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New D Rings Available

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 4x4runner2002, Apr 30, 2010.

  1. May 5, 2010 at 12:04 PM
    #21
    4x4runner2002

    4x4runner2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is the update for new d rings available.
    They worked perfectly. I took the washers off, slid the new d rings on and then the washer back on and bolted down.



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  2. May 5, 2010 at 12:07 PM
    #22
    Outlaw

    Outlaw Well-Known Member

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    Water Pump, Timing Belt, Sparkplugs, Plastidip Grill emblem
    Awesome! Glad it worked.
    thanks for the update!
     
  3. May 5, 2010 at 12:13 PM
    #23
    rogerkamp8817

    rogerkamp8817 Well-Known Member

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    just ordered 4 and a 50 cal ammo box to use a little tool box from these guys.
     
  4. May 5, 2010 at 12:32 PM
    #24
    mkZero

    mkZero Well-Known Member

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    sweet, I need to get some of these. :)
     
  5. May 5, 2010 at 12:50 PM
    #25
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    back to bone stock.
    thanks!! i just ordered a pair. i am just adding a set to the front of the box. i got a bike to move!

    cheapness counts!! love it.
     
  6. May 5, 2010 at 12:52 PM
    #26
    WATacoRider

    WATacoRider Well-Known Member

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    awesome, glad they worked out. Do they pivot by any chance?
     
  7. May 5, 2010 at 12:57 PM
    #27
    mws4ua

    mws4ua I'll try being nicer if you try being smarter.

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    Just ordered 4. Thanks!
     
  8. May 5, 2010 at 1:27 PM
    #28
    4x4runner2002

    4x4runner2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    no they dont pivot but i dont need them to i just move motorcycles and seem strong enough to hold at any angle when bolted down
     
  9. May 5, 2010 at 9:12 PM
    #29
    ToucanV13

    ToucanV13 You think I was rollin out here naked?

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    285/70 Hankook AT-M, Window vents, TRD CAI, TRD Cat-back exhaust with WickedFlow can, AFE Throttle Body Spacer, Billy 5100 @ 2.5 and 1" block rear, RBP nerf bars, Halo HIDs, 20% tint up front
    Awesome find! :thumbsup:
     
  10. May 6, 2010 at 4:07 AM
    #30
    kris77

    kris77 Born in the Backwoods

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    anybody know how to get free shipping from these guys...Its outrageous...
     
  11. May 6, 2010 at 8:17 AM
    #31
    OH-MAN

    OH-MAN Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered some.
    Thanks for the heads up!!
     
  12. May 30, 2010 at 6:30 PM
    #32
    mkZero

    mkZero Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered 4 :)
     
  13. May 31, 2010 at 1:12 PM
    #33
    mws4ua

    mws4ua I'll try being nicer if you try being smarter.

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    I'm finally getting around to putting these in my bed, and I can't get the damn bolts to budge. Anybody have any advice?
     
  14. May 31, 2010 at 1:18 PM
    #34
    4x4runner2002

    4x4runner2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I used a 2 foot breaker bar and a little muscle, two were really tight and two were snug...good luck
     
  15. May 31, 2010 at 1:23 PM
    #35
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    X2.
     
  16. May 31, 2010 at 1:27 PM
    #36
    ppham444

    ppham444 Well-Known Member

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    Good stuff! I've just had two situations where I wish there were tie-down in the front part of the bed. These will come in handy and way cheaper than OEM tie-downs! Thanks OP!
     
  17. May 31, 2010 at 1:29 PM
    #37
    TicTacOma

    TicTacOma UnderWater Monopoly Champion

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    It's all in my head at the moment...

    Drive to Idaho! You're embarrassing you and us with your cheapness. I got two newer style fatties and 10 of the original/smaller ones for $22 and something shipped.

    I just install the two fatties by using the bed bolts and used the smaller ones they offer under the bed rails/tracks. Just remove the Torx 30 bolt from the rear most part of the side rail (have to pop that plastic cap off, just squeeze) Then I tucked the D-ring under the rail and slid the bolt back in (used blue thread lock) through the rail hole and D-ring hole. Looks like it was made to fit there. Cranked it down and Viola'. Now, You aren't mooring the Queen Mary but they are solid and make for a quick bungee hook or for a cargo-net hook up. Also pulled one of the Torx 30 bolt from the cargo box/cubby trim and used one on each side there too. So I have 4 towards the back of the bed and now need to use some on the tool box.
     
  18. May 31, 2010 at 1:40 PM
    #38
    mws4ua

    mws4ua I'll try being nicer if you try being smarter.

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    ^^^Pics of that setup would be great.
     
  19. May 31, 2010 at 2:12 PM
    #39
    TicTacOma

    TicTacOma UnderWater Monopoly Champion

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    It's all in my head at the moment...
    100_0223.jpg

    100_0224.jpg

    100_0225.jpg

    It's pretty self explainatory though. Just think about what you would need to do to remove the rail/track frm the inside bedside. Pull the bolt, slide the d-ring plate up in between the bedrail and the bedside. Think of the bedrail and the bedside as the bread and the d-ring plate as the balony and make your sandwich. Shove the d-ring plate up till you match the two holes up and then put the bolt back into the hole and tighten. Simple simple.
     
  20. May 31, 2010 at 2:14 PM
    #40
    TicTacOma

    TicTacOma UnderWater Monopoly Champion

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    It's all in my head at the moment...
    For the BED BOLTS, not the rail bolts....You may be able to double up on the washers or a smaller spacer 'tween the d-ring and the bolt head and the bed surface. It'll still tighten down but allow the d-ring to pivot. I don't see a need, the d-rings have a large ring and it will flip 180 flat to flat.
     

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