Need Help Wiring Raptor Lights "check charge system"

Idiot me, did not want to wire "raptor lights" the way the majority of people seems to be wiring. By either splicing into headlights/drls or adding an add a fuse to the inside cab fuse box. I wanted to have the lights run of of there own switch that could be turned on/off at any given moment.

With my little knowledge of wiring it took me awhile but finally got the lights to do exactly how i wanted them. The lights turn on and off at any given moment the switch is pressed. The only part not set up yet is having the switch illuminate with the dash lights. I will leave that for later as i may have a bigger concern.

Now with it all being wired, once the truck is started i get a warning to "check charging system"

How Lights are Wired
I started by using a relay. The 30 pin is to the battery using 12 gauge wire and an inline fuse 25amp. 85 pin is to ground using 12 gauge. 87 is to "running4taco raptor lights" using a inline fuse 15amp. 86 pin has the wiring for the switch which is the only part i actually knew how to wire.I used CH4x4 switch, the green wire uses a add a fuse into the poweroutlet1. Red 1 runs to the relay using 18 gauge. Red 2 isnt connected as said before to not illuminate with dash. And last is the ground. Here is a rough sketch of how i did it,


The warning does go away once disconnect the relay from the battery. So my question is how can i go about having the "check charge system" from appearing. Does anybody have any suggestions?


The right amber light is not as bright as the center/left because the led is out. Will be emailing to have replacement as i just received them yesterday.

 

trucks not on. start it.

 

I have, message is still there once started

 

Are these trucks so smart they can tell the extra current draw?

Un hook the relay and put the hot wire of the lights straight to the battery. That would tell you if the truck is detecting the current draw or if the issue is in the rest of the stuff.

 

Diode in relay is in reverse bias...use a relay without a diode.

 

I’ll give that a shot. Basically just switch the 86 and the 85?

 

Just a thought now that I’m going through it all. Would it matter if the 2 online fuses are different. One is an atc and the other is a atm-lp

 

I`m missing something. Where/what is the "7.5 amp mini point 1"? I suspect that that may be the missing part of the puzzle. Otherwise, it should work, except for a couple observations. You'e made it more complex than needed.

Those lights probably use less than 1 amp total, so your fuses are way larger than needed. I believe that the switch is rated for 3 amps, so the relay is not necessary. A single 1 amp fuse on the battery lead should be all that's needed.

Even so, it still should work. Try disconnecting the "7.5 mini point 1" wire, and take that wire to the fuse side of your 25 amp fuse.

 

I wasn’t sure if i would be ok with running the wire straight to the switch, i may give that a shot. Since I’ve gotten a replacement sent for the broken light, i have not received an error message once plugging the new one in.

 

Lesson learned... you should always check the components (if possible) before installing. In your case, simply connecting the lights to a 12v power supply (battery) direct... right out of the package. Also, you could wire up the system temporarily before install (use wire nuts) and test to the battery first... helps with troubleshooting if your wiring doesn’t work as expected, or parts need replacing. Obviously we know now, the “bad” LED had some sort of internal short causing the issue.

Also, nothing wrong with using a relay on a low amp wiring solution.

 

This thread is old and dead but I want to chime in to spare anyone who takes on this project - some pain.

The proposed solution here is totally circuitous.

Firstly, I find it incredibly hard to believe that three little LED lights draw such amperage that a relay would be necessary.

Secondly, but relatedly, I do not see why (for the above reason) 12 gauge wire would be necessary.

Thirdly, I do not see why a simple add-a-fuse on a relevant fuse (I don't know which fuse to use in a third gen but this should not be hard to find using a voltage meter) can't be applied here instead.

Lastly, find a way to manage and protect your electronics, such as an Eaton Bussmann relay/fuse box.

 

just say no to raptor lights