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New alternator

Discussion in 'X-Runners' started by Tac_XRunner, Oct 5, 2016.

  1. Oct 5, 2016 at 9:17 AM
    #1
    Tac_XRunner

    Tac_XRunner [OP] Member

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    Does anyone know the amperage of the alternator for the 2006 X-runner (no towing package)?

    The part number is TN10410-4230, but I cannot find it on Denso's website. I called Toyota even they cannot even pull up the numbers off the label. Toyota can sell me a refurbished alternator which is rated to 100A, but they want $350.

    Orielly's has two options: 90A for a manual trans, 100A for an auto trans for $145. Why does this matter? Autozone has one that is 100A with no differentiation between automatic and manual transmissions.

    I want to be 1:1 as close as possible, so I prefer to have one rated to 100A. Do I even need to worry about this auto vs manual business as long as both have the same bolt pattern (a whole 2 bolts)?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Feb 26, 2017 at 6:44 AM
    #2
    Sgt BadA

    Sgt BadA Active Member

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    Fort Worth TX
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    Icon 2.5 coilovers and Dakar leafs, caliraised ditch lights, TRD intake, 16x8 TRD Trail Team rims with 33in BFG KO2 tires
    90 amps is for the manuals because it doesn't require as much power since the transmission isn't electronically controlled. The 100 amp alternator is for trucks with an auto without tow package. There is a 130 amp option for trucks with automatic and tow package. 10 amps isn't going to make much of a difference in power. Unless you have a million lights going you won't need 100 amps
     
  3. Feb 27, 2017 at 1:54 AM
    #3
    TegoTaco

    TegoTaco Well-Known Member

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    I replaced mine with one off of a Tacoma with town package, 140 amps I believe.
     
  4. Sep 28, 2019 at 5:59 PM
    #4
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    I believe the 100 amp alternator to be a marketing gimick. I've tested several alternators with a 500 amp load tester and fluke amp clamp. Even with a weak battery with every accessory on a 30 amp alternator with a loose belt will do the job, maybe pulling 18-20 amps at the most. Of course if it's so loose it squeaks, it needs adjusting. I had one last week, the alternator was pushing over 18 volts after jump starting, didn't test amps, the battery was so far gone I could have had it connected to a rock with the same results. New battery, then charging volts normalized to 14.2. My old buick, was supposed to have a 100a alternator. When the time came, I replaced with whatever was cheaper, maybe 30 amp, I don't remember. I put a 100a load on it, I do remember it putting out more than what it was rated for, maybe 45 or so. Anyhow I tested the battery once a month for about 6 months to make sure it wasn't getting weak, it was fine. A quick easy way to test your battery, if you have a meter with a peak high and low hold setting. It's called starter voltage drop test. Connect the meter to your battery, set it for dcv peak low, start the engine. You want to see higher than 10.5v. That would be my old test version when alternators were set to 14.7v, now they come new set to 14.3v so I'm seeing on a brand new vehicle 10.3-10.2. Of course there's other common sense factors, you don't want walk up and test if its been sitting for 6 months. If your result is close, say 10.1 on a 5 year old battery, it's probably time to replace. If you get 10.1 on one that's fairly new, you might try driving around a bit and retest.
     

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