Need help with Long travel king COA and 6" DB

The Problem-
Current procrap coil overs have so much spring tension to gain height for 35s that the shock is essentially maxed with only 1/2" droop... Rides like a pogo stick. I have dirt king UCAs and am being limited in over travel by my shock length. All trimming that can be done has been and I would really rather stick to the rims and tires I have now.

The Questions-
1) Does anyone know the appropriate part #'s, spring lbs, length of king COA
to achieve the 8" of height that I have now without having to take a new spring and increase spring tension to get that height. I understand that with the angles and what I'm trying to achieve that no matter what, its not going to ride perfect but I know there is tons of room for improvement in performance.

2) ** and this is where I'm really going to get some crap**, How much of a CV angle is "acceptable." I'm at 10 degrees now and probably need to go up a little more so that I don't rub at all but I am unsure how much is acceptable. I see some pictures of those guys out in Hawaii with what looks like 45 degrees which can't be good.

I know this is an overland heavy forum and am going to get some flak for the DB, rims, and somewhat lack of knowledge regarding this. Just trying to avoid spending 2K on coil overs and having it still ride like crap. Any and all responses are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

I'm just here to say your truck looks great, and anybody that gives you flack for it should go get bent

 

I'm with that guy ^ bad ass truck, sorry I cant help with your questions tho.

 

@wmitch352
I suggest you get some baseline data & measurements before you venture in to the world of LT and different spring rates. It can get crazy, very confusing, and overwhelming. Having the following data is going to help you make a better educated adjustment.

-Fender to center of hub @ ride height
-Fender to center of hub @ full droop
-Amount of thread showing for both D & P side coilover.
-Spring length @ ride height
-Spring length @ full droop
-Shock length from mounting surface to center of eyelet @ ride height
-Shock length from mounting surface to center of eyelet @ full droop

and if you are feeling adventurous...
-Disconnect the lower shock mount @ full droop so if you have more droop available. (check CV's, tie rods, UCA's for be sure you have enough clearance)

If you have untapped down travel available, you may be able to simply modify your existing coilover to allow for more travel. Make it a "Mid-Travel/Sub-Frame" setup. The 1/2" of droop from ride height is going to add to the harshness, so any little bit of added droop should be an inexpensive way to make her ride as good as she looks.

 

wow thank you so much. Your input is greatly appreciated. I can definitely take those measurements. I think the last measurement with the unhooked assembly will be the most important in regards to purchasing a new setup if that's what I decide to do. Icon is on the list. Just need to get it over to a friends shop and get to in the air.

I think the real limiting factor is just the shock is essentially maxed out right now leaving my options to be a new assembly or the much dreaded, dare I say it.... stacking of a spacer on top and taking the tension back off that spring. Leaning towards the spacer on top instead of a $1700-$2000 pair of coil overs.

 

Dont go with spacers you will regret it and it make things worse. I wonder if the valving settings in the shock also just suck.

 

A 6" lift is NOT designed to work well at anything higher than 6" lift. If you are really at 8" lift, you are sitting at ~28" hub to fender with probably 28.5-29" drooped. Once you approach 29.5-30" drooped, the UCA will touch the coil, so that is the physical limit. You are currently maxing out the suspension system. A small spacer might give you a tiny bit of relief, but the honest truth is that you need to bring it back down to 6" or less for it to ride properly.

Your sacrifice is ride height for ride quality. You physically cannot have a properly functioning Procomp lift at 8" lift.

FWIW, I placed a 1/2" spacer on my RCD DB lift with "Pro-Comp" Kings. But that was only after LOTS of measuring, calculations and mock ups. I was also at 6" lift, so I had room to play with.

 

I know stacking lifts is much less than ideal but putting a 2.5" of lift spacer up front and reducing the spring tension shouldn't put too much of an angle on the CV and if I reduce spring tension be cranking the keys back up, should get me an okay ride, no? I'm sure these pro comp shocks are just crap as well. Believe me, I wish I could put kings under it haha. any insight is greatly appreciated. Don't want to make the wrong move here. Thanks again.

 

you've got a real point there. Sounds like going down in tire size is the best bet in all regards. Like you said I may be able to get something better of a ride quality but CV angles, extreme bump stop gap etc will cause another host of issues. If I unhook my coa from the bottom, the cv angles bind before the UCA touches the COA so I may be okay there. Just seems like more work than it may be worth. After all that, It will be higher in the front then I would need new spring packs or 5" blocks leading to driveline vibration etc. Appreciate the input and time man.

 

No prob. Personally I would go the free option and keep the tires, drop the lift down to 6" and get to trimming. Looks good with the big meats. Don't change tires if you don't need to.

 

the trimming has been done a few times over haha. it still rubs now at full lock.