Need help with some wiring

Thank you very much for the explanation sir.

And one last thing, Pin 11 of the switch goes to pin 87 of the relay? And since I'm not using 87a, I should cap it off with some shrink tubing?

 

If you put your fused feed from the battery on to terminal 87 there is no need to do anything with 87a.

 

This is a really good hands on representation. If you still need any help with these relays, I'd suggest doing a quick Google search and read a bit. Relays are really simple once you understand what they do and how they do it.

They handle more amps than switches and that's why we use them on systems that pull more power. You just have to feed them power from the battery, ground them, a trigger wire from a switch, and a wire to the component you want to power. There is a coil inside the relay and when you activate the trigger wire, the coil pulls down and closes the circuit from the battery to the component.

The ground and trigger wire can be a low gauge wire as not much power will pass through them. Depending on distance and the power draw of the component will determine the gauge of wire needed for the component and battery wires. For your application, you probably only need 16-18 gauge. 2 usb ports should pull less than 5 amps.

 

Thank you both, I printed out some stuff to look at. Never really messed with relays as the LED Lights I have on my truck came with all the harnessing and relays already wired up

Thanks again

 

@TRDProBuddy ,

This is like an introductory college course for what you want or are trying to do w your truck. Be safe, know and understand what you’re doing

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/


If you want to go that route, @Sandman614 sells prebuilt ones here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...mr-5relay-10fuse.400458/page-59#post-20404409

 

I needed this when I built my circuit. I did it all without a tutorial and spent many more hours than I needed to on it. I soldered many of my connections and my switches are wired through the firewall directly to my relays with no molex or weatherproof plugs. I will only add that the nylon loom is a pain in the butt to work with but the end results look fantastic.

 

Awesome, thanks @PzTank

 

Wow, very informative. Thank you so much for pointing me to this info

 

I hope I can get some help as your post directly relates to my problem. I just removed my factory Qi charger and replaced it with an Apple Magsafe charger using a PD adaptor for the USB C connection. All works great on the charging front but it semes that there are some interlocks on that factory connector. It has resulted in when I open my door, I have no instrument lights, smart key entry or rear view mirror. I am sure that there is something I need to do to jumper some of these wires on this harness or disconnect the harness completely for the factory charging. Any thoughts of what I need to do. Thanks so much.

 

Hey @jbirt, I have no clue what could be the issue as I installed my stuff onto a 2nd Gen and sounds like you have a 3rd Gen since you mentioned removing factory Qi Charger.

I basically added the Qi switch from a 3rd Gen and and my own Qi charger but only wired directly to the battery. I did not install it using any of the factory harnessing.

Sorry

 

Thanks for your response. To be clear, I am not using the factory harness. I tapped into the 12V wiring behind the cigarrette lighter, so I am tapped into the 12V. The factory harness is just tucked back. I did pull the fuse for that console when I did the wiring just so I would not short anything. I am wondering if there were any of those other wires in the harness that could have possibly shorted something. Do you have any idea what in the electronics would cut out the key locks, instrument panel, and rear view mirror upon entry and when the car is started everything seems to work.