Need some help with 3rd gen EVAP Codes

Got a 2019 TRD offroad tacoma with 116k miles a CEL and some EVAP codes

P2402, P2401, P2419, P043F, P043E

I recently purchased a vapor canister and leak detection pump assembly off one of those salvage deals (USED) on ebay ~100$ and installed it a week or so ago.

The clips on the backside of the canister were an absolute nightmare but I managed to get the picks in and get the stuff swapped.

The truck ran a few on off cycles and then threw the same codes again when it ran the Evap system self test.

I'm at a loss here. Debating on just biting the bullet and getting factory new parts on the off chance I got a dud from the salvage place.

I haven't leak tested anything but
P0441 or P0442 are the codes for large and small leaks and I'm not seeing either of those codes.

Any insight would be helpful thanks!

 

Couple things? How did you clear codes? Those are usually a hard code, simple codes reader's can't remove hard codes completely. They will come back. Crap shoot on used evap part's, condition unknown.

 

Don't know what symptoms you have but I was getting the check engine light and my rpms were going up to 1k in drive and running rough on startup. Disconnected battery, restart and ran normal for a few miles then engine light and symptoms again. Stopped to get fuel and cranked normal but no start. Let sit and on 4th try it started rough but ran. Took it to dealer and it was throwing a fuel management code (don't know exact code). Turned out to be a vacuum switching valve assembly #25860-0P090 which controls the volume of air or fuel to the engine, part of the evap management system. Gets dirty and needs replacement if needed. Fixed my problem and might be what you need to look at. And I don't think I'd be using used smog equipment if you don't have to. Part was around $100.00.

 

star with a leak test.

here are areas to check based on your codes

 

Repair solutions reader I got from advanced auto for like 80$

It lists them as pending, stored and permanent.

When I clear them the stored and pending codes are wiped but they still show as permanent but the CEL isn't on. When it runs the self test 5 hours after driving when the condition are met it "re-trips" those codes to pending and stored because the problem is still happening. Apparently my used canister and or used EVAP leak pump are bad or there something else going on.

 

Thanks man. I was considering buying a cheap smoke system on Amazon to pressurize the system and check for leaks using the smoke.

 

Don't really have any symptoms except for the CEL and maybe slightly worse MPG/ fuel economy. Haven't noticed any driveabilitly issues. All of the codes are related to the EVAP system specifically the EVAP leak detection pump and possible the canister and or solenoid.

 

That reader is not wiping codes. It's temporary clearing them. It doesn't have capability to completely clear them. So when it goes through evap check/test they come back. It needs to have proper codes/evap reset. Salvage system you installed can be good. It needs to go in to dealer, or service center that has proper equipment to reset/clear codes. An $80 reader/scanner can't do it.

 

Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Codes (PDTCs) in a Toyota can only be cleared by fixing the underlying issue that caused them and then driving the vehicle to allow the monitor to re-run. PDTCs are designed to stay in a vehicle's electronic memory until the problem is fixed, and they can't be cleared with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery.
After making repairs, the vehicle should go through a "confirmed fault-free monitoring cycle"

The PDTC will clear itself once the monitor runs without identifying a problem.

The dealers themselves can't clear permanent codes. There's no magic code reader that can clear permanent codes. They are stored in non volatile memory and even disconnecting the battery isnt enough to wipe them. You would have to physically desolder the memory from the ECU and replace it with a like unit to "clear" the codes. The system has to re-run the test on the failed component and it has to clear itself after the ECU determined the problem condition no longer exists. It keeps people from wiping codes with a cheap scanner and handing them off to used car dealers or in for trade in at a dealership.

I'm 100% sure my code reader isn't the problem but on the off chance it somehow is I will try having a shop clear them.