Need new/used/remanufactured 2.7L engine

I am trying to figure out which is the best way to go.
I have a 95 tacoma 4X4 with a 200K engine with a blown head gasket. I would like to replace the engine with a newer one. 3RZFE 2.7L
Choice 1; APR Auto sells a new (supposedly made in the same factory as OEM) for $2300
Con? Customer complaint (on internet) that they sold him a rebuilt 22RE block with a new head. Turns out the head had a bent valve and bad seal and they offered to pay for a new valve and seal (parts only) after the engine was installed and smoking and the mechanic pulled the head off to find the problem. But it was not APR's fault because they bought the head from a 3rd party and it was the 3rd party's responsibility.
Choice 2; Yota sells a remanufactured engine for $3000
Choice 3; JDM sells a used 50K motor from Japan for about $1500

I am not interested in replacing the head gasket because;
1-been there done that on a 22RE rebuild twice. You end up tearing almost everything off the engine to get the head off. you might as well pull the engine.
2- You cannot easily resurface the block if you do not pull the engine
3- You still have a 200K worn engine
4- It is just as easy to put a new motor in as as old motor
5- To do a first class rebuilt on this motor I end up spending at least $2000 after all is said and done (machining, high end parts, etc etc etc) and I am slow compared to guys that do it all the time.

Am open to feedback.
Thanks for any help you can give.

 

Get on www.car-part.Com and find a low mileage motor in the us

 

I bought a new 3rz head from APR. Everything checked out and so far so good at 20k. I dont know how bad the overheating was but you might not need new parts. Do a leak down test and access the damage.

 

time for a V-8 engine swap

 

You own the truck, so it is up to you. If you are interested in a lot of information on the 3RZ and building it, check out my build threads on my 97 with a 3RZ.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rzfe-engine-rebuild-how-to.279164/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/97-tacoma-partial-restoration-engine-paint.211948/

 

Think out of the box: scour CL for a truck with a bad frame. (Should run <$1500) Swap the motor (and maybe trans/T-case) into yours, part out the rest of the truck to cover the cost, and sell whatever is left for scrap.

 

Hello VitoRoy, I have a 2003 Tacoma 3RZFE with over 200,000. Three holes have low compression. I too did the research as you did and found the same information. The APR auto salesman said that their new engines were from the same manufacturer as the OEM. I tried to see if this was true, but could not find information. I joined here too to see if any have had any experience with APR engines + future plans on upgrades. It's amazing that Toyota dealers do not offer crate engines for sale. Maybe we'll both get some input on this.

 

Hi
I spent days on the internet looking for an excellent engine. I could not afford $10 to $12,000 for a racing shop to build me a motor.I was open to paying up to 3k for an excellent job but I could not believe what is going on out there. Businesses lying over and over again about their product. The reviews and lack of followup was amazing.To be fair, I even ran into one customer claiming he got a motor that was frozen when he got it from the builder and did not figure it out until he installed it and tried to start it! You know he had to have forgotten to put oil in it. It is like a den of thieves and I am sure the dishonest builders are using the dishonest customers to justify their dishonesty.
I finally found a company that I have reason to believe is doing it right. I have been working on cars my whole life as necessary, so I should be able to figure out a good shop. These guys rebuild your engine and are getting all the work they can handle I am going to check them out more carefully and I will let you know. By the way the price for a long block was about $2300. I am going to have the damping shafts removed. I am told I will pick up some extra horsepower and that after 200K the bearings are suspect and that you really do not notice a difference unless you push the rmp's up while sitting still. I will let you know what I figure out.

 

with the three listed choices forget #1, for $700 more it makes no sense not to go
with the yota engine for peace of mind and warranty service if you have issues.

so the way I see it you only have 2 choices, the yota engine or the JDM engine from japan with "estimated mileages only" if you read the fine print and those are unknown type of miles, remember its an island so they don't go far but they could dog the shit out of it and could easily put 200k worth of wear on a 50k engine. did you see the Tokyo drift movie? cause ya just never really know.

I would buy a good running engine from a salvage yard and take my chances that way or rebuild your own. since you want to upgrade from 2.4 to 2.7 then remember you need to replace the ECM for a 2.7 one as well

 

Yota has bad reviews but I will say that the most straight up person I talked to was JDM. Trouble is you really have no idea what shape the motor in in. I am replacing my 89 toyota 22 re (has a well rebuilt engine with only 12k miles) and buying a 95 tacoma 2.7.

 

while I wouldn't rule out JDM its a big unknown your getting but I think its not a bad choice to make but a would feel better getting as motor I see and hear run at a savage yard with "honest" miles on the odometer you can see.

those pull your own parts places only charge scrap metal value for running motors so you can get running motors for like $750 with an exchange warranty if it has issues (just no cash refunds) so they are the least risky gamble in my opinion and worst case you get your money back in scrap metal value. plus you can get the ECM from the vehicle for that motor

 

Hi VitoRoy, I was leaning toward the APR as the price I saw online was $1900.00 with $200.00 shipping. I figured $2100.00 was not a bad price for a complete NEW engine. I too read the reviews and they were to mixed to make a decision. As Taco47 was saying he has had no issue with the new head that he has purchased. This is what I was hoping to here from members here. I have not checked my local shops on rebuilds yet. I do not want to go to a junk yard and purchase some one else's problem. Work to much as it is and don't have time for that path.

 

Why not buy a parts truck?

 

Are you just replacing engine or are you going after a little more at the same time? I was looking at the Marlin Rockcrawler transfer boxes and these seem to be the way to get a little more out of the taco. My plan is new engine or rebuild, new clutch, have transmission refreshed and maybe adding a Marlin transfer case with a low range set up. Will do axles later as this first plan alone will drain the fun money bucket.

 

Hello JarlAxle, not sure what a parts truck would cost these days. New to Tacomas. I've had mine sitting in the driveway for a few months and every young buck wants to buy it.

 

Hello Noofs
Let me share a little more info. These guys I am looking at have 3 full time machinists that have been doing this forever. They have figured out things like you bore the cylinders before you resurface the block because that is more accurate. They use new cams. They use top of the line pistons bearings etc. I am still not convinced but I have talked to mechanics that have used their engines for years and swear by them. I will finish doing my homework and fill you in. So far so good but I am looking for trouble.
Vito

 

Take your time, pay attention to details and you can do it yourself.

 

Hello VitoRoy, Just updating you here. I too called around to my local machine shops and discovered that one I had used many years back was still in operation. They did my 350 Chevy short block and at that time they did great work. Never had any issues with their build. They will go through head complete, they will go through block complete and assemble a short block for around $2000.00. They require $300.00 deposit to check and inspect all to make sure all is rebuildable. If not rebuildable I'm only out the $300.00. If all goes well I will assemble back into long block and install. I figure this route I will know exactly what I'm getting.

 

Hello Noofs
I think you are on the right tract. The one thing I would check out is whether they have done your model engine enough times to know the dos and donts of your particular engine. It is very easy to miss a detail that will haunt you later. One time I rebuilt my 22 RE and I did not know there is one spot on the timing chain cover that you have to be very careful not to oversuse the liquid gasket. The oil pressure will force a leak if not done correctly. Soooooooooooooo I had to spend a day pulling the front off including radiator etc to fix it. Now I know but my goal is not to know this stuff. My goal is to use someone else that already knows. Good Luck to you.
Vito