Need Audio Guru Input...

That's pretty badass. Just read through the whole thread. I love those old bull-nose trucks, but the 96 OBD2 MAF engine is sooooo much better.

I would have preferred to keep the factory dash and retrofitted some of that stuff he did into the dash, but he has more knowledge/time/money than i do lol,

 

Went ahead and ordered the C1's and the Kenwood amp. When it all comes in, hopefully it'll all fit lol! Nice thing about Crutchfield is their return policy, so i will just have to see. At the very least i can get started wiring up the amp.

Has anyone used these? Thinking about utilizing them for running power to the amp without risking chafing damage from harsh vibration offroad. I like the idea up a fuse Battery > firewall, and firewall > Amp. Double protection never hurt right?

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10313/10002/-1

 

What about using one of these
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46314_Stinger-Firewall-Grommet-PG12.html

 

That might work too, but I can add and change wires with the post vs the socket.

 

No existing passthru? That's a bummer.

I like the grommet idea better myself. If for no other reason you're introducing 2 more crimps, 2 more bolted connections and raising the resistance as well as complexity and adding points of failure. Then again, it would make adding accessories easier.

Yeah you need to fuse at the battery - as close to the positive battery terminal as possible. And you need to fuse your amps. The up front fuse is to prevent a fire or other calamity in the case that something goes sideways, you get in a crash, etc. And it helps protect the battery. The rear fuse is to prevent your amp from drawing too much current.

 

My concern with the passthrough is that i have to have it planned, sized etc from go. With the posts, i can install, then run wire/cable etc, and change things as needed. My biggest concern with how this truck will be used is shock and washboard vibration.

 

Naah, a single run is easy. And your cable can be too long - maybe measure it out with a tape, buy a few extra feet, and work your way back from the battery. If you think things may move around, route the cable around something to take up the slack (coils can generate inductance fwiw). Putting it in a protective sleeve inside the engine bay is a good idea too. As far as vibration, I think you would be worse off with the bolt method. You'll also need to find or make boots for those.

 

Another vote for drill a hole, grommet.

From first hand experience, I’ll never run less than a 1/0 cable through the firewall so if you decide to upgrade later you have enough power wire already. Fuse at the battery, 1/0 into the cab through a grommet, fuse again at a distribution block (for multiple amps) and decrease wire size to what’s appropriate for your amp (smaller wires bend easier for routing under your carpet).

I haven’t seen mention made of how you’re getting signal to your amp. Stock headunit, aftermarket, high level on the amp, processor, line driver???

 

I have an aftermarket HU now that i'm not a huge fan of, but will suffice for the time being. Its a Pioneer DEH-X6500BT, which has two sets of RCA outputs on the back. I would use those to send audio signal to the amp correct? And have an ignition keyed power source to turn it on?

Edit: looks like it has signal sensing power-on.

Compact design with controlable interface to adjust the sound from a receiver.
① Filter Frequency Control (A.ch/B.ch)
② Filter Switch to apply HPF / OFF / LPF (A.ch/B.ch).
③ Line In terminal
④ Input Sensitivity Control (A.ch/B.ch)

 

Your aftermarket head unit should have a “remote” wire that you connect to the “remote” terminal on the amp. That’s your turn on lead. If you need to activate multiple amps, recommend running the head’s turn on lead to a relay, then from the relay to multiple amps. Won’t be necessary with just one.

Signal sensing is never as consistent or accurate as a true remote turn on.

 

Good to know, thanks man! Signal wire should be easy to do.

 

Just ordered a few more things to complete my setup. Grabbed a 12awg wiring kit to power the amp, and RCA's for signal. I'll run a remote turn-on signal wire as well.