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need some help with some stuff for my front LT soon to come set up.

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by 97yota4wd, Jun 16, 2011.

  1. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:02 AM
    #1
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Eric
    Mesa, AZ
    Vehicle:
    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    so i will be getting the following...
    camburg LT kit.
    Tundra 1st gen axels
    TC spindle gussets
    shock tower mount gussets
    i will also be gusseting my motor mounts ETC.
    i will be strapping it at 12 inches of travel i think.

    So now is where i need some help.
    when going with hydrolic bump stops, whats the difference between king/fox? nothing?

    also do i need 4inch, 2.5 bumps, 4 inch 2.0 bumps? which ones and why??

    and for bypasses for the back i am pretty dam sure im going to go with tripple bypases. but most run double.

    i will be fully caging my truck, running 2 spare tires, 32 gallon jaz fuel cell, blah blah. so i will have alot of weight so tripple bypasses are a must correct?

    i will have alot more questions for the rear later on..

    thanks in advance!
     
  2. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:05 AM
    #2
    BFA

    BFA Nuttier than squirrel shit.

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    i was reading up on fuel cells youll want to get a fuelsafe fuel cell cause they have the fuel bladder inside and crap which is an absolute must for racing so your better off saving the money and picking that up instead
     
  3. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:06 AM
    #3
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc

    what do you mean by fuel bladder??
     
  4. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:07 AM
    #4
    BFA

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    also i thought the 2.0 bumps are 2in travel and the 2.5s are 4in?
     
  5. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:08 AM
    #5
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc

    Must.... do... more.... research.
     
  6. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:09 AM
    #6
    BFA

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    fuelsafe has an internal bladder that holds the gas the tank is just the protection for it and it will actually prevent leakage in a rollover jaz fuel cells and others like them dont have that they say they have roll over vents but they dont work like the bladder. its a requirement for racing.
     
  7. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:10 AM
    #7
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
  8. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:11 AM
    #8
    BFA

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    just looked it up the 2.0 and 2.5 bumps come in 2 and 4in travel
     
  9. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:12 AM
    #9
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    dang thanks ill make sure to get that one!
     
  10. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:12 AM
    #10
    BFA

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    i would go 2.5, im going with 2.5 everything on my truck for peace of mind and if i ever wanted to upgrade something later i wouldnt have to worry about upgrading to 2.5 if the 2.0 parts couldnt handle something....

    but im no expert
     
  11. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:13 AM
    #11
    BFA

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    dude just pm mjp2 hes got all the answers and lives on tw
     
  12. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:14 AM
    #12
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc

    ok so im going to go with 2.5s.

    now for bypasses....
     
  13. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:15 AM
    #13
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    lol i pmed him yesterday asking some questions, if i dont get my answers answered here ill ask him later, dont want to bother him too much ha
     
  14. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:19 AM
    #14
    BFA

    BFA Nuttier than squirrel shit.

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    pfft he lives for TW..
     
  15. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:24 AM
    #15
    BFA

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    Depending upon make and model, some bypass shocks can offer multiple tubes to the shock body, typically one for rebound and one for compression. Some of which have multiple, adjustable check valves to control the metering of compression and the metering of rebound.
    Adding fuel to the fire, yet another reason why bypass shocks are the best of all dampeners is because they’re not only velocity-sensitive like all other shock absorbers, but they are also position-sensitive as well. What does this mean? Simply put, these shocks can use a variable metering system that allows the shock to offer a much softer rebound and/or compression rate initially, and increase the dampening effect as the compression or rebound increases, similar to progressive coil springs. The really cool part? If you have the cash, all of these aspects of a bypass shock can be built to your needs and adjusted based upon the type of wheeling you do.

    just found that.. might help you out
     
  16. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:35 AM
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    BFA

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    another thought is to give DSM a call and ask them which bypass you should get for your application and which would work best for your truck and lt set up etc
     
  17. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:47 AM
    #17
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Staff Member

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    Did someone say my name? :spy:

    For the front, you want 2" diameter, 2.5" travel bumpstops. With IFS and the bump striking on the LCA, that 2.5" travel will translate to over 5" of travel at the wheel.

    For the rear you'll want 2" diameter, 4" travel bumps because the travel is linear.

    The fuel bladder thing was covered above but I'll reiterate because I like to hear myself talk. ;) Racing organizations require a metal fuel cell of a defined strength, and within that they require an approved bladder to contain the fuel in the event that the metal can gets punctured. In addition to that, the rubber bladder is filled with foam to minimize any fuel spray in the event that both the can and bladder are punctured.

    If you're building for racing, buy the rulebook for whatever race organization and build to their safety specs. Generally, if you build to SCORE specs you'll be fine in any sanctioning organization. You'll also want to pick a class so you know you meet the rules while building, or run Sportsman (basically run what ya brung) so you can build your dream truck without worrying about rules beyond the safety requirements.

    Your bumped and strapped travel numbers will be determined by CV binding. Make sure you set the suspension limits before hitting the CV limits or you'll have an expensive mess on your hands after awhile.
     
  18. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:48 AM
    #18
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Staff Member

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  19. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:56 AM
    #19
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Staff Member

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    By the way, the reason I recommend 2" diameter bumpstops for your truck is twofold.

    1. Your truck isn't heavy enough to necessitate 2.5" bumps. Those would be for a fullsize or trophy truck weighting 6000+ lbs.

    2. You'll have a hell of a time fitting the coilover, bypass shock, limit strap, axle, and steering linkage on each side even without the bumpstop. Squeezing a 2" bump in there will probably require a custom gusseted tab coming off the end of the LCA as it is. The 2.5" bump would require some Harry Houdini work to fit with everything else.
     
  20. Jun 16, 2011 at 8:57 AM
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    BFA

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    omg i love information..
    i <3 mjp2
     
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