Need Help....and change your own oil...

Sounds like most of you understand that the housing does not require much torque on it. There is no gasket to make contact to seal. Sealing is done via an o-ring. A slight snug is all that's needed.

As for the "poor design" some have mentioned? This filter setup debuted way back in 2004 on the original 2GR powered '05 Avalon. It's a tried and true design. No issues with it. Get a few under your belt and you’ll find it no more difficult than some spin-on filter changes. In fact, I'd rather do a cartridge change over the spin-on filter from my previous Taco's 2.7 any day.

 

This seems like a pretty good. Is it?
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/322834774545

It appears the part numbers match for the V6.

 

The cartridge system is excellent, but the plastic cap was designed with a nod towards causing issues for the careless or unfamiliar. Toyota has dabbled with this type of system many times over the years. Here's a vintage early 60's Stout 3R filter next to a couple 3UR V8 filters.

 

This! Any word on when they will be in stock?

 

Where’s the data to back up your claims? Everyday someone substitutes opinion for fact so let’s hear yours.


Both cartridge and spin on are recyclable. Both are shredded. Spin ons remove the metal for recycling otherwise they are the same.

 

Cartridge filters were quite common decades ago. Spin-ons were actually a trickle down from racing technology. So in some ways we've come full circle in the last few years

 

As soon as they are back in stock.

 

The OEM plastic housing exactly as designed and works well. The "upgrade" OEM aluminum housing offers no real benefit other than it offers improved idiot fighting protection. If you're an idiot or sub-contract out oil changes to idiots, the aluminum housing might be of value

I have done every oil/filter change on my Tacoma. Only the first filter change was less than a breeze due to an over-tightened drain plug at the factory. The plug wouldn't come loose, instead the entire housing spun off. Still not a big deal, but it does clearly demonstrate that the root cause is tightening the plug and housing well past spec. Once I got the housing off, I had to put it in a vice to get the plug out.

Since then at each oil change I remove the drain plug and drain the oil, then reinstall the drain plug before removing the housing. That step helps to prevent over tightening the housing by installing the plug last. When I install the housing I tighten it by hand until it stops turning and then snug it with the housing tool a tad (maybe 5° rotation) I've never used a torque wrench on an oil filter or housing, never had a problem. The O ring seals the damn thing it just needs to be snug

All the crying and whining that goes on over a simple task is incredible.

 

I always spread new oil over the o ring prior to assembly and filter canister with oil.

 

This

$22 toy640 assenmacher specialty tools TOY 640 oil filter socket wrench for toyota/lexus

toy640 looks good to me . Do you replace the the plastic housing or just keep it original ? Thanks .

 

The picture he posted is the housing/filter removal tool, not a different kind of housing. When you do an oil change, you change the filter and the o-ring, the housing is reused.

Matt

 

I know that I was wondering if he prefers the original housing or the aftermarket replacement housing . Thanks Matt .

 

Toyota has an OE plastic version and OE aluminum version. I recommend switching to the aluminum one if you are already doing an oil change.

Matt

 

Okay sounds good , I have one more Toyota Care . But when I do mine I will get the Toyota aluminum version housing and the

$22 toy640 assenmacher specialty tools TOY 640 oil filter socket wrench for toyota/lexus

toy640 . Thanks .

 

The aluminum cap is a lifetime part, Toyota even states in some early literature that the aluminum cap is utilized for longer life. The real world is a far cry from perfectly installed plastic oil filter caps. In 30 years, when folks are dragging beat down 3rd gens out of farm fields, it will be prudent to check the condition of various plastic parts. The aluminum parts, more than likely good to go.

 

Only worth it if you want to know its being done right and you would like to save a shit ton of money in the long run. The "Quick Change" place by my house charged $87 after the "full syn discount" they had running at the time. Had i been smart and got a quote up front i would not have done it but was in a hurry to get out of town. I can change it myself in less than 30 minutes for under $30.

 

As noted previously, you don't really need to torque the plastic (or metal housing) down. Spin on filters rely upon proper gasket compression to ensure a seal. This design does not and the housing just needs to be snug in order to secure it. Not debating that a metal housing is less prone to break, but if installed properly, and removed with something like the Motivx wrench (engaging all 4 tabs into the slots), the plastic one will work just fine. I do have a metal back up just in case, but will continue to use the OEM one until a problem arises.

And I've never let my dealer change the oil - just not worth the risk.

 

Hit the nail on the head.

 

This is the one I have and it works fine.

 

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https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...in-on-filter-oil-change.582655/#post-19385045