Need help installing Pioneer Headunit!

Ughhh!!!! I’m about to pull my hair out because I wired everything up and I have no power. I rewired the stock radio and that works fine so know I might be a compatibility issue? There are 4 plugs on the stock radio (1 for the speakers, 1 for steering wheel, 1 for power and other speakers, idk what the other is for). I took photos so you guys have a reference point.

bottom line: I’m trying to install a Pioneer DMH160 BT using metro harness. I wired stuff up and no power. I need help!

 

Go here: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-E644TY6yayY/car/carselector.aspx

And find the harness adapters needed to directly plug into the stereo and your truck.
They also have excellent technical assistance.

Here is what they show for a 2010 Access Cab: https://www.crutchfield.com/g_103000/Wiring-Harnesses.html

For the steering wheel controls it looks like this is what you want: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_249TY61S/Crux-SWRTY-61S-Wiring-Interface.html?tp=2977

I know it seems pricey, but it is hard to keep trying to hard wire a stereo as you are doing and then accidently burn something up that cost even more.

 

This. Do it right and you only do it once, plus you won't be having to cut and splice off the factory harness. I used the harness @Jimmyh posted and 9 years later zero issues. I don't have wheel controls so can't speak to that.

 

I agree with @Jimmyh. Spend the money and plug it in.
It will be worth it.

However, it would help if you told us what system you have JBL or Non-JBL?

My opinion is not worth much, but those scotch lock splices are usually a headache later on.

 

Do you have a test light? Those wire splice connectiors are not the best.

Test 12v constant, 12v switched, and ground. It's super basic. My guess is one of your connections is bad.

 

Likely one of the splice connectors isn’t seated well, I’m betting the ground (black) or red (can’t see how that’s connected) since yellow looks good. I had that happen to me as well, they are just not the easiest to get right. I would use butt connectors instead. Red to red, yellow to yellow, black to black and it should power up.

It’s not rocket science but it is nice to have a clean adapter harness without bulky splices or butt connectors. I used to solder mine but now that I have all the oem connectors I just crimp direct. I imagine the crutchfield ones are pretty nice but haven’t ever bought one other than metra pigtails. Which, now that I know more about the OEM connectors, no longer feel nice enough to me.

Solvable problem, just take your time.

 

Like others have pointed out, those wire connectors are the issue. I can guarantee you that its a faulty connection and can easily be checked simply probing with a test light. Personally, replace those with butt connectors. The ones being used are a horrible choice and tends to be erratic in its connections, making diagnosing issues more time consuming. I totally agree with calling and buying the harnesses through Crutchfield.

 

Could be the way the harness is connected using those connectors.

 

This is where to start. I’ve spliced in head units before using scotch locks. Usually, with your problem, one of those 3 is the issue. A DMM or a test light will set things straight.

And I agree on the Metra adapters. $20 well spent. Currently using one on my truck. 16 years and no problems.

 

As noted, get rid of those splice taps and get the proper plug and play harness!

 

And another vote for this as long as you haven't chopped up your factory harness. While you're in your garage, grab that box of splices and toss them in the trash and you'll be much happier in the future.

 

The problem here is that the connecting wires are so small of a gauge that when crimped with those type of connectors, the only thing that's crimped is the insulating sleeve. You are better off going the old school route of manually twisting the wires together and wrapping with electrical tape.

 

@elduder help ?

 

This, I've been a fan of heat shrink tubing as well. I've swapped my head unit out twice in my truck but the harness has been installed since 2012 and I have yet to have a single problem with the connections.

 

Better yet, heat shrink.

 

Great minds homie

 

Welcome to TW.

for using those scotch lock bs splices.

Go buy some red butt splices and a real crimp tool from home cheapo.

Then, pay attention... There's info for the harness adapter. Info for the radio wires. 20 minutes and it'll be clean, without those ends sticking out and shorting out.

Good luck.lol

 

I've been reading all the threads on replacing radios, looking at Crutchfield (great products, esp. the Posi-Twist and Posi-Tap connecters that look much better than the ScotchLok taps, which looked dubious when we first saw them back in the late 1970s or whenever they first appeared). I was surprised to find Scotchloks at the auto parts store, and so was one of the OGs that I held the door open for as he was going back in to work. I asked and he managed to find a 7-pack, while I was glad I found a 25-pack to replace the old ones with as I was tasked with replacing the old aged interior light fixtures on a Dodge Sportsman Mini-Winnie with new LED lights. Mission accomplished as the folks it was donated to sold it to a happy new owner.
When it's time, I'll drive over to Aspen Sound or someplace to get the non-JBL radio replaced. Since some things have become more complicated, I'm more than willing to hire practiced assistance on those items. Before it turns into .

 

@dataco09

Do you have a voltmeter?

It's been a while and I dont frequent here as much. If I remember correctly though the OE side 12v wires should be the blue/yellow and grey wires.

 

I've also had good luck with the heat shrink butt connectors with the solder in the middle and adhesive in them (the marine grade).