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Need advice on crusty nut removal

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by fireturk41, Jan 21, 2025.

  1. Jan 21, 2025 at 12:34 PM
    #1
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 [OP] I like to break shit!

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    Rust belt warriors I need some advice! I got an exhaust riser I need to remove that is extremely crusty. I was looking at induction heaters vs rosebud, vs welding a nut to it and wanted input on what works best or what combo works best.

    IMG_7028.jpg
    IMG_7030.jpg
     
  2. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:06 PM
    #2
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

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    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    I would wire brush the nuts first, then use a box wrench and hammer to tap like a poor man's impact (since you can't get an impact on the nut). I use a very low setting even with an impact and then before any attempt to move I use MAPP(yellow bottle)gas with a very small and focused flame. You can get them easily in just about any hardware store. If I have an impact I just keep the flame on it and then bump the impact back and forth in direction until I see some movement.

    This is the setup I like:

    https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Propane-Ignition-Adjustable-Soldering/dp/B08V1SJMZD?content-id=amzn1.sym.c5787da2-212d-48eb-a894-9ea5a87adeb3%3Aamzn1.sym.c5787da2-212d-48eb-a894-9ea5a87adeb3&crid=2NUEORI3OKG6G&cv_ct_cx=MAPP+Gas+torch&keywords=MAPP+Gas+torch&pd_rd_i=B08V1SJMZD&pd_rd_r=eb24634f-7071-44c8-b264-a67d554af314&pd_rd_w=EQvoO&pd_rd_wg=9uNgk&pf_rd_p=c5787da2-212d-48eb-a894-9ea5a87adeb3&pf_rd_r=Y996F2PM6MMT8M46F0G9&qid=1737493521&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF+O5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=mapp+gas+torch%2Caps%2C252&sr=1-5-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

    I've never had luck with the welded nut or extractors. I just can't seem to get the trick, maybe not letting the weld cool enough or not enough penetration on it.
     
  3. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:14 PM
    #3
    T4R_hereforbearings

    T4R_hereforbearings Dale Doback, M.D.

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    I’ve bolted some stuff to it *lists cool stuff here*



    “Crusty nut removal” :oops::stayontopic:



    But I’d try what he said ^
     
    Pablo8 and zippsub9 like this.
  4. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:31 PM
    #4
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    Heat is your friend here.
    But you might be surprised if you wire wheel the nuts and just try a good 6-point socket.
    It looks bad, but not that "bad".
     
  5. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:44 PM
    #5
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 [OP] I like to break shit!

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    It’s an exhaust manifold in a salt water environment so I just worry about them being pretty fused
     
  6. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:46 PM
    #6
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    Heat......
     
    MalinoisDad likes this.
  7. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:56 PM
    #7
    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

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    If you can get the induction heater wire around the nut, they work incredibly well, especially if you heat it, let it cool with Kroil or similar, then hit it again. Some of the stuff I have taken apart with mine astounds me.
     
  8. Feb 8, 2025 at 7:08 AM
    #8
    joeyv141

    joeyv141 Well-Known Member

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    Wire wheel the nut and exposed threads, always clean exposed threads so that once the nut/bolt breaks loose there is less resistance for continued removal. I would heat the nut up many times to try and break the rust bond before touching it with a socket/extractor. Use a 6 point impact socket instead of a chrome socket, invest in a high quality rounded bolt extractor set you dont need snap on but don't bother with something from autozone, the gearwrench and Irwin ones look high quality, if you need to use a extractor often times you only get one good first try before damaging the head making it extremely more difficult. If the 6 point socket fits well use at least a 2 foot breaker bar to slightly tighten and loosen it to break it loose.
     

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