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Need LCA Help--Can't Clear Steering Rack to Get Cam Bolt Out!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by OG_Tacoma, Oct 12, 2020.

  1. Oct 17, 2020 at 4:42 PM
    #21
    OG_Tacoma

    OG_Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ***I had posted my project/dilemma in a couple of places online, and this forum has been the most helpful by far! I know there are already some posts here on LCAs, but hoping this one will help somebody out who's doing this job in the future.

    TIPS: If you're using Whiteline bushings (which is the recommended option to replace bushings), you can do a couple of things to help you out.

    1) First, use grease to install the metal inner sleeves into the bushings. There is some included in the kit from Whiteline, but I personally like Mission Automotive's silicon paste: https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Automotive-Dielectric-Silicone-Waterproof/dp/B016E5E59G

    2) I read elsewhere you can freeze the package of bushings overnight before installation, which hardens the poly and reduces the chance of damaging the bushings during install (plus, freezing could possibly shrink them slightly for easier installation, although I doubt it's noticeable). That's what I did. When you're ready to put them into the A-arm eyes, I decided to use anti-seize on the outside of the outer shells of the bushings--some online said do this, some said not...but I don't want the outer shell (metal) to be fused to the A-arm next time I do this.

    3) Lastly, the Whiteline bushing set includes loose washers, but they don't have the washers "fixed" onto the bushings like the OEM ones. So, once you have the bushings pressed into the A-arms, when you re-install the A-arms, you have to hold the washers in place during install. This can be a big pain, especially if your bushings are still frozen and don't have any "give" (consider heating them gently with a heat gun to soften and give you a little more wiggle room). My approach: I pushed the A-arms into the mounts and let it hang loosely, and THEN pushed the washers into the mounts--it's a very tight squeeze! I had to use a hammer and various sized chisels to get the washers pushed into the mount next to the bushing. It was really difficult to get the washer in the right place and lined up with the bushing for the bolt! This gave me a ton of trouble because it was so tight--anytime I moved the washer into place, it moved the A-arm positioning inside the mount too. I literally spent hours messing with this and trying to get the positioning right. I hope that's uncommon, but be prepared for this possibility. Either way, it would be a good idea to put anti-seize on the side of the washers that contact the mounts (for easier removal in the future).

    Again, hope this helps someone in the future.
     
    crazytacoman likes this.
  2. Oct 17, 2020 at 4:52 PM
    #22
    OG_Tacoma

    OG_Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @crazytacoman and @MNMLST

    I got all bushings installed into my old OEM A-arms on the bench vise, and then got the A-arm re-installed in the truck. Cam bolts are in the right position, lower shock is bolted to mount, LBJ is in place, and tie-rod in place.

    ***Last questions (maybe?) for the experts:
    1) Which of the above gets anti-seize and which get blue loctite? Obviously, I don't want to get them mixed up! I'm guessing loctite on all of those (anti-seize ONLY on cam bolts)--can someone confirm? I want to make sure my torque setting will be accurate.
    2) Which of the above gets torqued while on the ground (full weight to avoid binding)? I'm guessing just the cam bolts and the lower shock bolt--can someone confirm that?
     
    MNMLST likes this.
  3. Oct 17, 2020 at 4:59 PM
    #23
    MNMLST

    MNMLST Well-Known Member

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    tinfoil lined cab runflat headlights pee-thru seats
    I wouldn’t locktite anything.

    I would lightly anti-seize all sleeves, collars, shanks and faces, but not threads.

    Then I’d slide a little jack under the LCA, lift it to close to ‘ride height’ (with the truck still on blocks), and torque everything.

    Test drive to the beer distributor and check for any weirdnesses.

    In a hundred miles check all the torques.

    but that.’s just me and a I’m no expert
     
    OG_Tacoma [OP] and crazytacoman like this.
  4. Oct 17, 2020 at 5:09 PM
    #24
    MNMLST

    MNMLST Well-Known Member

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    tinfoil lined cab runflat headlights pee-thru seats
    I just did a shock bearing on my truck. Here’s my little screw jack under the lower arm to lift it up to ‘ride height’. The frame is still on the blocks and big jack.

    A99DF7EB-2F77-4847-810D-886B91C13258.jpg
     
    High Noon likes this.
  5. Oct 17, 2020 at 7:47 PM
    #25
    High Noon

    High Noon Monkeys and footballs

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    Dam! Something horrific happened to that first gen.;)
     
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  6. Oct 17, 2020 at 7:55 PM
    #26
    MNMLST

    MNMLST Well-Known Member

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    tinfoil lined cab runflat headlights pee-thru seats
    my purple truck was awesome....

    3A63745C-9453-40C7-BD3C-A021188E8133.jpg

    ‘til the ass end rusted off, about a month before Toyota started the frame recalls.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2020 at 8:00 PM
    High Noon likes this.
  7. Oct 17, 2020 at 8:17 PM
    #27
    crazytacoman

    crazytacoman Well-Known Member

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    Crap. I locktight-red the lower control arm bolts. And blue with the steering rack bolts.

    I only put anti-seize on the nuts/bolts that I had trouble with getting off at first
     
    OG_Tacoma [OP] and MNMLST like this.
  8. Oct 17, 2020 at 8:19 PM
    #28
    MNMLST

    MNMLST Well-Known Member

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    meh...

    loctite ain’t the end of the world.

    9E860B45-A9D5-4299-BB35-4603DFA0F3B0.jpg
     
    crazytacoman likes this.
  9. Oct 18, 2020 at 12:12 PM
    #29
    OG_Tacoma

    OG_Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. That's my favorite part!

    Makes sense. Sound like full weight of the vehicle is not needed to "set" the LCA then.
     
  10. Oct 18, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #30
    OG_Tacoma

    OG_Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    :eek: RED on the LCA cambolts? Don't they need to move for adjustment? LOL. I assume they'll be broken free anyway next time I go in for an alignment:rolleyes:
     
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  11. Oct 18, 2020 at 3:58 PM
    #31
    MNMLST

    MNMLST Well-Known Member

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    Well, yes, but no... I assumed your gonna get a professional alignment when you’re done (?). Which means the cam bolts will be adjusted at the shop.
     
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