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Need brake upgrade!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 043RZ, Nov 16, 2013.

  1. Nov 16, 2013 at 5:11 PM
    #1
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Im having a bit of a problem with my rotors always warping within 10000 to 15000 miles. Iv replaced the rotors once with Napa rotors and within a short period of time, my steering wheel started shimmying back and forth every time i would apply the brakes. So i took them off and had them turned, and again, in a short period of time they would become warped.

    Why is this happening? Is it because of the larger wheels and tires?

    Iv been looking at the Tundra brake upgrade, but the thing is the brakes work just fine for stopping power and emergency stops. And trust me iv already had them all but lock up before. Had ABS kick on on hard dry surface so i know the brakes have plenty of power if the tires were starting to lock up in the front and ABS kick on.

    So are there any other options out there that you guys have tried and liked the results with. Thought about going with drilled and slotted rotors with hawk pads.

    Any suggestions? Thanks
     
  2. Nov 16, 2013 at 5:49 PM
    #2
    04trd

    04trd Well-Known Member

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    Napa stuff sucks. I had the same thing happen to me. Try a good set from summit racing I have a set of ebc rotors and they are amazing lasted me 40k so far and they really stop good. Get a set of those and the green scuff pads and your all set
     
  3. Nov 16, 2013 at 6:15 PM
    #3
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What type do you have? Are they drilled and slotted?
     
  4. Nov 16, 2013 at 6:18 PM
    #4
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What about Powerslot Frozen Rotors??? Never heard of them
     
  5. Nov 16, 2013 at 6:20 PM
    #5
    Sigi

    Sigi Well-Known Member

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    You can buy brembo's from eBay for cheap . I've bought a few through out the years and have never had any problems . There about 60 for a pair with free shipping .
     
  6. Nov 16, 2013 at 6:24 PM
    #6
    Ga tacoguy

    Ga tacoguy Well-Known Member

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    You may want to examine your brake calipers and see if the caliper moves back and forth freely. I see you drive where snow falls and the caliper may be subjected to road salts that can cause the mounting pins to seize. Also you may a bad front brake line that goes to the caliper, it can collapse on the inside and not show any external problems.
    Is the amount of wear on the brake pads equal on both the front and rear pads and the left and right side pads. You may find that to be contributing to your warping. I hope this may help. Good Luck.
     
  7. Nov 16, 2013 at 6:26 PM
    #7
    zbaldo

    zbaldo Well-Known Member

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    I have this set up they are great but hVe only had it for two months so can't stay say much for longetivity, they do squeak a big but I think I have to reapply grease on them.
     
  8. Nov 16, 2013 at 6:31 PM
    #8
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Last time i had the wheels off (about a month ago) i checked the wear of the pads and everything looks to be wearing evenly.
     
  9. Nov 18, 2013 at 5:24 AM
    #9
    04trd

    04trd Well-Known Member

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    Yes I do have drilled and slotted. Well worth the money. Not sure what ones I got but I'll try to find out for u. Ya also they are some what squeeky when I first jump in my truck after sitting out all night but after one good stop it's all quiet. Great set up definitly recommend it
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2013
  10. Nov 18, 2013 at 7:07 AM
    #10
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    Tundra brakes are not too bad if you look around for some used calipers. Got mine off ebay and bought new slotted rotors and new pads. Cost less than $450. Great investment IMO.
     
  11. Nov 20, 2013 at 6:10 PM
    #11
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info guys!!
     
  12. Nov 20, 2013 at 7:50 PM
    #12
    JLee50

    JLee50 Well-Known Member

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    Drilled/slotted rotors are really of no practical benefit. The holes add additional areas where the rotor is susceptible to cracking, and it also slightly reduces your pad contact patch. Regardless of what you find on the internet, they're entirely unnecessary - we've ran 14-25 hour races on regular blank rotors without burning rotors (24 Hours of LeMons and Chump Car endurance races with MR2s)

    The pads material is likely the cause of the squeak, not the rotor itself. An added benefit of Tundra brakes (or any larger brake system) is the larger mass to absorb and dissipate heat, but if you never get brake fade that may be unnecessary. I've read that the Tundra rotors last longer than Tacoma ones, but I've never ran them other than on my Tundra (which was fine for 3+ years without touching the brakes).

    Anyway, 2 cents to add to the pile. ;)
     
  13. Nov 21, 2013 at 3:41 PM
    #13
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    I see from your truck info that you have a lift installed. Did you adjust the rear brake proportioning valve (BPV) for the amount of rear lift you added?

    I ask because if you did not, the lift has cuased the rear braking to be reduced, forcing the fronts to do all of the work. Typically, front rotors will warp when overheated. This could explain why you are having trouble with the front brakes.

    If you have added 3" of rear lift, you must adjust the BPV arm upwards by the same amount to retain your front to back braking power.
     
  14. Nov 21, 2013 at 3:47 PM
    #14
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the BPV has been adjusted. The lift kit came with a bracket to put it back in to specifications
     
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