Need help with wiring pods lights

So I just bought a aux beam 6 switch panel and I’m confused on how to wire my ditch light to one button on the panel
Do I have to cut and combine the lights together ?

 

Just run the wiring for both lights to the same + and - inputs for your switch panel.

 

How many amps do the lights pull and what is the amp rating of those switches? Are the switch amps rated at least twice or hopefully more of the lights combined?

 

So basically like splicing them together ?

 

I’m not sure It’s Baja design squadron

 

Kind of, but do not splice the wires physically. You're just putting them into the same input.

The switch panel should be able to handle both lights in one position. The lowest amperage rating on your switch panel is 5A in position 6, assuming you have this.

 

Just looked them up, nice lamps! Each of those lights use 3.3 amps (40watts/12volts). If you add two of them together, you will be over the 5amp limit of the switch. I’d run a relay to power the lights directly off your battery, and use the switch to power the relay. Get a waterproof relay rated at least for 12v 10amps, or one like this:
HD Switch 12V 40A Waterproof Relay

$15 HD Switch 12V 40A Waterproof Relay Replaces Kubota K1122-62260 - K3181-62330 w/LED Indicator Light & Dielectric Grease

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FTL1NC5

A big benefit of doing it this way also allows you to have only one small pair of wires (+-) going from the relay located in the engine compartment to the switch panel through the firewall to your dashboard, keeping the relay and larger gauge power supply lines in front. Also, the shorter the power supply lines, the more efficient they’ll be.

You also need to be mindful about what gauge wire you’re using; too small and the wire will get hot and not deliver enough power. There are calculators and charts online to determine wire gauge needed based on amps and length of wire needed (see image) - maybe use a 12 or better yet, a 10 gauge wire for the power source line between the battery, relay and lights, and you can use a smaller one like a 16 gauge or even smaller pair of wires (+-) between the switch and relay. Be sure to put a 10 amp fuse on the power source line between the battery and relay, best on the battery end. I like this type:Inline Fuse holder with Cap16 Gauge (Larger)

$8 3 Pack -12V Water-resistant Add-A-Circuit Blade Type Inline Fuse holder with Cap16 Gauge (Larger)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018W2T7XS
Be careful using the circuit breaker type of fuses, I’ve seen some of them not work and melt. Best to use a blade fuse that actually blows and does not depend on mechanical parts.

All this might be stated in the directions for the switch.

 

As long as they don't have the pro or racer series and don't use position 6, their switch panel should work just fine without all of that extra work. But I'm willing to bet they have the sport or SAE model which can run on position 6 without any issues at 5A.

 

Yes, it could work but He’ll be running more amps through the 5amp switch, not a good idea. Also, Shortening the power supply cables allows for higher amp circuit’s, and it would also make the dash look so much cleaner without having to run heavy gauge wires to the switch.

 

He can use any other position and be just fine though. Position 6 is the only one that's limited to 5A, all the others are higher. And the dash will still look clean.

 

I will second the suggestion to have your switch wired to a relay so the relay can handle the load to the lights. Relays power all of my accessories so all of the high energy stuff says in the engine compartment.

@ktbell444 Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware. I was looking for a data sheet or wiring diagram on the product page but couldn't find one.

 

The auxbeam contains a solid state relay...

 

@Bsb103 what @ktbell444 is suggesting is to crimp a lug on the wire from each light and stack the lugs in the terminal. I am starting the process of doing the same thing except with the 8 gang switch and I feel like that would be a tight squeeze. Another acceptable approach would be to splice the two wires together into a single wire, then crimp a lug and attach. But that adds a failure point if not done well.

 

The single wire was a concern for me because I'm not sure if the single wire used could handle the current draw. But yes, you are correct.

 

@ktbell444 yes, that would be a problem if you use the same gage wire for run between the splice and the lug.

@Bsb103 if you happen to go the splice route, use two wire gages larger than each single wire. I couldn't quickly find any info on the wire gages of the BD squadrons. Not even a bespoke stand alone harness on their website listed the wire gage. I suspect the lights come with 18AWG. Technically the 2x of an 18AWG wire is 15AWG in terms of mil circular area. But you'll probably have better luck sourcing 14AWG.