New 8.75" rear axle in non-trd?

Actual photos of the 8.75” e-locker third out of my truck. I had the third replace under warranty for the howling issue. Do not believe that 2nd gen axle shafts would swap in but you can count splines for yourselves. I count 32 splines and I noticed that the axle diameter is also larger. The axle is substantially larger than an 8inch or the “8.4inch” which is still an 8” that has a brace on the bearing caps. Is it a Dana 60 no but is is it stronger than a 2nd gen axle yes.

Confirmed by this.

https://www.randysworldwide.com/differential-identification/toyota-8-75-rear/




Left to right Toyota 4cyl 8.0 inch, Toyota v6/turbo(now current in 3rd gen automatics), 8.4 inch 1st gen Tundra, 1st & 2nd gen tacoma.

 

Thank you. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear and see. That's the extra beef I was looking for without going overboard. I'm pretty sure ECGS can find a cut to length 32 spline shaft to fit that even if one isn't available off the shelf.

 

So then wheel bearings etc. are also larger to let the bigger shafts through??
When I compar d prtnumbers a while back they were the same but maybe that was just bad info

 

All the important things are upgraded on the 8.75" rear. Ring gear is larger and has 12 bolts instead of 10. The pinion gear is a 34 spline 1.77" diameter. The 32 spline axles are 1.37" in diameter. The housing tube diameter is also increased.

 

The splines on these are at a 90* pressure angle if I recall correctly. Most off the shelf cut to length axles are at a 60* keep that in mind.

 

If you end up getting mine, it'll have the axle shafts, hubs, brakes, etc all with the axle.

 

I can't see any reason why I won't. I've got the money and I'm curious as hell to see if I can make it work. I like being the test dummy on stuff like this

 

Right on. I'll hit you up when I start tearing the truck down.

 

Hell, you saw how strong the axle is at AOP when I got airborne where @JimboAnz blew his rear diff up. I should have broken something there.

 

Yes you should have. Remind me to make sure that thing is still straight. Somehow you made it through that mud hole after that and I had to winch. Still trying to figure that one out. I"ll be able to air down more now, just order dual beadlocks to go with my surplus 37s.

 

LMAO, the axle is straight, I already checked it out. My bed however, is no longer straight.

And, I'll add that I towed Jimbo through that mud hole. LOL.

 

Ehh neither is mine.

And I wasn't gonna mention that but I hadn't forgotten it. I swear I'm going back there just to try that again.

My crawlbox install is almost done anyhow. That should make wheeling a 6speed at AOP a lot easier. Those hill starts were a pain in the ass

 

Dude, I smoked my clutch something fierce up there. Just replaced it with the URD Stage 2 and HD flywheel a couple of months ago.

Pull the clutch accumulator and replace it with a hard-line. Makes the clutch a bit more grabby.

 

Mine was fine, but I don't know how.

Learned a couple things at AOP:
I needed to install my crawlbox
OME springs ride like shit offroad
I need beadlocks and rock rings cause I couldnt air down much and I bent 2 out of 4 rims
Don't neglect you brakes. Cause it sucks when they blow up


Wrapping things up but should have all that handled now.

 

Yeah, AOP was the final straw for my SAS decision. I'm done with IFS.

That trip was the first real test on my ADS coilovers and I was really impressed with them. I had the OME nitrochargers before and the coils would unload so hard. The 63 swap is awesome on and off road, I just wish I hadn't bent my driver side leaf pack on that trail.

I have the wheels and rock rings for the axle swap on hand, just haven't gotten around to doing anything with them yet.

 

It appears you guys know alot about these things. I just bought a 2019 TRD Sport 4X4 not knowing the advantages of the OR. So before I r&r with 5.29 gears, I'm thinking about upgrading to the 8.75 rear end. I assume I just need to make sure its an 8.75 non OR and I assume I'll be able to find a locker for that 8.75. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

Any rear end from a manual truck will have the 8.75" differential. If you get a rear end from a OR you'll get the OEM locker, and you'll have to figure out how to wire it. Otherwise ARB is your only choice for a locker which IMO has its benefits over the factory E locker, just a matter of $$$

 

I do not want to deal with trying to wire the factory e-locker. From what I read I need to take it easy with my current 8". Is going 8.75 really going to be worth the $$$ as far as dependability.

 

Supposedly it's stronger, however I can't really say how much stronger and whether it's worth it or not.

 

The weak point in the ARB is the air line. I have seen a lot of issues with air leaks that disable the locker. Whether that is normal wear, abuse, or bad install are up for debate though.