New AC condenser replacement tips?

I just completed the replacement of the condenser on my 2005 double cab using the tips on the thread and everything worked out great. I just wanted to add a couple of things I learned since I went ahead and charged the system myself.

First of all, I found a Denso condenser on Amazon for just under $80 shipped from amazon.

$99 Denso 477-0839 A/C Condenser

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-477-0839-A-C-Condenser/dp/B00PYR1QT8

I followed the instructions listed above by jellybelly22 and was able to swap out the part in about an hour and a half without removing the bumper cover and loosening the radiator without any issues. I also ordered a set of O rings like Benny123 suggested.

My old condenser was damaged by a rock on the highway which pierced a hole in the condenser which evacuated the system.

After replacing the condenser, I decided to charge the system myself using some YouTube videos as guides.

I rented a vacuum pump and a set of manifold gauges from autozone and purchased a bottle of PAG46 oil and two 12oz cans of Freon along with a can tap and thermometer. The system called for 5.5oz of oil and up to 22oz of Freon.

Getting the oil into the system was a pain because the condenser was already installed. Some tips I’ve seen is to add the oil in the service hose but that was taking too long and the hose didn’t hold the entire amount I was trying to add. My solution was to add it into the top inlet of the condenser. If I had to do it over, I would have added the oil before installing the condenser. Also, make sure not to overfill the system with oil depending on what parts you’re replacing. I added around 4oz which may have been too much considering I was only changing out the condenser.

I then followed the instructions on the video by checking for a vacuum, letting the system hold the vacuum for about an hour, then if the vacuum held, continuing the vacuum process for an another hour before beginning to charge the system.

I then added the Freon required. One issue I ran into was that my A/C light didn’t come on when the vehicle was turned on with the a/c running. Because of this, the system took the first can of Freon but didn’t kick on the compressor to draw the rest of the Freon and allow the second can to be introduced into the system. This was an error on my part for not making sure the a/c was working.

I quickly found that I had a blown 10amp fuse found in the fuse box under the hood which prevented the a/c from kicking on. I replaced the fuse with the spare provided under the fuse box cover and the system kicked on allowing the Freon to turn the compressor on.

I added the second can to get the 22oz and everything was working fine.

After disconnecting the manifold gauges, I noticed I had a small leak in the high pressure shrader valve. I went to autozone for a shrader valve repair kit which included the shrader valve tool, a shrader valve for the high and low pressure valves and caps. Using the tool, I slowly unscrewed the high pressure shrader valve until a small amount of Freon began to exit then tightened the valve shut which fixed the leak. I’m guessing that the manifold gauge attachment for the high pressure valve may have loosened the valve allowing the leak.

My suggestion is if you decide to charge the system, grab the schrader valve repair kit before you begin the process and make sure your current valves are in good shape. I would have probably just replaced the schrader valves from the start since it’s only about $4 for the kit.

At the end of the day, I spent around $150 for the condenser, O rings, oil, Freon, can tap and thermometer; much less than the $670 I was quoted by a local shop.

Do this job at your own risk. I’m not a mechanic and am merely sharing my experience.

Here are the videos is used as guides for the system charge.

https://youtu.be/bSzH_9blVO4

https://youtu.be/Pdq8JAlct6s

https://youtu.be/lglPJuBXVeE

 

If You only replaced the condenser, I think you only needed 1.4 oz of pag oil added to the condenser.
The majority of pag oil is still in the compressor if you only had a leak in the condenser. Did you also replace the compressor?

 

Good point. I believe I added around 4oz since the system had been open for a while and the condenser has the receiver/drier integrated. A little more research on my part should have been on knowing exactly how much oil I should have added.

 

I understand the research bit, I’m doing the same because I need to replace mine also. I’m collecting tools and parts now.

 

thank you all for the info. I'm about to replace the evaporator and condenser on my 2010 taco 4x4 V6. if you have any other tips you can offer or if you ran into any issues what were they? Do you recommend me replacing anything else? How and where do you add the Tag oil?
Thank you in advance.

 

Hey Benny

Thanks for the info. Im about to replace my condensers on my 2010 taco v6 4x4 for the first time. Do you have any tips or suggestions? Did you add the Tag oil into the condenser, & if you did where & how much did you add? Thank you in advance.

 

@sgnz It went smoothly. Just make sure system is evacuated by a service station, take your time getting condenser out. Get new seals.

I used 1.4 ounces IIRC, based on this thread. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pag-oil-capacity.504661/

Once installed, I used the Chrisfix and Kflo videos to recharge. Take you time and follow all the steps. Always note which valves are open and closed and where the flow will be. At least it will be done before summer.

 

There's a filter in the expansion valve at the firewall. You may want to inspect that too.

 

Is this the one? I’m changing my leaky condeser seal washer soon and thinking of changing the filter since it’s only a $2.50 part from Rock Auto. Is this filter a pain to change?

 

That's it.

 

a year later and my AC is still running cold!

 

Always flush

 

And put the seat up when you're done!

 

I’m on the home stretch. Just put in a new condenser, valve cores, O Ring and seal washer. Also added 1.4 oz of pag oil for the condenser and a touch of dye.

 

That's great. Did you check your air temps at the center vent after you were all done? Just curious because after I finished it was at 40°F last week and now it's 44°F.

 

Yes, It was right at 42. But it was my wife’s cooking thermometer with a cracked face, I’m not to confident in its accuracy. I need to buy one and check it right.

 

Get a pressure/temperature chart for 134a & compare. Your numbers should match those give or take a bit. Would be nice if the system had a sight glass but without one you’ll be just fine as long as your numbers are close.

 

I actually had printed one but never even though to look at it until your post. Thanks

 

So my tips are:

When you push back the radiator to get the condenser out and you here a clanging sound. That’s the sound of the radiator bolts falling into the skid plate. Solution: Magnet zip tied to a painting stir stick.

Pay attention to your can tap: If it has a point for piercing cans you may need the blue adapter for the new cans they have now.

I had bought the adapter over the course of the winter but forgot I had it, My pointed can tap would only work in the exact spot by twisting is slowly while looking at my low side guage. That had me stumped. It never dawned on me until I was done and putting away my tools and found the blue adapter on my work bench.

 

Perhaps the humidity is higher now? It will make a difference in supply temp.