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Needed: someone with quad/electrical experience (N. Phoenix)

Discussion in 'Arizona' started by Packman73, Apr 22, 2013.

  1. Apr 22, 2013 at 3:07 PM
    #1
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    The free state of Arizona
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    Bilstein 5100's (front set @ .85"), OME 885's, chris4x4 anti-Taco-lean spacer on driver's side, Total Chaos UCAs, Rear Leaf Spring TSB, Toytec AALs, Black FJ TT Wheels, BFG 285/75R 16 AT Tires, TRD Exhaust, Viper Alarm, Fog Light Mod, De-badged, Blue LED Dome Light, EZ Clamped Tailgate, Wet Okoles, Satoshi Grill, 5% Tint, Engine Tick Fix, Black Rear Bumper, Black Center Valence, Exhaust Cut At Axle, Thanks for all the help chris4x4!
    Update: wiring figured out, turns over but won't start.



    I have a '95 Polaris 300 4x4 that had some 'work' done before I got it. The key was MIA so the ignition was removed along with the choke.

    I think the kill switch on the handle bar didn't work so an external run/kill switch? was installed. It ran just fine this way.

    By the time I took possession, the switch was ripped off and I have no idea which wire goes where.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  2. Apr 22, 2013 at 3:44 PM
    #2
    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    That switch you have looks like a typical switch. So I'd assume the wiring is:

    Ground
    Wire to motor/kill
    wire for illumination (if it lights up)

    Pull the tape off the switch it should tell you where ground is and the switch wire goes.. Play with it and see what combo works.
     
  3. Apr 22, 2013 at 4:03 PM
    #3
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    I was thinking the black one was a ground, a red one for power and another red to carry the power to the starter button? Is that totally wrong?
     
  4. Apr 22, 2013 at 4:03 PM
    #4
    ASUAviator

    ASUAviator Well-Known Member

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    Theres your problem... its a Polaris!! Get a Honda, love life. Naaa like AW said, play around with them and find which it is. itll take less time then it does for someone to drive there
     
  5. Apr 22, 2013 at 4:07 PM
    #5
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    The quad was free so...;)
    I didn't want to 'blow something' by messing with it but maybe I'll mess with it at some point myself. I've zero electrical knowledge.
     
  6. Apr 22, 2013 at 4:09 PM
    #6
    Forster46

    Forster46 Very nice how much?

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    You're right. Black is probably ground. Try that first. Then plug in the other two and if it doesn't work, swap them.
     
  7. Apr 22, 2013 at 4:12 PM
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    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    What part of Az are you in? I might be able to swing by and lend a hand.

    Does the switch light up?
     
  8. Apr 22, 2013 at 4:13 PM
    #8
    dman597

    dman597 Well-Known Member

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    is one ot the plugs different color? I you take the electric tape off does it say anything?
     
  9. Apr 22, 2013 at 5:10 PM
    #9
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    I may try that.

    Union Hills/7th St, N. Phoenix. I don't really want anyone to go out of their way but I will compensate. ;)


    I'll check right now.
     
  10. Apr 22, 2013 at 5:38 PM
    #10
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    No markings but... I'm starting to wrap my mind around this. I checked continuity on the switch and found the two ends to have continuity and the center seems to be the ground. I'll hook the battery up shortly and see what happens.
     
  11. Apr 23, 2013 at 10:05 AM
    #11
    rhavin42

    rhavin42 Well-Known Member

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    Did you get this figured out?

    The switch looks like a lighted SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) where the light turns on when the switch is turned on.

    You should have 3 connections. Power, ground, and load. (the center connection would be your load) or what you want 12v supplied to when the switch is on.

    I'm going to make a HUGE assumption here and say that in your picture black would be ground, red would be +12v and red/white would be the load. That's how it SHOULD be wired up. But who knows what this guy did before you.

    I'd also recommend if there isn't one there already adding a fuse somewhere in the +12v supply to the switch.

    I'm up in the N valley I pretty much drive past 7/union daily on my way to/from work if you need a hand.


    [​IMG]
     
  12. Apr 23, 2013 at 11:29 AM
    #12
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    Thanks for replying! I have not got it figured out yet. I'd love a hand if I can't figure it out.:eek:

    This is what I was about to post:

    Ok, if the prongs from left to right are A,B & C then;

    with the switch off I have no continuity at all;
    with the switch on, I have continuity with A & C and B & C but NOT A & B.
    Which one should be the ground prong and which for the red?

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Apr 23, 2013 at 11:45 AM
    #13
    Smoove06

    Smoove06 Well-Known Member

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    The middle pin will always be the "LOAD" terminal. Either end can be the "GROUND" and "HOT"
     
  14. Apr 23, 2013 at 11:57 AM
    #14
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    Thank you.:)

    I'll get there, I'm just a little slow. ;)
     
  15. Apr 23, 2013 at 12:05 PM
    #15
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    And to be clear, "Load" is where the power is going?

    Also, one red wire connects next to the black (ground?) wire and the other red wire connects a few inches away(down). Should I be able to I discern anything from this?
     
  16. Apr 23, 2013 at 12:11 PM
    #16
    Smoove06

    Smoove06 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, "Load" refers to what you are trying to turn ON/OFF.

    It might be safe to assume that the 2 wires that are closely connected to each other are the POWER and GND wires, but again it is just an assumbption. Use your volt meter to verify.
     
  17. Apr 23, 2013 at 12:22 PM
    #17
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    Ok, will do. I'm waiting for my new battery to charge at Autozone...
     
  18. Apr 23, 2013 at 1:52 PM
    #18
    rhavin42

    rhavin42 Well-Known Member

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    Something with your continuity test doesn't sound correct. If you have cont Between A&C and B&C that means you should also have continuity between A&B the fact that you don't doesn't quite make sense.

    Since:
    A is connected to C and
    C is connected to B
    A must be connected to B through C.
     
  19. Apr 23, 2013 at 3:02 PM
    #19
    Packman73

    Packman73 [OP] ^^^^ 3%er ^^^^

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    I might need a new switch or a new tester. ;)
     
  20. Apr 23, 2013 at 3:04 PM
    #20
    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    You are pretty far away from me (I'm in Chandler) so I'm not sure when I can make it out there.

    I'd get a new switch just to be on the safe side.
     
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