New brakes just as bad as before

Hello, so I just replaced my pads and rotors, and before the rotors were pitted, and pads sluffed off material just by rubbing your hand over them. Is there anyway to improve these brakes either the front or back, in order to have safer driving? The new pads and rotors are less than a month old since I installed them. Thanks

 

TBU

 

You don’t state what the current issue you are having. If mushy try bleeding/flushing the fluid.

 

Harder to push down relative to other trucks/vehicles and inferior stopping distance

 

Tundra brake upgrade is a popular modification people do to these trucks to improve braking. Personally I never thought the brakes on these trucks were that bad but a lot of people do the tundra brake upgrade to help.

 

Installing stainless steel brake lines helps, too

 

Bleeding/flushing made a difference. Then adjusting the rear so the brake shoes were actually working was another benefit too. There is a link in my signature with info about brake bleeding.

Are you running oversized tires, lifted, or carrying a lot of extra weight?

 

If you're asking how to maintain them, just be easy on them. No running up to a red light at 65 mph & smashing on the brakes. Not sure what you're really asking? My brakes usually last 60k+.

 

Oh, I see... Try driving a International Scout or a Chevy Luv truck, lol! Try flushing the brake lines completely. Replace all hydraulic cylinders, about all you can do.

 

1990ish Ford Escort (USA version). My GF had one, had to put my foot through the floor board to get it to stop.

 

I've never noticed an inferior stopping distance (even when I was towing my old 2500# popup trailer with no trailer brakes, and I just have your normal every day replacement rotors and pads with 32" E rated all terrains. Methinks you gots something wrong.

Have your brakes always felt like this or is it something new and what prompted you to replace the rotors and pads?

What's the brake fluid look like? I would try bleeding them (or having them bled if that's something you're not comfortable with). Other things to check are your brake proportioning valve (BPV) and if it's functioning, and your rear brakes.

Have you lifted it? If so, and you haven't done anything to the BPV then that could be your problem too.

The Tundra brake upgrade is a popular upgrade, but honestly isn't necessary unless you've got big tires (33's+) or have your truck weighted down with hundreds of pounds of tools or overlander junk.

 

Yes, this is another thing.

If you don't ever use your E-brake, your rear brakes never get adjusted. So... use your e-brake so your rear brakes work.

 

How do you know the stopping distance is inferior? If you're able to lock up your wheels at all, or trigger ABS if you have it, then your brakes aren't the problem, suspension and tires are. I'd be really surprised if this was the case.

Note that all brakes feel differently. Going from one truck to another almost guarantees that you're going to think the brakes suck on one of them because it's a near certainty that one will be more sensitive than the other. Takes a few days for the feeling to go away.

 

Brake booster working properly?
Pump the brakes engine off until pedal is hard. Hold your foot on the brake and start the engine. Pedal should go done 1.5 to 2 inches.

 

When my rotors went out of min spec at about 130k, I replaced with Centric pads and rotors. Lines flushed, new fluid.

Altogether a different truck after that, barely had to touch them to get what I needed.

And yes, check the adjustment on your BPV if you have lifted your truck at all.

 

So what rotors and pads did you replace with? Were they some generic autozone pad/rotor? Have to understand what was done/used before trying to diag...

I ask this because I used some cheap napa re-branded pads on the wife's car (shhhhh...) - talk about lack of pedal and just felt way different. Those didn't stay on long at all.

Have you tried bleeding the system?

 

Oh, one more item comes to mind - unless you used Akebono or a pad that doesn't require it, did you do a proper break-in on the pads?

 

Excellent point Mike and something that is often overlooked.

 

^Yes, definitely a break in period is necessary.^ He's saying it's harder push down, so usually that eliminates air/moisture in the lines.

 

Stock tire size, a little bit of tools in the bed, and a 2.5 inch lift. I got the best brakes that autozone had, seeing as I needed them soon. I replaced after the squealing started. Mechanic said brakes don’t need bled. I will do the brake booster trick. I rarely use parking brake. I am able to skid when I had to brake to avoid a deer. It’s certainly functional, but the amount of stopping power is sub par to what I would ideally like it to be. Shop said brake fluid was fine and lines had no air in them. I am not aware of a “ break in” pads. What does that detail? I also am gentle on my brakes generally instead of smashing them.

Edit: I’m not really bothered by the force needed to depress the pedal, but rather the power of the brakes