting these things.

    Many folks find it beneficial to add aftermarket upper control arms (UCA) so they can get the front tires aligned properly and/or get a little extra performance out of coilovers.... Many folks lift and never add UCAs...

    The only thing you need to watch is your CV angle (basically the little drivelines in the front with the black accordian booties on them). Generally a 3" or less seems to be ok but they'll likely wear out a little earlier than stock.

    BTW, a "suspension lift" is any modification to the suspension that results in the vehicle be higher. Blocks, Spacers, Adjustable/extended/lifting coilovers, AAL, custom leafsprings, oversized spindles, extended shackles, etc = suspension. Basically, the only lift type that is not "suspension" is a bodylift (extended bushings/pucks/spacers between the truck body and frame.
     
  11. Aug 19, 2010 at 9:34 PM
    #11
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    There is some choice for the rear lift. if you want it to look level you probably want anywhere from 1" to 2" of rear lift; if you want the rear a little higher, like it's tilted right now, then you'll want 3" in the rear.
     

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