Needle Bearing - Yes, Replace It (ECGS)

That's fair. In Sacramento area I'm doing them for $200 plus parts but I don't have to leave my house hahaha!

 

Just got five more bearing and seal sets to put on the shelf for locals haha! Been a busy month!

 

Do u need specialty tools to pull the older bushing?

 

Highly recommend the tools sold by ECGS. For removal and install. If you search, some people will rent them out to you for free. Just have to pay for shipping. Lots of them floating around out there.

 

I Second @Superdave1.0
A blind puller set works too but the ECGS tool is the easiest

 

Ok, so I loaded up on some cuban coffee ☕ and built up the courage. I started at 10:30 am and one hour later I'm ready to install the bushing. Removal was not that bad, if you do it the way that @MyWyfsRnnr showed in the video, it is crucial to get that bump stop out or your space will be very limited.

 

Ok, so the ECGS bushing is in, but it didn't go all the way, it was going smooth until it wasn't. I don't think is going to be an issue, I can see the rubbing marks from the needle bearing on the axle shaft and there is a little more than 1/4 that stays outside. 30 minutes banging on that sucker, I think it made its point.

 

The bushing will bottom out, can you take a pic so we can see if it’s in enough? The CV axle also can get hung up on the snap ring when you are reinstalling it, it can be a pain to get past that. I used some grease to keep the snap ring centered

 

I did take a picture, I think, but it will stick out about 1/8 of an inch. Reinstalling wasn't that much of a pain I turn the axle until it sorta clicked, you can feel it and then grabbed a flat chisel and smacked like 3 times and it felt into place. Finally done, less than 3 hours it isn't hard but definitely uncomfortable, just take your time, prepare everything before hand and don't rush it.

 

I still prefer removing the CV axle from the vehicle completely. You don't have to remove the bumpstop in that case. You get more room to work since the cv is out. You get more room to work since you can swing the knuckle way out of the way since no CV attached. Million ways to skin a cat I guess.

 

Yeah. The only catch to pulling the CV out is the large socket a lot of home mechanics might not have and torquing it to 174ftlb. Lots of ways haha! I did it once with the wheel and tire still on because the guy lost his wheel lock and I didn't want to ruin his lug nuts haha!

 

So to finalize, I was able to put it all back together and refill the differential fluid, Toyota definitely under fills the differential since I only leaked a very small amount and after I was done it took almost a quart of oil, drove around for like 20 minutes and checked for oil drip on the seal and it is all good. I feel it drives better, I have to get on the highway, drove a few miles in 4hi and everything is working as it should.
Thanks to everyone who contributed in this thread, shout out to @MyWyfsRnnr for the video and to all the others who posted pictures and gave advice.

 

I have all the tools from ecgs from my install if anyone wants them or needs them.

 

What he said, I also have them if anyone needs them.

 

Just ordered a pair of bushings, one for my truck, another for my parent's 2nd gen and the removal and install tools. Having a low speed whirring sound from the driver front at below 20mph, so it may be the wheel bearing also ordered that as well, will diag this weekend and hopefully get these replsced shortly.

 

I had my needle bearing replaced by @MyWyfsRnnr. He did a great job. I'd highly recommend.

I have since needed to replace my axle a few times and and thought I would share. I have found all I have to remove is axel nut and the 2 bolts at the bottom of the lca. I tap on the axel to seperste it from the spindle. I then swing it out of the way and sit it on something. I found it easier to remove and insert when it is level so I use a cam strap hooked to the uca. I remove my skid to knock axel out from the inside closest to the diff. OEM axels have these nice little grooves that a long pry tool can be used to hit. I have also found that if you jack this side of truck up as much as you can, like more than needed you will spill very little oil.



Here how much oil was lost.

 

I got mine done this past weekend and took the truck for a quick test drive (actually just taking off the trash).

The rotational vibe is gone but now I think I’m feeling a slight shimmy/almost a very slight wobble at around 45-50mph. I did not remove the axle on install, just unbolted the sway bar link and the 2 lower ball joint nuts. Torqued back to 52lbs on the link and 118lbs on the ball joint nuts. I’m 100% sure the axle is seated properly. The bushing went in perfectly flush as did the new seal.

The only thing I may have messed up is that I torqued the lower nuts when still on the stands. I think I’ll break them loose tonight and retorque with wheels on the ground.