Need CV shaft nut torque

no the nucklehead shop I brought it to to fix my leak

 

Anyone know if the speed sensor has to be removed to change the hub assembly?
It doesn’t look like it HAS to be, but maybe a good idea just in case?

 

I would just to ensure it doesn’t break

 

Kinda quick to judge too there, don't ya think?
Glass half empty kinda guy maybe

 

The way you worded it

 

Word, I got ya

 

For whatever it’s worth I have never used a torque wrench on my cv axles and I have changed them out at least 10 times
Wheel bearings are as good as new

 

Do you happen to know if there is an O-ring that seals it?
And if so, should it be replaced and where can you get one.
I don’t see it list on any parts diagrams.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hmm I never noticed any o rings. The only seal I replaced was the ones associated with the CV and bearing

 

Thank man.

I’ll be getting the Hub O-Ring and new Axle Nut.
Since this will be my second time doing hubs. Figure I might as well do new axle nut.
Did both inner and outer seals last time.

 

Holy 9 year thread bump....

Gotto be a record? Anyone, Beuller?

 

When a DeWalt impact at Max torque (700ftlbs) isn't enough to get it off something isn't right.
This was just taken off last month so no rust seizing or salt corrosion.
I literally had a breaker bar with a pipe to get it loose.

 

I had the same issue when I first had to replace my wheel bearings.

 

You do realize what happens when you over torque, wheel bearings get squished.
Hence why there's a torque.
I work in aerospace, I've seen first hand what wrong torque specs can do.

 

And I get this because they were probably seized on at that point.
Like I said mine got put on last month!
No time for it to seize, it was over torqued.

 

On the flip side, if you don't torque it enough you'll destroy the wheel bearing as well. Learned that lesson the hard way

 

Bummer, I bet you follow torque specs where they matter now.

 

Well I left out some details from that experience...technically it wasn't improperly torqued, it was cross threaded. Since it was cross threaded the axle nut wasn't able to seat fully which allowed for play in the wheel bearing and toasted it on a 350 mile road trip the next day. But the same idea applies, if you don't torque it enough to where it allows play, the same thing will happen.

The lesson I learned from that experience is that if you cross thread the axle nut, don't get frustrated and think you'll be okay until you change it out next time. Because next time will come a lot sooner than you think and be a lot more expensive lol.

 

Those nuts are a pain to thread on.
I wish it was a larger thread size

 

Sounds about right. Lol
I used some 3/4" conduit about 42" long on my breaker bar when I did mine.
I wonder why so tight considering there's essentially a castleated nut with a cotter pin holding it.