Need help !Positive camber happened after 3" lift

Need 4 pics. One of each cam.

 

Can anyone tell me what's the difference between HD and STD jba uca ?

 

@Muddinfun gotcha . Thanks

 

*SPC

 

All of my reading on here before I got my lift pointed towards anything 3” or higher, after market UCA’s would be needed. But I also read that some people lucked out and didn’t need them. That being said I have light racing (spc) uppers. They get the job done for my needs. Got them from toytec.com. Good people to work with. @Toytec Lifts maybe they can offer an opinion.

 

HD are unnecessary unless you plan on jumping your truck on the reg. You want high caster standard JBAs.

 

Thanks everyone, you guys are awesome. I learned a lot from y'all. Hopefully this will solve the problem. This whole truck lifting thing cost me more than I expected , from needle bearing replacement to UCAs plus other unexpected cost. I was expected to spend about $2500 on these but will end up around $3500 and hopefully not more

 

The higher you go the more it costs. 3" from coilovers or spacers is the max and changes all the angles and problems start. You could also try cranking it down to 2" or so. I have a 2" in the front and rear (well 1.75" passenger front and 2.25" driver front) and is yet to have any failures or vibrations. You will be able to get a good alignment at 2" that drives nice and skips the UCA replacement.

It's a lot of money and hassle for an inch, I agree it looks great but functionally it doesn't change much.

 

@Sharpish if I would've know that earlier I would go for 2" , I don't care for an inch. I guess I'm learning in a hard way lol. One question ,I don't need to do anything with the lower control arm right?

 

Correct. LCA can remain stock

 

I don't know, but you need to call them and find out. If you get a non adjustable UCA like JBA, you need to know what their target caster spec is with 0 camber. On a stock Tacoma, the same adjusters are used for both caster and camber. That is often the problem because there is not enough adjustment to get both right. On a lifted Tacoma you need more than factory spec caster for the truck to track well. 3 to 3.5 is a good range, and your camber is best at 0. Make sure your JBA will get you at least to 3.0 caster with the camber set at 0.

Toyota has presented us with another trade off as well. The more caster you get from the UCA, the farther back in the wheel well your tire will be. The LCA adjustment moves the tire the other way, so try and get as much caster adjustment as possible with the LCA. All this dicking around is one reason that many prefer an adjustable UCA. A fixed UCA is fine IF you get the right one. Most of us go with bigger tires in combination with the lift, so we end up rubbing on the mud flaps or cab mount after properly setting the caster. You may need a cab mount chop and fender well work.

The last component here is finding a true alignment shop. A good alignment guy is gold. Ask around in your area and find a good one. If he has a few gray hairs, that is a bonus. It means he learned to align cars before a computer told him everything to do.

 

In response to the JBA specific comments, the JBA can easily attain 3.5* caster and 0 camber being a fixed UCA. There are guys that get even more. I prefer a fixed UCA because it's easier for a tech to work with. They do all adjustment at the LCA like normal, so an alignment is done like any other.

 

Agreed, and I think JBA makes a good product. I've got my SPCs sorted out now, but if I were starting from scratch, I would probably go JBA.

 

If the caster needs to be at 3-3.5 to get camber at 0 , that means it's out of factory, in this case I can't take it to Toyota for alignment anymore right?, I assume they wouldn't go out of their spec.

 

@Muddinfun

 

Mine did that too after i put 3rd gen coilover on (not that much tho). I took it to Firestone and they only put it within spec which didnt fix it. I was suggested an off road shop alignment to actually fix the issue. I havent done it yet, but you could probably try that route first.

 

You're not getting it. This is an alignment cam. Your truck has 4 of them. The cam in this pic is at the midpoint. There is room to adjust it in or out. The 4 cams are rotated to adjust caster and camber. Based on the position of your 4 cams, we can tell if they are at the end of the adjustment. Be sure to lable the pics. LF, LR.

 

Just as I suspected. They didn't even try!!!!!!

To start with, there is a lot of room to move the rear cams outward which will decrease camber and increase caster.

 

I have the same feelings, but I've been to 2 different places. I just don't understand why, they probably done wanna spend time messing with it. Sounds like everyone run into this situation