NEED HELP CV AXLES KEEP RIPPING DUE TO LIFT

Hello everyone I have a 2020 Tacoma TRD sport on a 3 inch rough country spacer block lift and along with that on Bilstein 5100 0-2 inch adjustable front and rear struts my cv axles keep ripping and I see that my left shock absorber is bending my mechanic says I need to buy some upgraded parts to get more clearance and avoid this from happening because there is to much tension on my suspension what parts should I get to fix this I keep seeing upgraded upper control arms but not sure if just that will fix the issue?

 

Front diff drop? I think its recommended for 2 inch + lifts Upper control arms are for caster change to make the truck drive better post lift. I think it makes it less wandery

 

Take the lift off.

 

That’s on the mechanics shop lift.What does it look like on the ground under load? Stock UCA is contacting spring on one side at full droop. Are those stock springs on the 5100s in front? Also concerned about the steering rack. But again that photo is at full droop. An aftermarket UCA would help with clearance around the coil spring but could make it worse by allowing more downward droop. I’d also check the bushings in the Lower control arm, if they are blown out it could be allowing the extra droop. Also check the upper and lower control arm ball joints and especially the ball joint boots. Remove the sway bar until this is sorted, it’s just in the way. You can add it back after you’ve got this figured out. I’ve run 2”+ lifts on every Tacoma I’ve owned and had some issues but all were able to be resolved. If your running rough country they actually make a decent aftermarket UCA that is in a reasonable price point.

Passenger side tire looks worn differently as well?

 

That looks like more then 3 inches.

 

It’s on the mechanics shop lift at full droop. Curious what it looks like on the ground and if there’s any weight on the nose like a steel bumper or winch….

 

Take the spacer lift out and then max out the lift on your Billies.

 

You have combined a spacer lift, and bilstein shock/strut lift on the front, giving you too much lift. Try one or the other, I would bet you problems would go away. Ski

 

Basically you took the cheap route and took too much viagra too get a full boner look all the time which is not good as you found out.

To get the constant full boner look you need a penile implant or drop bracket lift.

Or you can castrate your front axel shafts to eliminate that problem while still maintaining your viagra boner. It all depends on how you want it to function.

 

Waaaaaaaaay too much lift for your upper control arms. You need aftermarket uppers immediately.

I dont know how you havent died this setup is so bad. The longer i look, the more my head hurts. Look at how the Uppers are bending the coil springs out of seat, and the tie rods are maxed, the sway bar end links are going to explode at any time….how the hell did you even get all that mashed up in there?!!

 

Completely unrelated note.... I'm unable to remove my lug nuts. My tool keeps snapping off. Can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

 

OP, with the truck parked on level ground, measure the distance from the center of the front wheel hub to the edge of the fender above. If it's more than 23½" (and it probably is), you have too much lift (stock is 21", so 2.5" lift max).
Right now everyone is just being confused by the steep angle of your suspension shown hanging in mid-air.

Two options are available:
1. Get rid of the spacers, install UCAs, and keep the Bilsteins (setting them up for 2" - 2.5" lift),
2. Install a drop bracket kit that lowers the control arms & differential housing. You can keep your Bilsteins with a drop bracket kit, but they would need to be adjusted to their "stock height" setting if you go that route. A 4" DB kit will probably be close to the same height you're at now, but with your CV axles at or near stock angles (so no more ripping boots).

Either option should produce a huge ride quality improvement as well (no more clunking and banging over speed bumps for example). The way it is now, you probably got almost no downtravel.

 

What previous post wrote. I don’t know who installed your lift. But I got different brand 3” suspension lift installed on my Tacoma from my Toyota dealer. I did get new UCAs installed, they put spacer blocks between where front stabilizer bar bolts to the frame.
Also, I don’t have a drop bracket kit installed. Apparently, different set up.

 

Just wow, not sure if OP is for real or not.
If so, have this towed to a reputable off road shop, tell them what you really want, and let them work their magic unbothered.

 

Yeah that's your problem. The 3" block lift causes your suspension to droop more than the other components can accommodate. Over time either your Bilsteins will buckle or your upper ball joints will rip themselves out. Remove the 3" block, and max out the circlip setting on the Bilstein 5100s like Hunter gatherer said. Then do the boot slide mod on the CV axles.

 

If you're going to play the lift game you better be prepared to correct the geometry and invest in some decent parts. UCA's are just a piece of the puzzle. I dont think UCA's it will keep your CV boot from splitting. Diff drop will help and those are pretty cheap.

 

You got it in yet

 

Good bank heist!