New amp, speakers, sub and head unit.

I appreciate any help in advance. As I gathered all my components for an install, I planned to run new speaker wiring. Not really an option due to obstructions in the conduit between the body and the doors. I’ve resigned myself to using factory wiring. Details below on the components I’m installing.

Question 1: to utilize the factory speaker wire harness is it best to tap into the wires in the iDatalink HRN-HRR-T02 harness with a 9 wire output from the amp? The iDatalink harness as it is configured will drive output to the speakers from the head unit.

Question 2: the front component speakers I have utilize 2 separate passive crossovers units - 1 for high and 1 for low. Can someone point me to a tutorial how I might incorporate these crossovers into the factory wiring. Btw, the crossovers are not integrated into the woofers and tweeters. I have a

$13 metra 72-8110 METRA - subaru/toyota 2008-up - speaker harness (72-8110)

metra 72-8110 harness I think should be used to get this done but I don’t know how.

Last question: is there a definitive list on this forum for all 3rd gen speaker wire colors and location?

Here’s what I’m installing in my 2016 TRD Sport non JBL
Kenwood 1057 head unit
Audio control 6x9 69cs front component set
Audio control 6.5 coaxial rear
Audio control LC-5.1300 amp.
Maestro RR2
iDatalink HRN-HRR-T02 Toyota specific
iDatalink ACC-HU-KEN1 Kenwood adaptor
Metra 72-8104 speaker harnesses
Metra 72-8110 speaker harness

 

it's not so much obstructions, it's just a tight fit through the door rubbers. still definitely possible though.

because you're replacing the head unit, the only real integration issue that requires the maestro is for the steering wheel controls. which is sort of a waste. also, i don't believe you really need the kenwood-to-maestro harness, because that won't have the steering wheel control integration within that harness. it should be a separate output from the maestro.

other than that, the maestro is intended to be a complete solution to installing only a head unit on the stock system, or maintaining the oem head unit with aftermarket output options. in this case neither is necessary. an argument could be made that steering wheel controls might be better implemented with the maestro, but that's really about it. personally, i use the metra axswc for the same purpose, though the integration options it offers takes a lot of fidgeting in the programming to properly set up--some of my steering wheel controls don't work exactly as they did, but the majority work as intended. it hasn't been worth my time to determine if it's a lack of the adapter, or an issue with my radio not knowing what to do with the signal. but the axswc is about $200 less. it just needs the backup camera harness, as that harness passes through the steering wheel wires, which get clipped and connected to the axswc.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPS88PZ?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K?ie=UTF8&th=1


as far as the front speaker connections, you'll end up connecting the crossovers in parallel, where the input for each crossover is 'Y' from each other. treat them as a single unit with two outputs.

if you still intend to use the crossovers off the factory wiring, they'll need to be connected at the tweeter location for access to the door woofer wiring. i would suggest continuing the run of new wire to the tweeter location from the amp instead of running it into the maestro harness, and then also using new wire for the tweeter installation. this way, the only connection to be used would be the woofer factory wiring, that's contained within the factory tweeter plug-- which you'd use the metra 72-8110 for. you just need to clip the loop, and use half of it (i don't know which wires are which though--one pair is the output from the radio, the other pair is the input to the door woofers).

you'll be roughly following this wiring conversion for that process


after that, it really just leaves going to the rear speakers. in that case, i would really recommend the metra 70-1761 harness-- the 2nd smaller 4-wire harness included in that kit is the rear speaker connections, which would connect to the plug at the radio location-- you'd just need the 72-8104 harness you already have at the rear door speaker location. otherwise, to use the maestro harness, you'll be cutting and splicing those same wires into the toyota-specific $80 harness.

 

Thanks for the recommendations on the alternative parts. I did however go with the Maestro because my truck is torn apart and I don’t have time to get new parts. I tapped into the speaker wires off of the Maestro harness. Expensive speaker harness but it’s working.

Your diagram for the crossovers helped me understand. Just need a picture some times.

I am going to power everything on tomorrow morning and get it all tuned.

Thanks for the assist.

 

I used a 2ft thick ZipTie to get new wiring from the cab through the factory harness, it really wasnt that difficult. used some alcohol on the Zip tie so that it slid through with wire taped to it. You will have a good sounding system based off your setup. I have the Morel 6x9 components but i left the rears factory for some fill. Running an AC L4.800 to the Morels and I'm still debating on what sub to go with. I also have a Kenwood headunit

 

I have been using my new system for about 10 days now. To my unrefined ears, the sound is great...and loud. I am using the DSP in the Kenwood head unit and everything sounds true for music I know well. I never realized how flat and dull sounding the stock head unit and speakers were. Also not originally listed, I installed an Audio Control 8" sub. That little sub is perfect for my purposes and that small truck cab.

I ended up using the stock speaker wiring and I can't detect any loss of quality. I am glad I did not go through the extra effort. This is a perfect setup for me.

 

@Cmudogtag Add some sound deadening to your doors and it will really come alive. Any pics of the AC 8'' behind the seat? Im looking for a sub option now but i have a 2nd gen 2010 DC.

 

I installed sound deadening on all doors and the back wall. The difference is noticeable with or without music on. Road noise is greatly reduced.

I have an access cab with the jump seats removed. I installed the sub in a small prefab box I got from Crutchfield. I attached it on the center console where the back seat belts used to be. I can post a photo later but probably not relevant for your truck.

 

Here’s a photo of the box and location I installed the AC 8 Spike sub. Like I said, I have an access cab so no seats to hide behind. This box fits the space I have just right.

 

Looks like a good fit for access cab.