New clockspring was missing a plug, but everything works?

Many thanks!

I've got lots of ribbon cable replacement experience and I could not figure how the ABS was associated with the clock spring.

 

I believe the older models had a separate abs gear where you had to be careful about the spacing/distance from the bearing. On the 2013, the abs ring is built into the rear of the bearing unit. It's the dark ring in the rear view of the unit below.

 

You're a saint! So, just the bearing, retainer, and seal. Got it. Thank you so much

 

I just replaced the wheel bearings on my truck. I opted to have the machine shop remove and press on new bearings. If there was an issue with the ABS, it would be on the shop to repair the mistake. It's so easy to remove the axles/bearings it made no sense to worry about messing up the job. It was an extra $150 for them to do the bearing work.

 

I'm having the same deal going on with my 3rd gen right now. C1404 being thrown. Nice thick black gunk with some specks of metal shavings.

Even if I unplug the wiring both wiring harnesses, I'll still get C1404 ('Malfunction in Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit') along with C1407 and C1408 for open or short in the circuit.

Based on both of these it's got to be a bad wheel bearing, right? I'll check voltages at the pigtails in the AM, but seems like I've got the wheel bearing blues.

 

Given what I've learned recently, and the trash I see on your sensor like on mine, I'd wager a yes. Seems like a bearing to me

 

When I did mine, I got the following new just because at 140K+ why put old rusty parts back in?

Driveshaft seal @ the axle housing (DEFINITELY get this new)
Retainer (Requires new)
Axle washer (not required to be new, but they're cheap anyway)
Serration Bolts and nuts (see below about this)
Snap ring (supposed to be new, which I did, but like I said earlier, i believe a lot of people reuse)

So about the serrated bolts and keps nuts. I got new ones because 'why reuse old rusted ones.' It was a good thing I got them ahead of time. Two of the bolts were so corroded into the assembly that it would not come out with the factory recommended method of just pounding them out with a hammer. It also wouldn't come out with a 20 ton press. I had to use a grinder with a cutting wheel and cut into the assembly where the bolts are to get below the corroded section, then use an air hammer with a punch bit to drive them out.

 

Where did you source all your parts? The dealership just gave me a quote that required me to change my pants. Almost $600 for the parts to do this job - that's robbery.

I was looking at a Timken bearing on Rock Auto -https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2013,tacoma,4.0l+v6,3015100,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672

part 512294 . But I haven't been able to source the retainer or snap ring or seal yet.

 

Most likely that dealership will send the axles to the same machine shop that you would have taken the axles if you did the job yourself.

You are paying so much because the dealership will have your truck on the hoist waiting for the axles to come back. Call it hoist rent.

When I did mine, I dropped the axles off at my machine shop. They supplied all the parts and labor.

I got both axles, new pads and rotors for $750. (Tundra, it's the same except having rotors instead of drums).

 

I was gonna do the work myself! I got a quote of $575 JUST FOR THE PARTS for ONE side! I damn near died. I wanted to use OEM, because I figured 1. they'd be in stock and 2. OEM is decent stuff. NOPE

 

I figured if OEM was better, why did it fail?

the machine shop used Moog bearings and they have been fine for 20k miles.

 

I think they're asking you to do a little more than change your pants...maybe change your pants "after?" That sounds more like a price if THEY are going to do the repair? Or maybe they are including the price of the OEM bearing (which is pretty pricey)?

I got the bearing itself from 1a (I recall it was in the neighborhood of $60 shipped), but some don't want to go that route. Timken is a good branded part, and usually use Koyo bearings in the assembly.

For the axle seal, serrated bolts/nuts, new circlip, and retainer, etc. I just ordered them from Conicelli. Even though you have to add shipping, it was still a couple bucks cheaper than getting them from my local dealer at msrp.

Conicelli's prices were as follows (at the time about couple months ago):
Axle Seal - $6.45
Snap Ring - $2.35
Retainer - $21.70 (other than the bearing, the most expensive part)
Serration Bolt - $1.71 each (x4)
Nuts - $1.04 each (x4)
Oring (the giant one that goes on the axle tube around the seal) - $3.02
Washer (which you don't HAVE to replace, but it's so cheap, why not) - $3.82

I even ordered the infamous paper drum gasket since it's only $1.71

So about $60 including shipping.

 

Well, I have to give credit where credit is due. The OEM bearing I'm replacing lasted 7 years and 235k miles. And the diff is prolly full of sludge from being underwater and never having fluid changed. And, I have been running 33s for a long time. They're tuff, IMO. But not $500 tough. I can replace it 5 times for that.

I found everything I wanted at the machine shop for like $200 so I went with it. I could press it in and out myself but they are set up for it and can do it way faster without having to make a jig like I'd have to do. Pulling the axle today to carry down there.

Thanks guys

 

I got the ebay tool for pressing for the following reasons:

It is still a valid argument that I can make to my wife that it's cheaper than someone else doing it, thereby increasing what will eventually be my estate of tools.
I can use it on the other side when it will (eventually) be needed. So once I (eventually) do the other side, that cuts my tool cost in half.
My welding sucks, so I likely would NOT have been able to create a tool of such quality
Along with the above statement, I'm lazy enough that I would not want to source the materials.

The bearing was already making noise on my (new to me) 2013 at 142k miles, so I don't know at what mileage it actually went bad - but I do know it's the factory bearing, and the truck itself was just used as a fleet vehicle delivering parts. On top of that, based on the condition of the frame, it's a high likelihood that it was not used when it snowed - it's 2wd, and it was used by a NAPA store in upstate NY.

 

Do you have the part# for the serration bolts and nuts?

 

90114-A0009 Serration Bolt
90178-A0052 Nut

Note - most sites appear to name the nut as "Strut Mount Nut," because it's the same part. The part numbers are directly from parts.toyota.com

 

Alright so I'm really lucky I didn't run the wheel off. Half the balls in the bearing were metal shrapnel. I can't believe it held together. Impressive, really

Axle is back together, new brakes on both sides. For the first time in 3 years I don't have any lights on the dash. It's a miracle

 

Thank you very much.