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New 4-banger owner, looking for recommendations...

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by 0uTkAsT, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. Mar 1, 2011 at 9:15 PM
    #1
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Hey guys, I just bought an '06 4WD 5-speed 2.7L Taco (single cab, base model) and would like to get a little more performance out of it. Not expecting much, it is a 4-banger after all, but I'd like to do some simple things to squeeze what I can out of it.

    What I'm looking for info on is:

    -Part numbers for drop-in mufflers (Magnaflow or Dynomax preferably...). I'm aware that the factory ID/OD is 2.25/2.25" but I haven't gotten to measure the length of the factory muffler or check the offset of the inlet/outlet.

    -Info on installing a header... Is it doable for a guy with limited space in an apartment complex or is it "hidden" and difficult to remove/install?

    -Possible gear swaps. I'm unaware of the factory ratio (3.56?) but from my limited experience driving the Taco I can see I'll be wanting lower gears and I'm open to recommendations on where to get the parts and what ratios to choose.

    -Info on the factory intake. I've had a CAI on every fuel injected vehicle I've ever owned but from the sounds of things there's a "mod" that can be done to the factory intake to improve performance? How is this any better than a CAI, besides the price?

    -Any other simple/cheap tricks you guys can throw my way.

    I really appreciate any and all help in advance. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I searched around prior to posting and didn't find what I was after specifically.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Mar 1, 2011 at 9:20 PM
    #2
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Almost there

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    AFE pro dry s, Husky X-act Contour
    remove secondary air filter, replace air filter with afe pro dry s. LCE and DT make a header, I have DT and FREAKING LOVE IT!

    If you plan on getting bigger tires do not waste your time with cai intakes, full exhausts and such; do it right the first time and save money and disappointment by re-gearing.
     
  3. Mar 1, 2011 at 11:34 PM
    #3
    Minitaco

    Minitaco Member

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    Derek
    Sunnyvale, CA
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    Stock now, but not for long!
    Yep, pretty much regearing is the best way to go for feeliable power, but adding headers, and exhaust will only add to the fun factor.

    Right now you have 4.10's in the rear. You could move to 4.56's, but with stock tires you'll rev out on the freeways. Around town it would be fun. I would say lift it, put some bigger tires on it (255's or 285's) then regear and add headers, exhaust, ect...You'll have a cool, capable ride that can get up and go!

    From what I've read its very easy installing headers on these trucks. I did them on my Tundra, and after that everything has to be easy lol!
     
  4. Mar 2, 2011 at 5:34 AM
    #4
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Hey guys, thank you both for the input! I really appreciate you letting me pick your brains!

    I'm still not understanding how a panel filter is any better than a ~$250 aFe intake? Not trying to be a dick or anything, I'm just wondering if there's a specific reason other than the cost involved.

    I plan on doing all of the above, not one or the other. Also, I'm not planning on a full exhaust, just replacing the muffler to let it breathe a little better and get some tone out of the exhaust. I'm not digging the buzzy, raspy factory exhaust, but I don't want some ricey fart pipe either.

    Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not in on the Taco acronyms yet. What is LCE and DT? I'm assuming DT = Doug Thorley but LCE... I have no idea what that is.

    Any ideas where to purchase the parts for re-gearing? And are they factory parts or aftermarket? I am already running oversized tires, although I'm not sure what size they are exactly (I'm guessing 265/75 or thereabouts).

    While on the subject of tires, what is the most cost-effective way to recalibrate the speedo? Is there a plug-n-play tuner on the market that can do it? My last truck only had +/- 5% of adjustment in the factory computer so I had to buy a tuner to make the proper adjustments. I live in Photo Radar Hell so having an accurate speedo is kind of a big deal. I definitely do not need any more tickets :(

    Good to hear about the header. I've installed big-primary long tubes in big-block A-body Mopars (which involves cutting fenderwells, welding tubes, disconnecting steering boxes, clearancing pipes, and lifting the block about 3" to do) so I'm not afraid of the work involved but I also had a shop to do all that in. I don't have that luxury any more due to a career change, so everything I do has to be able to be done from a piece of cardboard, with hand tools, in the confinements of a parking space. :D

    Hope I'm not asking too many questions or coming off the wrong way. Old car guy trying out a new platform = tons of questions. :eek: Thanks again for all the help!
     
  5. Mar 2, 2011 at 6:32 AM
    #5
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Almost there

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    I live ib the area ill help you with the header install. Just google LCE engineering

    There is no reason to pay more for what you already have. From the factory the intake draws air from outside the engine bay, the fender.

    If your looking to buy some parts stop by at desert rat on rural and the 60 and say hi, just got a job there lol
     
  6. Mar 2, 2011 at 7:36 AM
    #6
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Sweet, I live like 10 minutes from there. Congrats on the new job, too.

    I'm all for saving money and I'm also aware the factory airbox is located near the fender well, but isn't the factory airbox, lid, and piping restrictive? Or does the stock 2.7 just not suck enough air to make a difference with higher flow parts? This is my first 4-cylinder ever, so I guess I have un-learning to do if that's the case.
     
  7. Mar 2, 2011 at 10:29 AM
    #7
    CruiserATX

    CruiserATX Member

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    I'm in a similar situation - I've got an '03 SR5 4-banger and am about to put bigger tires on. I know the BFG AT KO's are heavier than other ATs, but I still want 'em...I figure I'll lose about 1-2 MPG with the switch, but I was wondering how much acceleration I'll lose too? Will a new air filter solve a lot of that or should I look at re-gearing as well?
     
  8. Mar 2, 2011 at 11:09 AM
    #8
    Minitaco

    Minitaco Member

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    Stock now, but not for long!
    You can get the gears from here. Only aftermarket:
    http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList...odelID=404&Side=Rear&DriveType=4WD&DiffID=240

    I bought my ARB from here and they were the cheapest and fast shipping. I've heard Nitro Gears are good also, google that and you'll see.

    About the intake, I would do the easy mod of removing the the 2nd filter and put in the AFe. You can save a few hundred $ and put that money somewhere else. Or if you have the funds get one, there nothing wrong, they sound cool! Just stay away from the one that seal to the hood when closed and get one thats fully enclosed (volant, URD, ect) like stock.
     
  9. Mar 2, 2011 at 1:05 PM
    #9
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Almost there

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    Ya aftermarket intakes have less restriction and a larger diameter tube BUT a smaller diameter tube will increase air velocity while a larger tube has more air but at a slower velocity. When your trying to cram air into a n/a engine especially as small of an engine as ours, I think the stock tubing is much more efficient in this way.

    This is just my 2 cents and I guarantee someone will disagree with me lol
     
  10. Mar 2, 2011 at 5:35 PM
    #10
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Thanks again! Any word on the muffler? Anyone have specs on the stock unit i.e. length, style, I/O offset?

    Thanks for the info/link! I really appreciate it.

    That's reasonable, and makes total sense, although I'm sure tube diameter was factored in to the calculation for peak volumetric efficiency when designing the intakes. Everything is computer pre-engineered nowadays, so I doubt the increase in diameter is significant in reducing velocity enough to offset the improvements in flow and reduction in turbulence. In any event, I'm guessing the difference is probably only 3-6 hp max over a drop-in, which is clearly nothing to write home about. However I am still leaning towards the CAI considering I'm going to be adding a header and higher flow muffler as the improvements in power and throttle response for intake and exhaust mods compliment each other. $200 is a big difference in price, but I'd rather do it and be done with it or it will always bug me if doing it the "right" way would have made an improvement. :rolleyes:
     
  11. Mar 2, 2011 at 5:51 PM
    #11
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Almost there

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    If I was to go Cai I would hand down go AFE, I do not like k&n personally.

    If you plan on doing the going with all those look into the URD MAF, mass air flow calibrator. Gadget can time it to work with the nods you gave to help achieve the most performance from the mods.
     
  12. Mar 2, 2011 at 6:02 PM
    #12
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    That's not a bad idea. I may just do the drop in/filter delete and add a cheap pipe to eliminate the baffles.
     
  13. Mar 2, 2011 at 7:04 PM
    #13
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Sweet! Another project for tomorrow. Thanks!

    As promised, a couple pics I snapped this morning:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Mar 2, 2011 at 7:27 PM
    #14
    Tacoyota

    Tacoyota senile member

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    4.56 gears, rear trutrac,DT header, 235/85r16 Duratracs, 2nd filter pulled, inter.wipers, Cruise control, Factory alum. whls/winter tires(2nd set), Afe pro Dry-S , Dumbo eared flaps cut down.
  15. Mar 2, 2011 at 7:50 PM
    #15
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Thanks for the link to that writeup!

    I'm ready to order the aFe and a new muffler already so I'm still anxious to hear what factory replacement mufflers you guys have used.

    For you guys who have re-geared, what kind of RPM can I expect to run at @ 65 MPH with 4.56s and a 32" tire? I just checked and the tires currently on my Taco are 265/75-16s = ~31.6" if I'm not mistaken.
    Edit: 08pretaco pointed me in the direction of a calculator for this, and with the 4.56 gears and the current size tires I have on it I'd be turning <3k RPM @ 75 MPH. A little high but not as bad as I expected!

    I know, I'm a question whore. :eek:
     
  16. Mar 3, 2011 at 10:31 AM
    #16
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Ok, just went out and crawled around under the truck for a while. I confirmed that the piping is 2.25" all the way from the header flange to the tailpipe and the entire system is mandrel bent, which is fantastic. The factory muffler is 21.5" and has no offset (straight in and straight out) which means any straight-through muffler will work...

    I referenced a ton of mufflers through Summit and came up with a MagnaFlow #18125. It's a glasspack with an 18" body and 22" OAL so it will be a perfect factory replacement muffler for this truck (I won't have to add any extra pipe to achieve the same OAL as the stock muffler while still reducing the length of the body to 18"). Cut the old one out, weld the new one in, and done.

    The other thing I noticed is this truck has what appears to be two cats. I'm thinking about removing the after-cat. Has anyone done this? Are there any sensors later on down the system that might throw codes if the secondary cat is replaced with a straight pipe?

    EDIT: I just ordered my aFe dry filter, got it for $33 shipped on eBay. As soon as it gets here I'll be doing the intake mod. :)
     
  17. Mar 3, 2011 at 11:03 AM
    #17
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Almost there

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    1 is a cat the other is a sound resonator
     
  18. Mar 3, 2011 at 11:04 AM
    #18
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Ah, that makes more sense.

    The more I look at the truck the more I think it could use a leveling kit on the front. I may pick up a pair of 1" or 1.5" coil spacers to give the front end a little boost.
     
  19. Mar 3, 2011 at 12:12 PM
    #19
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    Just called and got a quote for the re-gearing, $1,400 front and rear, ouch! Looks like I'll be saving up for that one...
     
  20. Mar 3, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #20
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT [OP] Gunslingin' Gearhead

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    Stuff that makes it easier to run over other stuff.
    I feel pretty accomplished today. In addition to fixing a problem with the wife's POS car, I got the dealership's ugly vinyl decals off my tailgate (easier to do than I thought it would be), did the charcoal 2nd filter delete, and also did the fenderwell baffle delete. I could definitely hear the difference after removing the baffle and the 2nd filter, but I haven't really gotten to drive it much. I also fixed the shifter boot, which was all jacked up somehow by the previous owner.

    I placed the orders for my muffler and aFe filter to complete the intake & exhaust mods... They'll be here next week. Got a couple vinyls of my own on order too. I'm still debating whether I want to buy a leveling kit or not.

    Thanks again for all the help and advice I've gotten so far!
     
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