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New clutch

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by sk8rjess, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. sk8rjess

    sk8rjess [OP] bonafide

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    at 200k on my stock clutch it's finally starting to slip.
    i think i'm going with a marlin 1200 clutch but it doesn't include the throwout bearing so i have to find one of those.
    anyone that's done this, did you replace the flywheel?
     
  2. TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    stock.....for now...
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  3. sk8rjess

    sk8rjess [OP] bonafide

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    ah i didn't know that. cool. i was going to do a rear main but when i called marlin he said if it's not leaking don't touch it. i know i have a seal leaking on the motor somewhere because it leaks oil i'm just not entirely sure where.
     
  4. TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    hmmm...I would replace it...Your luck you will do the clutch and the seal will start leaking.

    I'm all about prophylactic maintenance.
     
  5. maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Marlin if it ain't broke don't fix it.
     
  6. Tacomanater

    Tacomanater Well-Known Member

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    While it ain't broke don't fix it- is a great motto, since the clutch will be out, the cost to replace the seal, for assurance purposes, is cheap....should you need to do it later, you will pay dearly. Why not do it while it is exposed/super easy access? My .02

    As for the flywheel, you could have the old one machined, if there is any irregularities. I replaced my clutch, pilot bearing/throwout bearing and slave cylinder...didn't need to touch the flywheel and all is good.... real good. Save the flywheel $$$ and do the seal.
     
  7. Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    I think it's more for the fact that it's a good OEM seal and should last. Not common to start leaking. Replacing it with a non OEM part is a down grade to me...that's what I be marlin is saying.
     
  8. tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I never met a flywheel that I didn't replace.

    Won't know until you get your eyes on it though.
     
  9. maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Don't trust machine shops? They have thousands of dollars invested in machines just for that purpose.
     
  10. maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    How sure are you that you got that seal in exactly straight? Modern seals should out last the engine.
     
  11. gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    Metal clad rear main engine oil seals harden after time . They are easy to install providing you pack them with grease during install . I would also check the crankshaft for seal groove . You could always get a speedy sleeve . Purchase and OEM seal .
    The flywheel should " Always be machined " as they dish over time . A straight edge will show how bad it is .
     
  12. TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    I'm not sure how you can think a rubber seal can outlast a motor....rubber will eventually harden and crack and leak.

    Plus, remember you are in the first gen section...many of our trucks are approaching 20 years old.

    Lets say I do my clutch this year, being a 1997 (produced in 1996) that means the seals and gaskets in my truck are going to be 18 years old.

    So The way I see it, not replacing an 18 year old seal would be stupid when you have it all apart to do it.

    The OP's truck is an 02...so that means his seal is 13 years old....
     
  13. tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    Every flywheel I've taken in they say is too far gone. Not sure what their thousand dollar machines can fix when there isn't enough material...

    It kind of sucks when you're counting on that machine shop to push it out in a couple hours and you find out you have to wait for a new flywheel to come in.

    As I said, won't know until you get actual eyes on the flywheel. So I've learned to just replace them.
     
  14. sk8rjess

    sk8rjess [OP] bonafide

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    so i'll do the seal too it's sounding like.
    and the flywheel.

    now i'm considering the URD stage 2 or 3 for the 3rz but leaning more towards the stage 2.
    pros and cons anyone?
    for the next few months it's my DD but when i do wheel(try to a few times a month) it's usually hard wheeling.
     
  15. TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    I have no opinions on those other clutches. Just make sure you use a quality throw out bearing. And use an OEM rear main seal.
     
  16. Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Just remember a 6 puck style clutch engages hard...like an on off switch..and its nosiey.

    I wouldn't get a super heavy duty one. A little over stock will be nice but i wouldnt go super heavy as it'll be hard to drive around town...well..not hard..but more of a pain.
     
  17. tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I very much enjoy my Marlin Crawler supplied clutch kit. It has held just fine in the off-roading I've done.
     
  18. sk8rjess

    sk8rjess [OP] bonafide

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    hmm. ill call URD on monday when i'm ready to order. does this look like a rear main seal issue? (ain't it purdy?)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. 2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma Well-Known Member

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    rear main seal would leak oil inside the bell housing which is bolted to the motor. Oil runs down so it would leak out of the hole at the bottom of the bell housing in picture 2. I do not think that is a rear main seal leaking. I could be wrong though.
     
  20. Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yes it does.
     
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