New 2010 tacoma 400 miles check engine light on can't drive it Sucks

Went to take my new 2010 with 400 miles on it and the check engine light is on and looks like the hill assist light below it is also on. Book says to call dealer and not drive it. I am sure it is minor and monday they will have me drive it 25 miles in to them but not the reliability i wanted from toyota. The 2007 Rav we bought new had zero problems. The 2010 Rav we have now we bought new went back several times and had a not dealer tire shop find the problem. Is this what i am to expect from toyota now. Maybe i should have bought a Ford truck this time. Our old 97 toyota had 198K on it and zero problems. Just frustrating. All my friends see my new toyota's going back to the shop and sure isn't good advertisement for toyota now. See what happens monday and like i said i am sure it isn't much but the new truck sits now.

 

When Ford stated in a commercial that their quality was equal to Toyotas, I had to think, when did Toyota forget about quality?

 

That second light is the slip indicator light. It comes on when the check engine light comes on so your issue is most likely not in relation to that light.

My CEL came on as well right around the 450 mile mark for my truck but we (dealership and I) have since determined the issue was caused by the TRD CAI I had installed in it. TRD is still working on the problem so it has since been removed and am waiting on a solution.

If you have recently gotten gas, it could be a loose gas cap. As you mentioned though, it is most likely something minor...good luck

 

X2 on the gas cap. I installed an after market cap that wasn't doing its job and activated the CEL. Simple fix- replaced it with the stock cap and problem solved. Disconnected the battery for 5 min. and CEL went out. Everything on your Toyota is basically within the computer memory so any little discrepancy will activate the CEL. This doesn't mean you can't drive your truck. If it doesn't want to be driven it will stop. Systems will shut down and it won't go. Yahoo for computers and modern technology. Sometimes can be a pain in the ass!

 

That's not really the best advice to be giving. Systems will not shut down. The truck won't stop and tell you not to drive it. The on-board diagnostics systems reads input from all the sensors and a check engine light comes on when one of the sensors is not relaying the correct signal. It's there as a warning system. Most of the times you can drive around with one or more sensors not working properly. The ECU will try to adjust to the problem as much as it can, but the problem will still eventually need to be fixed. If one or more injector is not spraying out enough fuel then you can burn up a piston. At that time the only thing that's going to stop is your engine. At which point you'll need a rebuild/new one. That's just one example.

My advice is to go to an auto parts store and have them read the check engine code. They'll tell in which system the problem is. Then you can decide if you want to drive it.

 

wouldn't he have to drive it to the auto parts store.

 

Thanks guys. I did put on an aftermarked gas locking cap seeing toyota doesn't have a cable operated door on this model. It was off one of my older vans. Seemed to work for awhile fine so i thought it would be ok. I keep wondering if that was the problem and even put the old cap back on. Never thought about disconnecting the battery to reset it. Thanks guys and sorry if i came off pissed. Just seems that all my other five toyota's came with a cable door gas flap and this is the most expensive and came without it. Wonder if toyota makes a locking cap that works or do i go get a new aftermarket cap? These days a person has to have a locking gas cap or flap. thanks and i will go try disconnecting the battery. Is what a good site and good guys do for each other here

 

Its under warranty!!!!!! I would drive the hell out of it and not worry. If it breaks it on Toyota. Have you tried to reset the light. Like when the truck is due for a oil change.

 

You were right about disconnecting the battery. I had put a locking aftermarket cap that i had used on car i had before on this truck and it fit and worked for a couple tanks of gas so i thought it was fine. Wondered if it was the cap so put the original back on and thought it would solve the problem if that was it. Never thought to disconnect the battery. Makes sense now so it is all my fault and not toyota but still don't understand why they didn't put a cable operated flap like they did even back on my 97 corolla. Now i will go to the dealer and ask if they sell a locking cap or do you think an aftermarket shop will have one for a new toyota that will also work? My cap was an older cap. Thank all of you guys and hope sometime i can contribute something to help Works now

 

2010 JD Power ratings have Toyota below most GM nameplates. Ford is currently occupying territory on those serveys that lexus used to own. Companies learn lessons and improve, and companies get complacent and sit back on their laurels.

Toyota is not immune from this, and neither are the Detroit automakers.

Knock on wood, my Tacoma has remained solid with 7k on the clock so far. I DO wish the clutch/started interlock switch would not "disengage" from a slight reduction in pressure on the clutch pedal.

 

Can't believe Toyota doesn't put a lock on the fuel door. Cheap bastards.

 

Ya see you probably took that damn cap off a Ford and jinxed the Toyota !

Hey you got to read the fine print :

Ford Brand Now Has the Highest Initial Quality Among All Non-Luxury Brands in the Industry

It's after the first repair bill that usually gets everyone pissed ! They forgot to say the survey was taken as people drove off the lots.

 

My CEL came on Saturday afternoon then it went off on Sunday... 09 TRD OR 16K. Even though the light went off the next day do you think I should have the dealer look at it? Can they even pull up what the problem was?

 

No, it's the gas cap, plus you killed the fault code now. They will just give you the using non Toyota parts speech.

Ok forget that, Different guy different error. Ya they will be able to retrieve the code and tell you exactly what tripped it. Up to you if you bring it in or not.

 

Find someone who buy one and use theres.
I have old ond and everyone at work ask me to plug the unit in to get the code and see what need to get fix. cost ($60 - $200)

I had a old GMC truck and light keep come on. it was miss fire
GMC if you start and let cool down cold then start up three time It will clear the light. Non-code

this is first time with toyota. I do not know if toyota have that program code in there computer?

 

Yes, just like he would have to drive it to the dealer. I did not say he could not drive it. I was simply stating that there is no auto shut down when something is wrong with the vehicle. It shuts down when something breaks. That is what the check engine light is there for. It tells you that something is wrong. Fix it before it gets worse. It could be a small vacuum leak. In which case, he can drive with the light on forever and it will not cause any substantial damage.

 

Was a heat of the moment mentioning buying a Ford. Really the problem was my fault putting on a older locking cap. Once you guys told me to disconnect the battery the check engine came off. Now i have been to about 4 auto stores trying to find a locking cap that will work. At least now i know what models will work on it i think. Still pisses me off that toyota failed to put a locking or cable door latch on this model. There lies the root of my problem to begin with. Have to go pick my buddy up after he leaves his Chevy truck today because of repairs and he has about three codes lit up on his truck. None are immune to modern tech. Ahh the good old days with fewer lights to come on. Toyota parts dept here doesn't list a locking cap. You would think all of them would by now. Moving ahead is their slogan now. Maybe they are leaving something behind. Like common sense.

 

You are incorrect:

 

I am glad you got your problem fixed with the gas cap & your new truck.
One of the things I found out here on the forum is in the snow belt salt regions over time the gas door hinges gum up really easily, bend and then snap off (especially that bottom hinge).

My gas door bottom hinge misaligned before breaking, but some have had that hinge break. I had Toyota check it out before my 3/36 ran out & the part covered in the extended warranty is just that black latch, not the hinge.
This is my experience so watch the hinges if you are in the snow belt.

 

This is the kind of post where Tacomas get a bad rap. Some one changes something and then starts screaming bloody murder about Toyota quality.
Lots of ill advised mods on this site. Need to take everything said here with a grain of salt.