NEW Bolt In Dana 60 from East Coast Gear Supply

There’s some kind of jump the OBD2 terminals and push the brake pedal 8 times kind of thing to clear the ABS codes.

 

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

 

You can. It’s a great little tool.

 

I tried this and it worked just like the other reset. Got codes 33 and 34 of course. But like clockwork everything will work correctly until I reach 62 mph and it fails that internal system test and everything shuts off

 

Strange. Don’t know what to tell you.

 

What did ecgs say?

 

Been busy/lazy still havent called

 

Sounds like you still have a sensor / harness problem to me. Did you use OEM? I didn’t, but I’m just curious.

If you have access to a real scan tool, like the one I posted, it would be able to narrow the fault down to a more specific location.

 

Ill probably track down a scanner then. Aftermarket wheel sensors, oem harness. At least they work up to 62 mph so they are working

 

Yeah man. I don’t know enough about how that system works to be too much help to be honest. But getting a scanner on it is where I’d begin.

 

Installed the ECGS Dana 60 rear end 2 months ago and very happy with it so far.

ECGS was top notch with customer service and they went above and beyond to quickly resolve an issue with my front end (changed over to 4.88 gears so exchanged clamshells).

I also installed the StopTech disc brake kit (BBK in front as well). I was worried about DTC's regarding disabling the OEM traction control or braking system but ECGS assured me it would be compatible & it was. they even installed the rotor, caliper and emergency brake on the Dana 60 before shipping it.

The truck drives great, definitely feels heavier and the MPG's aren't great but its a truck. The reason I went for the Dana 60 bc I cracked the OEM rear axle housing messing around in the snow last year. My local garage welded it back to drivable but it needed to be replaced. Looks like the OEM rear axle housing is a weak link so took the opportunity to upgrade

 

https://jdfabrication.com/collections/05-15-6-lug/products/copy-of-full-floating-ford-9-axle

what about this

 

Definitely a solid rear axle and I was considering it. I went with the ECGS Dana 60 since it was more compatible with the OEM ABS using the SOSPerformance StopTech BBK kit/brake cylinder mod/emergency brake.

If my truck did more heavy off-road use the JDFab floating axle would be the way to go. It looks indestructible.

I have JDFab the 2.25" kit with LCA frame. They make some of the best kits out there.

 

My D60 should be showing up soon. The guys at ECGS told me I shouldn't need to shorten my driveshaft, but after reading through this thread and seeing all of the great info @HolyHandGrenade has put together, that may not be the case.

@Jrgymie did you wind up shortening your driveshaft too?

 

I have HHGs D60 now. I did not have to shorten my driveshaft but I am a DCLB if that matters. I did clock the ABS sensors to be at the back out of harms way but it screwed up the hall affect sensor. I had to put them back as they are arrayed in the stock axle setup. Not a big deal at all. I do run the SOS rear disc setup with parking brake option also.

 

Nice, thanks for the heads-up.

 

Looks like I'm also good to go with my stock driveshaft. 8-in e-locker axle centerline to u joint center was only 9/16" shorter than the D60.

After fighting those damn drum brakes again, I'm petty pissed I didn't opt for the disc brake conversion like you smarter folks

 

Haha. Well you can always swap out later, pretty easy to do without the parking brake. I have one very valuable lesson with the parking brake plates that kicked my ass for months.

 

I like having a parking brake, so I'll definitely opt for it when doing the conversion later this year.

What happened with yours?

 

I will detail it out tonight. I have my 90 year old mother in law duties at the grocery store and shopping now.