Need wiring assistance with Spec-D aftermarket projector headlights.

Hi there! I am new here and hope that I am going about this the right way. I recently purchased a set of Spec-D projector headlights (with sequential turn signals and an LED light bar within the housing) for my 2006 Tacoma TRD Sport. I have everything installed and connected, however, the provided wires for the LED light bar/sequential turn signals have to be spliced into the "power wire" in the truck according to the included instructions.

The installation video from the manufacturer was clear on everything except this vital step. I have no experience with electrical work, and I just do not want to attempt anything based on "guesswork" out of fear of messing anything up.

Here is the product page: https://shop.redline360.com/product...ta-tacoma-sequential-05-11-black-smoke-chrome

Here is the installation video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRSAKhRpL9Y&t=14s

In regards to the attached photos, the first one is the instruction sheet provided. Steps 2-3 are comically easy but step 1 is what I am having an issue with.

The second photo contains the provided wires and crimping tools.

Lastly, the third through fifth photos display a piece with 3M tape on the back of it. I have no idea what this is nor what it does. The installation video nor the provided instructions touch upon this piece.

Thank you to anyone for reading this and taking the time. I appreciate it and I am happy to now be a part of this community.

P.S. I searched through all reviews of this product and it looks like everyone else got it working but no one explained how they did so.

 

While I’m not certain on the correct way, because I can’t figure out how it knows to turn the running lights bar to amber, when you turn the signal on?

I’ll go ahead and say, I don’t care for those taps they are using.
I’d rather do a proper splice, that way I don’t have any problems later.

I did find this in the reviews?

 

Hi, TnShooter! Thanks for your time and your reply.

That review helps a whole lot! I guess I overlooked that one when scrolling through them all.

I do have a couple of questions though (coming from someone who is just now learning how to modify my truck) if you don't mind.

1. What do you mean by the "taps" they are using?

2. By proper splice (I've never spliced wires in my life, unfortunately) do you mean using electrical tape, and the correct tools, such as a crimper, butt connectors, etc.?

Thanks!

 

The taps are the red things pictured below.
A butt connector would be better, followed by heat shrink. (Electric tape would do “Ok”)
The best would be a soldered connection.
If you don’t feel comfortable stripping, crimping, and using heat shrink.
Then go ahead and use the provided taps, it just my experience that they usually give problems later.
The plastic gets brittle and cracks, the connection is so small that corrosion can causes issues, I just don’t like redoing things later. If I were going to use them, I’d at least wrap them in electrical tape to help keep moisture out.

@Jimmyh @Muddinfun

 

Gotcha, gotcha! I guess now the only thing I have to figure out is how to get the tiny red wire provided connected to the parking lights (green wire). I believe that green parking light wire is located beside the internal fuse box.

So I guess I'd have to purchase a longer wire with the same gauge, connect it to the red wire and then run it through the firewall to the parking lights (green wire)?

Thanks for your patience through all this. I just wish the instructions were clearer and that the installation video showed this crucial step. I am literally having to drive without turn signals on the front...

Thank you again.

 

I agree with TnShooter on this. I hate doing things twice. I am a huge fan of soldering and heat shrinking. Those damn wire taps just compromise the integrity of the insulation and generally cause issues later. A good solder connection and heat shrink will not fail. And as a compromise butt splices work well as long as they are properly crimped and if in a weather environment ( under the hood ) they need to be sealed also. What I do for butt splices in exposed areas is get some liquid insulation and seal the ends of the butt splice.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Star-brite-Liquid-Tape/1001312836

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Black-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-4-oz-LTB-400/100119178

 

There should be a parking light that goes into the headlight assembly.
It’s the light that comes on with the parking/tail lights (the first position on the headlight switch).
It’s not uncommon for the bulbs to be burnt out, but the wire should be green.

The turn signals should be Red/Black and Red/Yellow. Don’t use these.

Again, the parking light bulb uses a green wire.

 

I agree that those wire taps (Called Scotch Locks) can be problematic - especially if you live in the rust belt. They tend to promote corrosion inside the tap. If you must use them, I can offer two suggestions based on personal experience. 1) Apply a dab of corrosion resistant grease to the metal tab at the center of the tap before closing and locking the tap. This is the part that actually cuts into the insulation and makes electrical contact. This will prevent corrosion and thus the problems that are typical with this type of tap. Or 2) Apply a dab of RTV to the same spot to perform the same function.

 

See here for parking light.
It’s the OUTSIDE one.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/parking-lights-not-working.191532/#post-18172823

 

Much appreciated! Seriously, thanks be to all of you for taking the time.

Now I know where to splice and how to do it. I’m heading to Lowe’s right now to get a soldering kit and some other things that were recommended.

I’ll keep you all posted!

thanks again.

 

I don’t have time to read the whole thread, but since I was tagged, I’ll post real quick. Scotch locks are horribly unreliable. It’s like patching a leaky roof with duct tape. Like connecting copper plumbing with super glue. Like rebuilding an engine with only vice grips.

 

Hey, did you end up splicing these correctly? What wire did you tap into?