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Need some help from you wiring guru's!

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Diego1931, Jun 27, 2016.

  1. Jun 27, 2016 at 4:49 PM
    #1
    Diego1931

    Diego1931 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey Guys

    So I am looking to install a cell phone booster in my truck. I don't mind doing the work (I actually prefer to so I can learn and I can fix it if something goes wrong). I need some help with figuring out how to wire it in. I want it to be as clean and professional as possible. From what I have looked at and figured out I think I have 3 options:

    Option 1: Power off a fuse from the panel (add a circuit)
    Option 2: Run off an empty slot on the fuse panel
    Option 3: Run power from the battery

    Unless I really have to I don't want to run off of another fuse. I would like this to be separate from any other system on the truck, so that is a last ditch option. Ideally I would like to run off of an empty slot on the fuse panel. This is where I need the help. Is that easier said than done? If I run off an empty slot how do I hook my wiring into the panel? Do I have to take it out? And what size fuse do I need? I still have to do some looking into what kind of spares are on the truck, as I don't want to tie into a spot and have the booster on all the time. I want it only to be on with the ignition. The only other option that I have would be to run directly off the battery through an inline fuse to the switch that I would mount in the cab. What do you guys think would be my best option? You guys haven't steered my wrong yet! Can someone explain to me what exactly a relay is and do I need one?
     
  2. Jun 27, 2016 at 4:56 PM
    #2
    MoQS

    MoQS Well-Known Member

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    My question to you is this going to be the only upgrade you plan on using? If not, you may want to look into a separate fuse/relay box.
     
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  3. Jun 27, 2016 at 4:59 PM
    #3
    Pportera

    Pportera Well-Known Member

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    Option 3 is what i would do. keep it clean, sleek and separate from the factory fuse box.
     
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  4. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:02 PM
    #4
    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    This. Not just for a clean factor but keeping aftermarket wiring separate from stock wiring avoids any dealership saying you caused an issue due to wiring.
     
  5. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:02 PM
    #5
    horstuff

    horstuff Re-member

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    ^^ This. Add a new separate fuse block off the battery (with an inline fuse right at the battery positive for the block feed wire), maybe 4 slot so you can add future stuff. Don't try to dink with the factory block, not at all worth it and way too many variables. Make it simple on yourself.
     
    Diego1931[OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:04 PM
    #6
    MoQS

    MoQS Well-Known Member

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    I think we all said the same thing in different ways.
     
  7. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:18 PM
    #7
    Diego1931

    Diego1931 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Maybe, maybe not. This is the only one that I have planned for the truck, aside from maybe a power inverter down the road for in the cab, but I think that would have to be run directly from the battery anyway? Anyway, those would be the only two. I don't know if a separate fuse box would be worth it? How expensive are they? Can you get small ones that one have 4 or so slots? I am liking this more and more to keep it totally seperate, if for nothing else than to save me hassle down the road from the dealer, I really like that.

    I am not sure 100% on the numbers, I will have to find that out. I do know that the system I am looking at is designed to be plug and play, in that the external antenna, internal antenna, and power are meant to be removable. Basically the booster itself is powered of a 12v cigarette adapter, the external antenna is magnetic on the roof, and the internal one is mean to stick to the side of the seat for best reception. What I want to do is hard wire the power to a switch on the dash (ideally one that matches the OEM ones, I have one open spot beside my ECT switch), mount the internal antennae out of sight but very close to the qi charging pad (so everything works wirelessly), and mount the external antenna under the hood (so that it is not mounted outside, but with enough wire so that if I am in a really bad area or out in the bush I can just pop the hood and plop it on the roof).

    This is the unit I am currently looking at. If I don't go with this exact one it will be one that works identical to this:
    Wilson 4G-LTE Booster Kit
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2016
  8. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:32 PM
    #8
    Diego1931

    Diego1931 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just looked it up, and the manual says that booster specifically requires 5v 2.5a. If I plug this into an aux fuse panel that is wired off the battery, that would be 12v. Would this only draw the 5v? Or would it be overloaded. Not sure how that works...
     
  9. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:34 PM
    #9
    MoQS

    MoQS Well-Known Member

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    #9
  10. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:37 PM
    #10
    Diego1931

    Diego1931 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  11. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:37 PM
    #11
    horstuff

    horstuff Re-member

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    If you don't want to buy a separate fuse block, just run off the positive terminal of the battery, with an in-line fuse near the terminal, and go to town.
     
    Pportera, TRDinOhio and MoQS like this.
  12. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:38 PM
    #12
    horstuff

    horstuff Re-member

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    Relay is to step up available amperage or voltage. A small trigger input flips a lever and allows a large output.
     
  13. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:42 PM
    #13
    916TacoTruck

    916TacoTruck BallzDeep is how I go

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    The unit runs off of 5vdc. It draws 2.5a. The unit comes with a 5v power supply that has a cig lighter adapter. Cut the cig lighter adapter and use the two wires to whatever 12v source you are gonna use.
     
  14. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:43 PM
    #14
    MoQS

    MoQS Well-Known Member

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    And protects the switch from the large output.
     
  15. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:43 PM
    #15
    horstuff

    horstuff Re-member

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    There you go! Just make sure to fuse the positive wire at the battery in case it gets pinched somewhere.
     
  16. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:45 PM
    #16
    horstuff

    horstuff Re-member

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    Yessir, relays can go both ways. There's a bad joke in there somewhere.
     
  17. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:54 PM
    #17
    Diego1931

    Diego1931 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So the power supply would convert the 12v to the needed 5v, and it would draw the 2.5amps. So if I run from the battery to a small aux box or an in line fuse, then to the switch, then to the power supply that will work? I can just cut the cig adapter off and wire off those? How do I know which is positive and which is the ground? Hard to tell from looking at the molded cig adapter which wire goes where. Alright. So here the other questions. Where do I find a cheap aux fuse box, what size fuse do I need (smallest is 5a right?), and where do I find nice switches? I can find fuse panels on amazon but they don't look like what I think I need. And I was looking at nice switches for LED bars etc on Amazon but can't seem to find them now?
     
  18. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:56 PM
    #18
    916TacoTruck

    916TacoTruck BallzDeep is how I go

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    A relay is a control device (electromechanical switch). If you have a high current draw device that a typical switch can not handle that specific current rating, then you would use a relay to control that device. Larger wires are used on the load side of the relay to carry the higher current draw to the device. A switch is used to turn the relay on and off since the relay doesn't draw a lot of current to operate.
     
  19. Jun 27, 2016 at 5:58 PM
    #19
    916TacoTruck

    916TacoTruck BallzDeep is how I go

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    Instead of cutting the cig adapter, you can disassemble it. The positive wire would be the center pin of the cig adapter. The metal tabs on the side of the cig adapter is ground.
     
  20. Jun 27, 2016 at 6:03 PM
    #20
    Diego1931

    Diego1931 [OP] Well-Known Member

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