Need Help: 2000 Pre-Runner 2.7L no start diagnose

After no apparent issues (at least to my observation) my 2000 Tacoma Pre-Runner I4 (2RZ-FE) started up yesterday, sputtering badly. I immediately shut off the engine, got out and smelled gas. Now when cranked, it won't start. It's got 295K miles, and I've had it 9 years. FIrst time I've ever turned the key and had a problem.

I've only had a chance to pull the 1st plug and it had a "wet" look to it, smelled like gas (maybe oil/gas mix?).

The spark plugs need to be changed. But given the sudden nature of the issue I suspect there may be something else at play. The smell of gas on the plug leads me to believe it's getting fuel. Worried it may be timing-related, but given the nature of the problem, it could be any of a number of things. I'm not sure where to start.

I'm going to change plugs/wires. What else should I check, and in what order? Would a scan tool help me zero-in on the problem(s)?

 

Can you tell us what maintenance or repairs or tinkering have been done in the last nine years since you've had it? Also, is the check engine light on?

 

The check engine light wasn't on prior to this, but I'll have to check if its on now when I get home. No major engine work since I've had it.

I replaced both lower ball joint and tie rod ends last year, and replaced the U-joints in the drive shaft double-cardan three years ago. I've made regular fluid changes, brake, battery, fan belts and air filter replacements - all as-needed. The spark plugs and wires are overdue (it's been a couple years, and I put a lot of mileage on it in that time).

I plan to start with the plugs, but since this happened suddenly (unless I missed some tell-tale sign), I suspect it may be more than just plugs/wires. After that, I'm not sure where to begin localizing the problem.

 

Hopefully it is on, just for pointing in a direction to start with on the diagnosis. If it's on and you get it read, let us know here the exact code number they tell you. Should be something like P0xxx.

 

Can I check if the CEL is tripped from ACC? The motor doesn't start, and I've never needed to check a CEL in such a case. Actually, I'd never seen the CEL on in this truck (though the light/circuit check out in the key's "ON" position).

 

on the back of the fuel rail there is a pressure regulator, pull the vacuum hose off of it, I bet there is fuel in the vacuum line indicating that the pressure regulator diaphram is shot... very very tough to diagnose over a forum chat line but that is where i would start.

 

Great suggestion Glamisman. Def would not have thought of that one. Haven't had time to get into it, and tomorrow's the day. I'll give that a look ... before I go ripping bolts and hoses off ... kidding, hopefully.

 

Had only a few minutes for troubleshooting today. (My free-time is often dictated by the napping and behavior of a newborn and the patience of his mother.)

Scan tool found no problems, surprisingly. Checked the fuel pressure regulator, and found no gas in the vacuum line. Hoping to do a proper fuel-line inspection tomorrow, along with changing spark plugs/wires to confirm fuel and spark.

Can anyone tell me the best way to wire up an under hood push-button switch? The starter/solenoid doesn't seem too easy to reach and looks like its wired with boots.

 

It was a much older vehicle (1984 Chevy Camaro, 4 barrel carb) but it did the same stuff you describe. Plugs were junk. I put 8 new ones in and it fired right up, ran like new.

 

Title of thread changed to make nature of problem clearer.

So I got stonewalled in my first no-start diagnosis of the fuel pump, which I first "checked" by turning ignition to "ON". Got excited, thought I found the issue, but later read in the factory manual that the ignition alone doesn't turn the FP on. It suggests running a battery to the terminals on fP directly? Is that right?

Thus far, I know it's not the plugs and spark wires themselves - those are changed. Could be the coils - haven't checked that juice arrives at the plugs. I don't have a spark plug tester, multimeter or a helper to crank the motor while I watch the plugs and couldn't figure out how to wire a push-button, under-hood start into the ignition wire, which has a boot.

I thought about spraying a little starter fluid into the throttle body intake, but I'm not sure how to do that without spraying the MAF sensor or disabling the intake sensors used in the startup process. If I can get some SF in there, and it turns over, I'll likely have isolated to the fuel system, and if not, I'll proceed with spark and air checks. Any ideas, or tips?

 

If your spark plugs smell of gas its not a fuel problem. is your truck manual or auto trans? You need to find out if theres spark...I'd say if one coil pack goes out it would try to start or would start but it would be rough and you'd get a CEL. If all packs dont have spark its not getting power, possibly ECM problem

 

Yup you can run on one less pack, albeit like dogshit

 

you could take a plug out and pour a little gas, by little I mean a thimble full, into the spark plug hole, put the plug back in and crank it over.

 

Yeah, good point with the plugs smelling like gas. Probably smart to check the coils are firing next and go from there.

Forget the gasoline trick, I'll just stop the first teenager I see walking by and ask him to hold the plug in his fist while I crank the motor, haha. Probably no spark anyway.

It's an A/T RWD, btw.

Edit: Also wanted to add that I have no CEL and OBDII found no codes, but showed censors had run tests. I'm sure there are reasons this happens, but in a no-fire condition, I found that difficult to believe.

 

Im thinking its an ECU problem

 

I suspected not an ECU issue, initially, because there hadn't been anything that would have affected the ECU system from one day to the next. Though, it could almost always be "the issue" from what I've read in the FSM.

Is there a quick way to check the ECU without checking each series of jumpers involved in the ignition and starting systems?

I haven't gotten down to check the coil packs yet. If they're getting fire, I'll double-check fuel is arriving. After that, IDK yet. If there's a quick way to diagnose failure at ECU, I'll do that, otherwise I might check ECU with a multimeter as I move through each system.

 

The ECU should only allow the fuel to flow to the engine if it detects no problems with the ignition system. So with wet plugs that smell of gas, that would lead me to believe the ECM senses no issues with ignition(spark) and is allowing fuel to reach cylinders. The weird part is no MIL. I'm not sure which ignition parts can fail without tripping the MIL. Perhaps the issue is related to the MAF sensor. Have you tried cleaning that yet?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecu-reset.225530/#post-5267531

found this one for a reset...worth a try..

 

If the quick checks dont reveal anything you are just going to have to go back to basics... she has a timing chain so she is an interfearnce engine, you would KNOW if that was the problem. With no codes it could be something as simple as a vacuum hose spilt (false air) the fuel pump no having enough pressure, the fuel filter plugged. You are just going to have to keep checking until you find it.

as for "resetting the ecu", all you are doing is clearing all of the "learned" habits and starting from the factory settings for all engine/trans functions.

 

Check all fuses inside and out. Check for spark.