New battery

Hey guys I have done some quick searching on here to see if I could find a thread to answer my question. I have an M8000 winch that I will be installing next week and I need to upgrade my battery. Im staying with a single battery and my boss was kind enough to give me Duralast Gold 800 CCA/1000 Cranking amps at 32 degrees F. The part number is a 78-DLG with a reserve capacity of 110. My question for you guys is will this batter be okay to put in the truck?

 

Does this battery come only with the side terminals ?
Or does it have primary top posts as well ?

I have the 34/78 and it comes with both terminals...
But the side terminals are fairly weak for winching loads.
And should never be used for winching or a heavy load.

Not sure about the 78's configuration tho'.
Thought the 78 was some sort of GM adaption.
So if it only comes with one set of posts...
I would guess they are durable enough for a heavy load ?


Since it's free... all that can happen is you kill the battery.
It's not going to hurt your e system and the alternator will charge it...
if that has you worried.

I cannot say how well the 78 might hold up to winching loads.


all battery risers (spacers) suck btw

I originally had a 34R RedTop in mine...
it came up short to the oem hold down...
and I will suspect, so does the 78

I modified my hold down to eliminate using a riser base...
as well as offer more support.





then modified it again to secure a 34/78 Yellow Top.

 

No it does not come with primary top posts. After reading what you posted I will be going with a battery that has the top posts that I will use for the winch leads and the side posts for the existing system. Does this sound okay to you? Just the numbers of the batteries confuse me so I don't know what they mean. I've been trying to research as much as I can.

 

I would use the primary terminal post(s)
for both winching and the primary e-system...

Most other lite aux. loads could be safely operated
off the less durable side terminals.

 

Okay I can do that. Do I need to modify the connections on any of the factory ends of the leads to be able to add the winch leads in or no? And that 78 battery I got for free is out of a Chevy 3500 so you are correct it is a GM thing.

 

You will need a way to attach addition loads to your posts. There are a bunch of terminals out there this is how I did mine, gives you 3 additional connection points.

 

I'd use marine terminals...

and depending on what battery... and terminal post locations...
you may need to extend for reach.

Tacoma have an uncommon battery post position
reversed for most common vehicles...

so... the 34/78's I use have the opposite terminal post placement.
It required extensions made for the + post.
And a longer - ground made for reach to the chassis.
^ this was so the battery's mounting position would reflect the correct terminal positions.
doing that will make for a further reach then when using the oem battery configuration.

Here's how I cheated on my extension of the + cable...

btw... that's a copper buss bar painted black (and after assembly)



still using the original - neg terminal...
tho' I have a marine terminal in wait...
had no real reason to change to that.

 

^ Thats a pretty nice cheater bus, good idea for stretching out the main.

 

Thanks... it's not terribly bling...
but does get the job done.

I even managed to come up with a rubber boot
protector for the + pos side terminal.
Covers up the terminal and buss bar for the most part.
(different then the one shown in the above pic)

No pictures yet... or I'd have posted that

 

Thanks guys your posts have been very helpful

 

^ good luck

had to post pictars of muh booties

OEM boot modified... but old as beans (falling apart)...




New boot... (black I know)
tho' I have both black and red...
chose to modify the black one first...
to be sure not to booger up the red one.

Fit so well... I just ignore it's not red

 

Thank you. I will have to be using my stock battery until I figure out exactly what I want to do.

 

Electric winching takes a heavy toll on car battery capacity, so winch for 60 seconds (approximately 10% of the battery capacity), recharge at high idle for five minutes, and repeat. The challenge with side mounted battery terminals is obtaining a good electrical connection for the winch cable terminals. Car batteries are designed for shallow high current discharges for up to 30 seconds and not a continuous high current discharge for 10 minutes.

 

good idea...

Since battery charging doesn't occur much at low/idle rpm...
and holding yer foot on the gas pedal for 5 min. would bring deh suck.

I recommend a simple tool ^ good idea to ramp up the rpm a little during the winching process, as well.

The oem alternator doesn't perform at full output...
until that is nearer to 1000 - 1,200 rpm.

^ Well... unless ya have a HO alt. with more power output at idle speed.

 

I am going to be installing the winch and bumper next Wednesday or Friday/Saturday so I will just wait until I have more money to buy a battery next week. I won't even be using the winch for a while probably other then once it's installed to break in the line.

 

I wouldn't even waste time using the steel cable...
if that's what it will come with.

Get synthetic rope...
and preferably a brand that is pre-stretched.
Then there is no break in period.

ie: masterpull super line (pre-heated and stretched by the mfg'r)

^ not all synthetic rope is treated using this process.

 

I don't have the money to upgrade to synthetic line right now. I just dropped 3300 on wheels tires and a lift and now 1450 on the all pro front bumper new IFS skid plate and the Warn M8000 winch. I will have to use the wire rope until I get enough money to upgrade.

 

I agree with this get some syn line I have had Viking line on mine for 5 years now and couldn't be happier..

 

Did you originally do this to stop the corrosion? B/C mine gets it under the hold down bar all the time. By the way you people have the cleanest batteries i have ever seen.

 

^ are you asking why I modified the hold down ?