New Bilstein 8112 Coilovers !

Right ? Save on bump stops, no need for a possible limit strap either. New hangers and a leaf pack and call it a day

 

There is never a substitute for a true hydro bump stop.
Even on a Trophy Truck, which runs big boy bypass shocks on all four corners (bypass shocks all have a "bump zone"), separate hydro bump stops are used in conjunction.
The valvling in your 2.0 or 2.5" hydro bump stop is going to be stiffer vs the primary valving in your bypass shock, even when it is in that "bump zone" of the shock. Also if you setup your bump stops correctly, they are usually mounted as close to the tire as possible. This means less "leverage" on them so they will work more effectively at slowing that wheel down during bottom out. That's why running your bump stops, midway, off your lower control arm, is less than ideal (how almost all taco owners set them up on their stock or LT A-Arms). On the front suspension it makes way more sense to have the bump stop hit right at the upper A-arms ball joint or uniball so it is as close to the tire as possible (requires a proper engine cage to mount it up tho).


Basically run both... separate bump stops and your 8112's , that's best.

 

Well I've officially go my toe in the B8 club, 8100's should be in within the next few days but the 8112's and the 650Lb spring set came in.


I was going to go with Deaver rear springs but went with Icon RXT instead.

These look pretty robust, can't wait to get 'em installed, gotta wait for the backs though...

 

Back shocks and shims are in, last piece of the puzzle (I hope) is the rear leafs which should be in next week...


With the external bypasses and those huge reservoirs these things look sick!

 

My Icon leaf pack hasn't arrived yet....

and I'm not installing the 8112's 'till this Thurs....

But I could not wait and installed the rear 8110's with just the stock leafs....

Holy Shit what a difference!

Even just on potholed roads the ride is sooooo much better, accelerating on a baffed out corner, or on a area where there were potholes after potholes... with old shocks rear tires were jumping and jouncing all over the place, now it like it's a normally smooth road.

I know I say roads for these comparisons so far but to put it in perspective... those lowered fart can muffler civics with 1" sidewall do not drive these "roads" twice.

I did not think, there would have been this huge a difference with the stock leaf pack still in it!

I had taken a Pro on a test drive a few months ago though the same area...
NOT EVEN CLOSE. Rear end was not as controlled or smooth as what I experienced today.
And I have not fiddled with the adjustments yet, that was how they came outa the box.

Not doing the "rail-road" crossing test while I have the Warn semi hidden bumper on, with the stock shocks, lol don't want to pop them or bottom out hard.

Of course we have a pic or two..

Old and "Busted" vs.the New hotness...


I didn't even bother taking the rear tires off when I did the install,
lol that would have tripled the work, of this easy install,
and it was starting to rain so I had to take a quick pic.


Oh I can't wait for the fronts to go on now!

 

Welcome to the club !

 

Wait till you put on the fronts.... amazing.

 

What springs are u gonna run with the 8112’s ? Are u running armor ?

 

I ordered the 53-291387 (650Lb) springs that are recommended for 80-140 Lbs weight on the front.

I noticed on the box they came it says they are for the 6112's also...

Springs have part # E4-FD1-Z562B00 pad printed on them as well as Bilstein F/Q.

Older ones I've seen had Bilstein E/V instead of the F/Q, don't know if that makes a difference.

I have the Warn Hidden Hitch bumper, and Pro skidplate , so about 100lbs over stock on the front,

Mobtown bolt on sliders will add to that though, I forgot what they weigh.

Back has the added weight of a backrack and a Retrax cover so lets say 150 Lbs...

I'll be adding more skid plates in the spring and then with the winch... we'll see if the 650#'s is enough.

I'll keep this thread updated.

 

Fronts are on...

Rear leafs will go in after I take some measurements on them..

Yeah, Amazing is a good word.

Balance, control, smoothness....

Puts this vehicle in a completely different snack bracket....

Need to take better pics,
measurements ...but I was having too much fun.

But the install went smooth.


Toyota Techs did a great job...

Even the Alignment, they hit the #'s I requested, dead on...


More "testing" this weekend.

But for off-road it's going to be no contest, not even fair, comparing to the Sport shocks...

On my to-do list is to test drive a Raptor and a Zr2 and see what my calibrated ass thinks...

 

Im that buddy!

 

Sheesh. Can’t wait to buy a pair of these when my truck is paid off. A year to go! All these pics are making me want so bad!

 

That's my plan too! I got two years payments left on mine, then I am gonna get these. Can't wait!

 

Waiting to get Deavers in the back once I pick up my GFC in a few months

 

Love the Bilstein coilovers, def my #1 choice if I had to purchase some.

If you added any amount of lift to your front end and did not replace your upper A-arms with aftermater ones, then your camber and caster profiles will be off as your suspension cycles . I'm sure the tech did 10/10 and aligned it perfectly at ride height, but if your tires move up or down (cycles, like hitting a bump or in a turn), it will gain or lose camber/caster differently vs when it was stock ride height. This might affect handle/ performance. The only way to rectify this is to change the genometry (new upper arms) or don't bother to lift it at all. This fact is missed by a lot of people who lift A arm trucks. It is particularly worse on tacoma A arms because toyota builds so much caster "gain" into the upper Arm (the pivot plane of the upper arm is at such a steep angle vs the pivot plane of the lower arm).

...basically you should get some aftermarket upper arms intended for "lifts" or spin down your coilovers spring until you are back at stock ride height. Who knows if you go back to stock ride height with these shocks you might actually like the stability better, because you have a bit more down travel.

 

So dumb question but has anyone adjusted the height of the coilovers once installed?

I've had adjustable coilovers in other vehicles but typically they have 3rings. I'm not sure if it's just Lefty on the top ring to lower and righty on the bottom to raise without any issues.

There's not much information on the web on these lol

 

I did... sorta...

There is a lot of tension on those springs. I would recommend adjusting them before the install using a high quality professional spring compressor.

Having said that, I went down to Lowe’s, bought some 300 lb zip ties, put a jack underneath the LCA and compressed the spring under the weight of the vehicle. I removed the tire and then I used 6 zip ties per spring. Then, I lowered the the LCA to full drop by blocking the frame. The spring wasn’t even close to being loose, but it did take some tension off allowing me to turn the race nut with the spacer wrench. I lubed the race, threads and contact points of the spring with oil. I also removed the bump stop and used a cheater bar. I was able to get four complete rotations until the tension on the spring made it very difficult to turn.

At that point I called it good! I locked everything down, re-compressed the spring, cut the zip ties, and re-installed the tire. I think I gained 1/2” or so with four rotations, but that’s off memory.

 

Ah poop, I guess I might rent a spring compressor then. Thanks for your insight!

I followed the install height instructions but since I have a dual battery set up I don't see the need of my driver side being an extra half inch higher for taco lean when the weight is already even-ish. I might just drop it an extra quarter inch and call it good.

 

In my experience, a rented spring compressor or home unit isn’t going to do it. The problem is the coils are too big and the spring is too tightly compressed for a DIY spring compressor.

You need a unit like this:



Using the process I described, you should be able to adjust or compensate for your unintended lean no problem