Need help to flush out old coolant out of the motor oil. Previously head gasket

I have a 2005 v6 Tacoma,
I recently had a recent blown head gasket my top ones, but changed all of them already. It was my failure not to change my ignition coils in time, so the pressure built up at start blew out my head gasket. Now, After all my gasket been changed, new water pump, timing chain, cylinder head machined, bearing, rod, so forth. I still have some left over coolant in my oil. How would I clean out my oil system, so i can remove the left over coolant. Should I drain, then keep the drain plug; unplugged then pour a bottle of motor oil to wash it out? Help me out guys!

 

Dont quote me on this but I've heard of people putting diesel into Motors and it acts like detergent and cleans out the motor but again not sure if this true or not

 

Lol, I'm too afraid to do that man! I should of cleaned out my oil when I had all the cylinder heads removed.

 

just change the oil a couple times after 50-100 miles then call her good. jmho

 

What about adding sea foam with every oil change would that help the process of cleaning out

 

Pull the pan and clean it than pour a few quarts through with pan off. Than fill and drive and change again after a short period and keep changing it until you feel satisfied with the job you did I guess???

 

I believe seafoam is made for getting old oil sludge/carbon out, not coolant. idk if that would help though.

 

I got this info from the attached link...good luck.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/193/oil-glycol

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2. Install new filter elements.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C). (not sure how you would accompish this without running the motor)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize. [/FONT]

 

Seafoam, or a bottle of atf fluid, you can't run if for long, like less than 200 miles. Same goes for seafoam, don't want to let it sit in your oil, Run it at the end of the oil change. You can also pull the oil pan.

 

If it were me I'd probably drop the pan and flush a court through the top, let it sit overnight with the pan off. Then in the morning I'd fill it up with 4.5 quarts of oil and a court of ATF (just for shits and gigs), run it for a couple days then drain and refill with cheap oil. Then after another couple days I'd drain that into a clean container and check the condition of the oil. Chances are I'd call it good. Chances are you're good after the first change.

 

Run your truck for a couple of hundred miles then change your oil and filter again. Anything more involved than this isn't really necessary and isn't worth the time.