Need help with brakes desparately!!!!

x2 on the dial indicator and OEM rotors only. Been in the same situation with aftermarket rotors many times.

 

On this truck does that mean I have to replace the entire ABS module? My understanding is that it is all built in?

 

Just a note also it is the left side (drivers) that is continually doing this. We dial calipered it and it is slightly warped already. (2 months after replacing EVERYTHING NEW….rotors calipers lines pads and bleeding system…torqued correctly….bedded. Runs perfectly and them two months in left caliper is warped. 5th set of calipers over last couple of years.

 

I don't believe your problem has anything to do with the ABS module. I like the idea of putting Toyota rotors and pads on. Be sure to completely clean any rust or anything off the rotor to hub surface. Be sure to use brake grease on the specific moving parts. Be sure to use new pad retention springs/clips. Break them in a little while then check the temperature of the rotors after a leisurely drive using an infrared thermometer.

Sorry but I have to ask, you don't drive with one foot on the gas and one on the brake do you? You'd be surprised how common that is.

 

I have done everything you said there. Except buy Toyota rotors.
I hesitate to do that now knowing that there is an issue on the left side. Not normal to warp the same rotor every two or three months. And I have been using the upgraded heavy duty ones the last several times.

 

And no I don’t drive with left foot on brake.

 

Or ride them. 90% of the mileage each day is actually road miles with the brakes rarely getting used.

 

Compare the rotor temperature left vs right. That can confirm if you have a dragging brake

 

Have done that a few times and have seen it hotter sometimes. Figured that there is a slight drag causing it to eventually heat up. But after replacing everything several times can’t figure out what would cause the drag.

 

If you don't have one, buy an inexpensive infrared pyrometer. I have one and use it more than one would expect.
After driving, check temperatures of your rotors, hubs, etc., from one side to the other. If there's a dragging problem that is causing things to warp, heat is involved.
I do this on my rear drums for a few weeks after replacing brakes to make sure I have things (the wheel cylinders) set evenly from one side to the other.

 

My first car had a caliper that wouldn't retract full because of a bad flex hose (hardline to caliper), that would cause the caliper to bind and the rotor to overheat.

 

x2 on the flex hoses
especially if they are from 2006. They degrade from the inside out, so they may look just fine on the outside.
But what happens is they allow pressurized fluid from the master cyl in, but are too restricted to let the fluid flow out; results in dragging or binding caliper.

 

This is a very commonly overlooked issue. Have to torque the wheels correctly and evenly. It CAN warp the rotors if not.

 

They were replaced last time…

 

Torqued correctly with torque wrench each time

 

I did and it is the left side warping

 

So after figuring that out again, we replaced everything rotors pads, calipers flex lines, and blew all of the fluid out of the system, and replaced it all! Two months later, left side, warped and shaking!

 

Its sounding like you have replaced everything except your ABS unit in the line. If everything else is new except that, then thats the way I'm leaning. I think if your repair shop has the computer tool that can bleed the ABS module, they should be able to activate it and see if its properly letting the pressure off.

 

Has anyone checked out the rear brakes. Are the shoes adjust right. Are the shoes glazed and hardly working? Also wouldn't trust napa brakes get something better